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P0731 and opinions.

66stingray

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February 28, 2014
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Mountaineer
So my transmission gave at 127,000 back in 2013. I went ot my local Aamco in Point Pleasant nj and got mine overhauled, with a reman TC, servo bores, etc... , settled on a 1 year warranty instead of the 3 due to a $900 difference. As a side note when I went to pick up the car it had a deep gash on the drivers side door. Didn't bother to tell me until I pointed it out to the manager. He graciously decided to give me a touch up bottle and extended the warranty to 15 months and 15,000 miles. Total price out the door a ltiitle over $3,000.

Fast forward to now, od light blinking, check transmission message on dash. Resets everytime I turn the car off and comes back on after driving. Seems to shift fine, no jerkiness, and gets into 5th at speed. I dont have a scanner that reads codes. The transmission is out of warranty being that its 17 months after the rebuild. Take it to Stealership to scan and I got the p0731 code. Was told I need to tear down the tranny and get quoted $3,900 for a new one only $100 less for a rebuild. Really?

17 months and 28,000 miles and the transmission is done? Nice quality work Aamco. Think twice before using these guys. Glad I spent 3k with you guys. So now I need to decide what to do. The code reads incorrect 1 st gear ratio. No other codes. Will this progressively get worse? Debating getting a junkyard trans and changing it myself. I am mechanically inclined but never changed an auto trans before. I swapped out the rear end twice myself 2 years ago. What would you guys do?
 



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Sell it and get a 2005 model. That is if you like the 3rd gens.
2002's especially and 2003's have the most issues.

This is my opinion at least. If you are like me and drive a car until it simply won't go anymore, then put another trans in it.
 






Several guys here have had good luck with rebuilt from RockAuto, 3-year warrantee. That's probably what I'd do. Junkyard is way too much risk...

Mike
 






AAMCO is not what they used to be. At one time they were very good, after the mid 80's naaaaahhhh.
 






AAMCO is not what they used to be. At one time they were very good, after the mid 80's naaaaahhhh.

Yes found that out the hard way. Was going to write the corporate office, but after reading how corporate has basically been screwing the franchises for years what good will that do? All I can say is AAMCO sucks if they can't rebuild a trans that will last more than 28000 miles. The car is well maintained, regular trans flush etc...
 






By the way, to get it diagnosed at Larson Ford in Lakewood, NJ $200. Took it in and was quoted $100, but with "further diagnostic tests" and taxes $200. Basically to get a code read and tell me the best course of action would be to "Tear down and rebuild".

I must say the automotive industry is a nice racket nowadays. Absolutely no craftsmanship or pride in the work, incompetence and they are greedy thieves. As I'm paying the cashier asks if I was completely satisfied with the work done? I tell her no work was done, just a code read. She looks bewildered and says well we want to make sure your completely satisfied. I quickly walked out before I told her what Im really thinking and get myself arrested. But hey I got a free mint, so I guess I got my money's worth as usual.
 






By the way, to get it diagnosed at Larson Ford in Lakewood, NJ $200. Took it in and was quoted $100, but with "further diagnostic tests" and taxes $200. Basically to get a code read and tell me the best course of action would be to "Tear down and rebuild".

I must say the automotive industry is a nice racket nowadays. Absolutely no craftsmanship or pride in the work, incompetence and they are greedy thieves. As I'm paying the cashier asks if I was completely satisfied with the work done? I tell her no work was done, just a code read. She looks bewildered and says well we want to make sure your completely satisfied. I quickly walked out before I told her what Im really thinking and get myself arrested. But hey I got a free mint, so I guess I got my money's worth as usual.

I had some serious words with a dealership here, it was not pretty. $800 in labor then I had to purchase another $400 in parts because they broke stuff, then they were going to try to charge me labor to install the parts I bought that they broke... Took 4 days to do a 1/2 day job because they took other jobs and put mine on the back burner.
 






I had some serious words with a dealership here, it was not pretty. $800 in labor then I had to purchase another $400 in parts because they broke stuff, then they were going to try to charge me labor to install the parts I bought that they broke... Took 4 days to do a 1/2 day job because they took other jobs and put mine on the back burner.

Yup, this seems to be the norm nowadays, not the exception. And this goes beyond the car industry.
 






Next time you need codes, get a cheap bluetooth OBDII tool like this one and download FORScan. You can pull quite a bit of information using these tools. The code you have is tough to diagnose on its own, but it is most likely a mechanical issue (not something like the solenoids).
 






Several guys here have had good luck with rebuilt from RockAuto, 3-year warrantee. That's probably what I'd do. Junkyard is way too much risk...

Mike

I've ordered from RockAuto.com before, the same place? Cant find rebuilt trans in their website.
 






I feel your pain... My aunt's mountaineer has gotten 5k miles on 4 vehicle disabeling transmission problems. The origional one made it till 159k miles with fluid changes at 50k, 100k, and 145k miles. At 159k it blew a hole in the side of it. At 163,500 the 4th gear band failed, as well as the solonoid alledgedly. Both were changed under warranty. at 163,508 miles, the solonoid failed alledgedly, and apparently blew some fuses controling the radio, adjustable pedles, and keyless entry. at 163,950 miles, it now has no gears forward or reverse again.

This is out of a local shop who's been in business since the 70's... "Them new fords and their damn electronics are just junk. A blown tail lamp can cause one to fail" Totally crap and bla bla bla. Bad experiance all the way around...
 






I've ordered from RockAuto.com before, the same place? Cant find rebuilt trans in their website.

Really? It is under the transmission tab.

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Now I see it. Thank you.

Anyone tackle a trans removal on this forum? Are the trans to motor bolts hard to get to? Especially the top ones?

Those top bolts are not easy to get to, but with a long extension it is not too bad. You have to pull the starter, which is a pain, and getting the exhaust out/in is aggravating as well. If you have 4WD, the transfer case adds to the complexity of removal too. It is not an easy job, but it is manageable. I would not try it without a garage to work in and a transmission jack, at a minimum.
 






I have an additional problem I am trying to figure out. Tonight I am stopped at a traffic light and the truck just cut out on me. I had the check charging system light come on right after. I had no surge in rpms, no indication that it was going to stall, just quit. Started up right away and drove off.

So now I'm trying to figure out if the trans could have caused the problem, the code I have is incorrect 1st gear ratio, maybe the TC caused the stall? Or was it unrelated and electrical.? The battery was replaced recently. Alternator is original to the car. I hooked up a voltmeter and the charging volts are between 13.7 to 14 under load. Battery is 12.5 at rest. I did see the battery meter flicker slightly while driving. What do you all think? Trans or alternator beginning to fail?
 






I have an additional problem I am trying to figure out. Tonight I am stopped at a traffic light and the truck just cut out on me. I had the check charging system light come on right after. I had no surge in rpms, no indication that it was going to stall, just quit. Started up right away and drove off.

So now I'm trying to figure out if the trans could have caused the problem, the code I have is incorrect 1st gear ratio, maybe the TC caused the stall? Or was it unrelated and electrical.? The battery was replaced recently. Alternator is original to the car. I hooked up a voltmeter and the charging volts are between 13.7 to 14 under load. Battery is 12.5 at rest. I did see the battery meter flicker slightly while driving. What do you all think? Trans or alternator beginning to fail?


Alt is gonna die.....
 






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