Overheating issues...

[Blee1099]

I went ahead and merged the two threads together.. Hopefully the waterpump will do the trick.. The more I think about it, I would have to agree on the water pump.. Since it runs hotter than normal all the time, I suspect it..

 

[StillKicken]

How old is your pump. Lots of time that I have seen problems here (where there wasn't obvious noise or leaks) is that the impeller blades have worn or disintegrated or are spinning free of the drive shaft.

So can a water pump go bad and not be leaking out of the weep hole? Is this just if the bearings go out?

Last Friday, I left work and there was a LOUD squeel coming from under hood when going from 25-50mph. Lasted all the way home. Thought was the belt. Checked belt tensioner and all pulleys. Nothing. Next day, on way to folks house to redo radius arm bushings, still did it, but not half as loud. On the way home and since...it has not done it. Would this be the noise?

 

[shamaal]

True logically the water pump, given the problem variables.

I've never seen the impellers broken, but it could happen. When checking for correct tstat operation, I pinch the upper hose, when firm I know it's open because I can feel the increased pressure from the pump. Would this test help?

 

[budwich]

In the pump that I saw on my chrylser a long while ago, the impellers were worn such that the cavity that they are turning in was basically "way too big"... that is there was lots of space between the walls and the blades. I figure that alot of the water was just bypassing the impellars and not going anywhere and that the pressure was significantly lower than the normal operating mode.

I have also seen a pump where the blades spun free from the shaft... not sure how it happened but as a result it provided little or no circulation.

The weep hole is basically there to detect bearing and seal problems. The noise you are hearing might be your pump or the idler pulley which seems to be a common noise problem. Take your belt off and turn the various pulleys by hand. Feel for roughness, movement of bearing and such. Listen for any squeeks. Sounds like you might have found your problem.... let's hope so.

 

[StillKicken]

Will post again in a couple weeks if it doesn't become too much of a proplem. Sorry so long, but I work a lot...have drill this weekend...then work a lot more. Probably be about 2 weekends. Thanks all.

Good luck slravene!!

 

[slravene]

What about when you sit still? Does it run hot in your driveway with the AC on? Have you checked your fluids so see it any of them are running low? (Oil, Water) You should check to see if your radiator is blowing compression. If so, you got a blown head gasket. If not...then I don't know what to tell you. I guess go get you a small Electric fan off a Honda or a Toyota and see if that does the trick. That's what I did for my friends big block bronco. I've got one or two you can have I think. I live in Greensboro. PM if you want 'em.

Are those fans to replace the stock fan? Or to put on the front of the radiator to help out the stock one on the rear?

Im really hoping the water pump does the trick...

I dont know about it running hot in the driveway...ive never let it sit long enough to do it. I dont think its the head gasket, im not leaking any fluids, the motor still runs like a champ, and the oil has no water in it. I am gonna take it by a shop of a friends in the morning to see if he can help out.

 

[slravene]

OK...wtf...

Replaced the Water pump with a new one, and now the piece of crap gets dangerously hot within 5 min of sitting in the driveway....The problem just mutiplied by like 100 times. The old water pump would basically spin free of any resistance. Both sides spun, but without any resistance...so i thought that would have fixed my problem... I am officially stumped, and I guess ill go tear it back down and do it all again to make sure i didnt mess something up.

Possible my thermostat (new one) is bad out of the box? Would that cause it?

EDIT: Went back through and re-burped the system and it didn't rapidly overheat the second time...so THAT is fixed....but then i drive it and its still doing the steady climb to danger. So my original problem is still there....I have basically replaced all but the radiator and havent fixed the demon. Back to the chopping block.

 

[shamaal]

One thing before you tear it apart. Pinch the upper hose where it comes out of the engine when cold. This is how it feels when the thermostat is closed and you can't feel the pressure from the pump.

Next start the engine, let it warm up where the thermostat should be open. While the engine is running (careful), pinch the hose again it should be noticeably harder.

If there is no difference, then there is no coolant going through the engine, broken thermostat, broken pump, large chunk of a gasket engine blocking the flow, whatever. Operation without the thermostat eliminates that as the problem.

If you have flow, then the heat is not being removed, this could be engine generating more heat than designed (unlikely, you'd notice a gasket blown that bad) or a bad removal system - bad radiator, bad fan, etc. I know everything has been replaced, but it's not possessed :fire:

The last possibility is that the gauge/sender is really goofy and it's not really hot at all.

 

[dman726749]

it seems like there is alot of this going around lately...i am having the same problems, but i dont think to the same degree...mine goes up when i accelerate onto the inerstate, then cools right back off, and runs fine all the otehr times....replaced everything but the pump and rad.......i have almsot given up

 

[slravene]

ok, i took it over to my friends shop and used the laser to detect temps. 191-192 at the top and bottom of the radiator..and about 230-232 at the housing around the thermostat. It didnt ever boil over sitting at the shop running for over an hour. Took it for a drive and it again slowly climbed to hot. Boiled over when i turned it off at home.

Ordered a 160 degree thermostat to put in there (at the advise of the mechanic) and see if that changes anything. It should get here saturday.

 

[slravene]

another thought...

Would the moving down of the fan shroud with the body lift have anything to do with it? There is now a 2 inch gap between the bottom of the radiator and the fan shroud. Could this be the cause for the heating or is that gap not substantial enough to cause worry?

 

[dman726749]

another thought...

Would the moving down of the fan shroud with the body lift have anything to do with it? There is now a 2 inch gap between the bottom of the radiator and the fan shroud. Could this be the cause for the heating or is that gap not substantial enough to cause worry?

i had this same thought today as i was looking at my truck, and trying to solve basically the same problem....i trimed the shround around the drain plug, and then secured it tight to the rad in hopes that this will work, havent had it out to test it, but it only took 10 min to fix.

 

[slravene]

yea, i need to trim mine and pull it tight to the radiator too...but i was more concerned with the gap at the very bottom where it hangs down below the radiator.

let me know if it helps

 

[Van]

Partially clogged radiator?

The radiator may be partially clogged. You may need to have it rodded or replaced.

 

[Billy177]

Is the check engine light on at all, a problem that can cause a lean condition or a situation where the computer will retard the timing can have an effect on engine operating temprature, I would try cleaning the mas air sensor, it may not seem relivant although there is a chance that it will help.

 

[dman726749]

yea, i need to trim mine and pull it tight to the radiator too...but i was more concerned with the gap at the very bottom where it hangs down below the radiator.

let me know if it helps

didnt help

 

[slravene]

i was thinking...shouldnt the temperature read different at the top and bottom of the radiator? Since they are both reading the same doesnt that mean the water isnt getting cooled off correctly?

 

[slravene]

bump...anyone know? ^

 

[ma96782]

Haven't tried a measurement myself...........But, IMHO...........logically.........it should be different.

Aloha, Mark

 

[budwich]

slravrene... don't have an answer to your question about temp difference top and bottom... there might be some but probably pretty uniform at "running temperature" and your 192 seems to indicate that (ie. that your thermostat is open and hopefully probably circulating.

I was away a bit and this thread got some what confusing with your "tests". I have a few questions. You took out your thermostat. Result no difference.... right? Then, you replaced your water pump... but made a "funny" statement about the "both sides spun freely" (or something like that).... what does this mean?... you were able to turn the propellers on one side while hold the pulley / shaft on the other (ie. the propellers spun independant of the drive shaft???) or you mean that it spun "smoothly without resistance" which it should in "open to the air" operation.
Finally, you indicated that you were going to get a 160F thermostat and see if that helped. Forget that for now.... with your new pump in, take all / any thermostat out. Does your problem change? If not putting a 160 in isn't going to help.

Very tough.... With all the stuff that you have done, if your condition still exists without a thermostat, there appears to still be a clog somewhere... hopefully not in the block but as suggest a few posts back, in the rad... depending on how old it is and whether only distilled water has been used, a rodding or new rad might be in order.

If you are getting boil over then its likely that you do indeed have a "hot" issue... but trying to localize it, is a real problem.... sorry not much more to add.