P0138 - O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2

[peterk9]

ford police interceptor bank 1 sensor 2 - Google Search

 

[bhmayor]

ford police interceptor bank 1 sensor 2 - Google Search

Well apparently Amazon agrees with Ford. Thank you - that is absolutely informative.
I never even thought to look for auto parts on Amazon! However, I will point out that the particular part you found does not fit the 2015 FPIU 3.7 Flex engine. I looked up at the top and it said that in red, I made sure to select my car and it was the wrong part. However, what they said and what Ford said about the orientation of the sensors was in agreement.

In the end - I got the part for $25 inclusive of S&H delivered to my door via eBay.

All of this "do it myself thinking" caused me to forget (and very recently remember) that there is a very reasonable Meineke Muffler shop near me that will put parts on to cars at very low rates (you need to bring your own part) and be willing to come in at a time when they usually have no people in the shop (not Monday or Friday, but during the week and you might wait a little bit). I also happened upon another shop closer to my house that would put parts on for me as well (for a bit less).

In the end, I was able to order the part online for $25 and change including S&H and then had the oil change place closer to my house do it for me for $50 total (no tax). Thus, for $75 total I got this issue eliminated.

I also learned something else...my car being a 2015 has both "pending codes" and "permanent codes". A pending code can be erased with a scan tool, a permanent code however is NOT really permanent! It stays in the ECM until such time as the ECM determines the problem has stopped occurring and then removes the permanent code on its own (my scanner can show both pending and permanent codes, and specifies which each is). Eventually the permanent codes went away and all my emissions indicators returned to green and I am good now.

I set the jack stands high enough to have room to be able to use my breaker bar to remove the part, however, the jack I had was not able to jack the car up high enough to get it onto the jack stands at the higher height. So, unless I wanted to spend $85 on a jack instead of $50 at a shop, I gave up and let a shop do it. I will try to fix my car again in the future, I just know when its time to give up now.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice.

 

[bhmayor]

All readers,

I had intended to post a close out and follow-up to all of this but did forget.

In the end I could not jack the car up high enough to get enough torque to remove the bad sensor. I returned all the tools I "rented" and bought. I went to an oil change and service shop (they do basic repairs). They charged me $50 and said they'd check the old sensor and verify it was bad and put the new one on if so. The service manager said he knew how to use a volt meter and some heat from a blow torch to test the sensor. They ended up putting my new part on it and they even road tested the car, reset the codes and explained my drive cycle to me and what the difference between a pending and permanent code was. In the end, I drove the truck a few weeks and all the I/M sensors went green (I purchased a good code scanner, specifically the Autel 539B). I would have to say that between explanations and putting the device on and the road test these folks spent two hours on me and my car for $50! I will definitely use this shop again in the future they really, really cared and took the time to treat me well.

When I first walked into the shop I had almost finished cup of black coffee from Starbucks and asked the receptionist where I could toss it out and she had me dump the black coffee and toss the cup in a trash can outside. When the shop manager called me to tell me my O2 sensor was really bad and he was going to put the new one on (as well as explaining a lot of other stuff to me), unprompted, the receptionist came marching over and said, here is hot cup of black coffee for you!

In the end, the entire repair cost me $75 total for parts and labor, so I got off easy and I now have a really nice shop I can use for basic repairs.

Thanks.

 

[imp]

Since the 5g explorer uses a transverse mounted engine, there isn't really a driver or passenger side to the engine. You may want to explain it in terms of engine orientation (from front or rear of engine) as I am sure someone is bound to get confused.

On explorer, bank 1 is near firewall and bank 2 is near radiator.

As for the op, you shouldn't be paying $300 for an O2 sensor. They are $35-70 from rockauto. Depending on your mileage, you may want to change all of them. You can swap them around, to see if you can isolate the problem, just be careful that you don't damage them when doing so. Once you factor in the time to do that and retest, you may find it easier to just replace them.

I figgered EVERYBODY knows the sides of the banks after 80 years of seeing them longitudinally.

 

[Big Sky]

I now am getting the P0138 O2 sensor bank 1 code on our Explorer Sport. The dealer said its the sensor after the cat. Does anyone know which side of the 3.5 Ecoboost engine is bank 1? Is it the firewall side?

 

[peterk9]

Yes. Your post has also been merged with this thread found with the Forum's 'Search' feature.

Peter

 

[Big Sky]

Yes. Your post has also been merged with this thread found with the Forum's 'Search' feature.

Peter

Thank you!