PCV valve, Sea-Foam and Tune-Up for 1999 Explorer 302 AWD V8 302 8 cylinder | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums

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PCV valve, Sea-Foam and Tune-Up for 1999 Explorer 302 AWD V8 302 8 cylinder

Well I'll be. I wish the part store had it last fall when I Seafoamed my Mountaineer. It would have saved a bunch of time and a lot of words :D

However my PCV needed replacing so it wouldn't have made a difference.
 



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Finally got mine done today! Did it blind, all by feel. Went to napa and they sold me the wrong part. Had to go to Advance but it worked and took about 15 minutes to line it up to get back in!
 






Im going to do my seafoam treatment tomorrow but im a little unclear on how much seafoam is recommended to use. Should i feed it a whole can? or half? or third? I'd really like to use a whole can if its safe to do so.
 






Im going to do my seafoam treatment tomorrow but im a little unclear on how much seafoam is recommended to use. Should i feed it a whole can? or half? or third? I'd really like to use a whole can if its safe to do so.

I always use a full can when doing any of the induction methods on the last two Explorers I've owned. You'll be fine. Do consider that you may foul your plugs regardless of how much you use depending on how much crud gets loosened.
 






Well, i did the treatment and it was easy as pie. Nothing to it. I just used a piece of scrap hose as an extension and FYI the elbow that comes with the new pcv valve works great as a fitting to attach the extension hose to the pcv hose. Car smoked like a chimney too.:D
 






Well, i did the treatment and it was easy as pie. Nothing to it. I just used a piece of scrap hose as an extension and FYI the elbow that comes with the new pcv valve works great as a fitting to attach the extension hose to the pcv hose. Car smoked like a chimney too.:D

Oh yeah. I did a brake booster treatment a few weeks ago because my PCV is so hard to reach since I got a 1" UI spacer put in last summer. Hardly any smoke. PCV method creates a LOT more smoke and is definitely the way to go.
 






Finally got mine done today! Did it blind, all by feel. Went to napa and they sold me the wrong part. Had to go to Advance but it worked and took about 15 minutes to line it up to get back in!
Did you use the Puralator PCV? As that all advance carries by me
 






Did you use the Puralator PCV? As that all advance carries by me

I know this wasnt directed at me but i used the Purolator pcv valve from advanced. I hope its decent quality. I intended to buy a motorcraft but my dealer could only get the valve and hose assembly for around $40. The purolator was $5.
 






I know this wasnt directed at me but i used the Purolator pcv valve from advanced. I hope its decent quality. I intended to buy a motorcraft but my dealer could only get the valve and hose assembly for around $40. The purolator was $5.

Yeah, Ford dealers got a bit of a scam going on. They'll only sell you the entire assembly which is the hoses, fittings and a PCV valve installed. The PCV valve included is Motorcraft part # EV-140. I've seen them on eBay for around $5. Rockauto has them by themselves as well for just under $6. I got one from them.

Keep in mind that if you get this part in the box, it will look wrong because it's of a right angle orientation, but the plastic piece on it that makes it a right angle is removeable (click on More Info link at Rock Auto to see what I mean). Or this mini pic:

tn_w83ev233.jpg


I'm sure the Purolator offering is an acceptable alternative.
 






Yeah, Ford dealers got a bit of a scam going on. They'll only sell you the entire assembly which is the hoses, fittings and a PCV valve installed. The PCV valve included is Motorcraft part # EV-140. I've seen them on eBay for around $5. Rockauto has them by themselves as well for just under $6. I got one from them.

Keep in mind that if you get this part in the box, it will look wrong because it's of a right angle orientation, but the plastic piece on it that makes it a right angle is removeable (click on More Info link at Rock Auto to see what I mean). Or this mini pic:

tn_w83ev233.jpg


I'm sure the Purolator offering is an acceptable alternative.

Actually, my pcv valve motorcraft part # is EV-152. The purolator part# is PV-152. Also, the purolator pcv valve comes with 3 different elbow fittings but none are attached to the valve itself. They are just loose in the box.
 






Actually, my pcv valve motorcraft part # is EV-152. The purolator part# is PV-152. Also, the purolator pcv valve comes with 3 different elbow fittings but none are attached to the valve itself. They are just loose in the box.

I can assure you that the EV-140 is identical to OEM in every way, shape and form. My original PCV valve had no part # on it (couldn't make it out), but the EV-140 is indistinguishable from it, the elbow notwithstanding. I've known others who have used this part as well (that's how I found out about it). From what I can tell, the EV-152 comes with assorted elbows and the EV-140 only comes with one. That's probably all that's different between the two except the 152 tends to be a buck or two more than the 140.

Here's a stock photo I found for the 152:

w83ev152d.jpg


Both this pic and the other one I posted:

tn_w83ev233.jpg



are from the same seller. We're talking mice nuts here. Just trying to help out people who get the typical stealership answer that you need to buy the whole assembly.

Now if you're installing Torque Monster Headers and a UI spacer, then the whole assembly is a good idea because the t-fitting on one of the hoses tends to break when removing the upper intake. It can't hurt to replace the assembly then for piece of mind (been there, done that).
 






I can assure you that the EV-140 is identical to OEM in every way, shape and form. My original PCV valve had no part # on it (couldn't make it out), but the EV-140 is indistinguishable from it, the elbow notwithstanding. I've known others who have used this part as well (that's how I found out about it). From what I can tell, the EV-152 comes with assorted elbows and the EV-140 only comes with one. That's probably all that's different between the two except the 152 tends to be a buck or two more than the 140.

Here's a stock photo I found for the 152:

w83ev152d.jpg


Both this pic and the other one I posted:

tn_w83ev233.jpg



are from the same seller. We're talking mice nuts here. Just trying to help out people who get the typical stealership answer that you need to buy the whole assembly.

Now if you're installing Torque Monster Headers and a UI spacer, then the whole assembly is a good idea because the t-fitting on one of the hoses tends to break when removing the upper intake. It can't hurt to replace the assembly then for piece of mind (been there, done that).

No argument that they're probably identical. I was just stating that my old motorcraft pcv said EV-152 on it.
 






No argument that they're probably identical. I was just stating that my old motorcraft pcv said EV-152 on it.

Good to know for future reference. The topic comes up every once in a while.

I only wish the PCV was accessible as it is on my wife's Subie Outback. As I write this I'm sitting in an industrial area near where I work. I just dumped a can of Seafoam into it via the PCV. It's at the top of the engine near the front. I had to loosen it with a 19mm wrench but then it comes out by hand without an issue. I'll fire it up in a little bit to commence the smoke show. Last time I did it on her car, it smoked for 15 minutes, hence why I don't do it near home. ;)
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ok ... so i did the seafoam today... I put half a can into the hose coming off the PCV valve... poured it in as it was warm and running... turned the truck off and let sit for 10 mins. When I started it back up I did not really get an massive amount of smoke. It looked more like when you start your truck on a cold day in winter. Not much smoke at all. Did I do it right? did I not use enough?? And I know the answer cant be because my engine is super clean! ;)
 






After an hour of searching in the locations denoted in my Haynes manual and various web sites I still could not find the PCV valve or hoses. Bottom line on my particualr Explorer you cannot see it in the engine compartment. It is WELL hidden so don't even bother looking even with a flashlight. You have to feel around and find it. [...]

Thanks 0mn1p0tent! This really is a 5 minute job BUT took me 2 hours cuz I couldn't locate the valve and kept walking back and forth to my computer to look at pictures. I'm sharing this to hopefully help others lessen their time.

0. First, at least on the 2000, there's not a front hose that you have to remove from the PCV. It just goes straight into the intake.

1. As someone else mentioned, I don't like pulling out hoses I can't see :) so I got a stepladder, got my knees onto the front frame, leaned onto the intake manifold, took a flashlight and peered between the xmission dipstick and the manifold. (Glad there wasn't a camera around :D) It's down there! Hose came out easily. Lift straight up and you will get *just* enough clearance to replace the valve.

2. Got confused because the grommet came out with the PCV. When I think of "grommet" I never would have thought of this. It's rigid plastic and is threaded on the bottom, even though it doesn't screw into the intake. Simply pull it off the PCV/hose assembly.

3. There's this giant foam ring on the upper side of the PCV, wrapped around the hose. This made for more confusion; between the grommet and the foam, the valve itself is invisible! The foam would not slide up as shown in some pictures; mine was attached (perhaps melted a little bit), meaning I had to tear it on one side to get it off.

4. Once you get it off you will see the top of the valve; mine was marked "Motorcraft EV-152". Determined pulling will remove it from the hose.

5. The replacement part I bought at Autozone was zinc in color rather than black, and it had a rigid plastic 90-degree elbow on it, which is not necessary for the 2000. I couldn't pull it off (the valve has a barb) and ended up using a box cutter to split the rigid plastic and get past the barb.

6. Insert the new PCV valve in the hose, rewrap the foam around the hose, stick the bottom end of the valve into the grommet, clean the threads on the grommet, and reinsert gromment/PCV/hose back into the intake.
 






Can you send me anything that will help me out? I think I can see the PCV valve, but I'm not sure and I can't find any diagrams that will help... I suspect I also have one of those 96?-97? Explorers.
 






PCV location, 2000 Explorer PHOTO

Can you send me anything that will help me out? I think I can see the PCV valve, but I'm not sure and I can't find any diagrams that will help... I suspect I also have one of those 96?-97? Explorers.

OK, here's a shot. Remember this is a 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0:
pcv1.jpg


For some perspective, that big yellow blob in the upper left corner is the Automatic transmission dipstick. The shot is taken from above (head touching the hood liner :) )

Immediately next to the dipstick is an aluminum housing with two electrical lines connected to its top; you can see it in the foreground. The PCV hose is beneath and behind it. At the bottom of the hose you can see the honkin' piece of foam I described previously; grab holt of that and pull - it doesn't take much effort! If you pull straight up on it, you will get just enough clearance to change the valve.
 









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Is this hose the one that leads to the PCV? In is on a 2001 5.0L, driver side bank (where the engine oil dip stick is). If I feel it just a little further, it is a plastic pice (the T to the front side port?). Mine looks like almost fell off, wouldn't go back in. When I stop the engine I can hear the air rushing back into the vacuum, past it (or at least I think that's it).

PVC_1.png

PVC_2.png
 






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