PCV valve, Sea-Foam and Tune-Up for 1999 Explorer 302 AWD V8 302 8 cylinder | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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PCV valve, Sea-Foam and Tune-Up for 1999 Explorer 302 AWD V8 302 8 cylinder

Ok WTF I've spent an hour today looking for my PCV, I have a 98 XLT SOHC can someone give me a hand? Also once I get that out the Seafoam I just let the hose suck it up, or pour it into the hole that the PCV came out of? Thanks

This thread is for the 5.0. You'll need to search elsewhere for SOHC 4.0.

Might want to ask the guy who started this thread. Sounds like PCV is a ***** on the SOHC.
 



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This thread is for the 5.0. You'll need to search elsewhere for SOHC 4.0.

Might want to ask the guy who started this thread. Sounds like PCV is a ***** on the SOHC.

Got the PCV valve didn't turn out to be that bad just the way people described it to be hard so I was looking in touch places, in reality it was in the back of the intake manifold look from the passanger side behind the manifold and TA DA. Anyways I'll write that up later, how exactly do I use the seafoam in it? Pour it down the tube the valve came out of or let the two hoses that connect to the valve suck up the foam?
 






Got the PCV valve didn't turn out to be that bad just the way people described it to be hard so I was looking in touch places, in reality it was in the back of the intake manifold look from the passanger side behind the manifold and TA DA. Anyways I'll write that up later, how exactly do I use the seafoam in it? Pour it down the tube the valve came out of or let the two hoses that connect to the valve suck up the foam?

As before, this is a 5.0 related sticky thread. If you want to write-up on the SOHC you should start a new thread or add to an existing SOHC one (remember, this site's been in existence for a long time). Going off topic like this is considered hijacking and is not good forum etiquette. Just a heads up.

Good luck with the Seafoaming.
 






I know and I fully understand that, the last post I was just asking what the proper seafoaming technique is I didn't think that engine mattered in terms of how to get it into your PCV. If this is also in the wrong sorry, I'm not a big forum go-er.
 






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Does anyone know if the wire mesh under the PCV valve (it sits inside the hole in block) is required? Mine vanished and Ford doesn't list the part anymore.
 






Is there any harm that can come from letting the seafoam sit in there for more than 10 or 15 minutes. I need to take a look at a squeak coming from my brakes as well and just wanted to kill two birds at the same time. Im thinking I would leave it sit in there for about an hour or so, just to get it really clean and all. My 99 X has about 140k on it and I need it to last me at least another year.

BTW this is the sweetest thread I've came across as a member

(First post WOOT)
 






Is there any harm that can come from letting the seafoam sit in there for more than 10 or 15 minutes. I need to take a look at a squeak coming from my brakes as well and just wanted to kill two birds at the same time. Im thinking I would leave it sit in there for about an hour or so, just to get it really clean and all. My 99 X has about 140k on it and I need it to last me at least another year.

BTW this is the sweetest thread I've came across as a member

(First post WOOT)

I let mine sit for close to an hour. Was hard starting, but she did fire up and smoked a ton. Mind you, my plugs were toast afterwards, but that isn't necessarily tied to the fact I left the Seafoam in for as long as I did but more to the fact the Seafoam cleared a lot of crap and left it on the plugs. People should always be aware of the potential need to change plugs after an aggressive Seafoam treatment.

I'm not going to use the induction method any more. Too much hassle (especially since I got my upper intake spacer installed and a new PCV setup where the valve is a nightmare to remove). Instead I'm being more preventative now by running it through my gas more often. Even Seafoam (the Company) tells you that you'll get the same results over time by using either method.
 






Okay, this is gonna sound stupid... from the looks of all of the pictures... you pretty much put the seafoam into the tube that's hard to get to.. right? and that's all there is?... What does this valve look like?... I'm at where 99ex2 was when he was like.. "All I see is a tube?" what exactly does the "Valve" look like... by valve do you mean the tube itself?.... And if pouring into that rear hard to get hose... isn't it only going to the front of the intake now since you now just pulled the rear?.... wtf..
 






Okay, this is gonna sound stupid... from the looks of all of the pictures... you pretty much put the seafoam into the tube that's hard to get to.. right? and that's all there is?... What does this valve look like?... I'm at where 99ex2 was when he was like.. "All I see is a tube?" what exactly does the "Valve" look like... by valve do you mean the tube itself?.... And if pouring into that rear hard to get hose... isn't it only going to the front of the intake now since you now just pulled the rear?.... wtf..

The valve is a little black thing with a nipple on one end that plugs into the tube. While not identical, the 5.0 application looks sort of like the one on the left:

PCVcomparison2R.jpg


Don't overthink it storlied like you're infamous for doing. If I can figure it out, anyone can. Just remove the PCV. Dump Seafoam into the line the removed PCV came out of. Replace PCV in line. Replace PCV in crankcase. Remember that the crankcase gasket may come out with the PCV when you remove it so you might not be sure what you're looking at right away. Also remember that it takes very little force to remove the PCV from the crankcase but it takes more elbow grease to get the PCV out of the line.

This thread provides all the info you need and then some.
 






Yeah, I just read every page. I get it now. Tube, then PVC which has the nipple that goes into the tube... on the other side is pretty much just a round "tube" type deal (the lower portion of the valve in the picture.. that goes into the lower intake (through what should be a pretty loose gromet), correct? And this rear tube.. with everything hooked up the way it is... will distribute the seafoam to All the cylinders? No need to unplug the front like some people have for some reason? (Possibly it's easier for them given the slack) I'm having some stupid pinging issues and bad hesitation for some reason.. hopefully this fixes it up.

So I think I'm pretty sure I got it now.. the tube in which we're unplugging is for the block practically, (to put it in that hole would be just as good as pouring it into the oil, not really cleaning the internals out) and everywhere else it splits off to is for the upper intake which goes to all the cylinders. Got it.

My confusion came from not knowing what exactly a PCV valve looked like.. I thought the PCV was just all the tubing.. PCV here, PCV there.. it gets awfully confusing. Putting up that picture I think will definitely help in the future for people.
 






Well, we all know you confuse easily. :p:

Here's another pic which shows up a few times in this thread. Spot the PCV in the pic (HINT: It's at one end of a tube). It's sitting inside the crankcase gasket if you need another hint. ;)

DSCN4676.jpg


I tell ya. As effective as this maintenance is, I'm done with it. Since I put the 1" UI spacer on this summer, it's that much harder to get at, although I can remove the PCV from the crankcase. However, removing the PCV from the hose is not easy as it's a brand new assembly and it's in there good. Also, after trashing a fairly new set of Double Plats, I'm wary of fouling another set. According to Seafoam's website, an induction method is only necessary in cases where carbon is really built up. The gas tank method works just as well over time. Now I'm putting Seafoam in the tank several times a year as preventative maintenance.
 






Just an idea... why not cut the tube in a section that's out in the open.. put in a T.. and plug the peice stickin out when not in use? Or if the issue is always having to pull that up... put a string on it?....lmao..

Or actually, back there... make a quick disconnect after the PCV valve... so you don't have to stress the tubing to yank the valve out?

The only challenge (which probably isn't much of a challange) is getting your plug or disconnect to seal good. I think it would be a worthwhile mod.. I might have to do this if my Seafoam thing works good for me... but for you since you have that spacer... this might just be the solution.
 






Just an idea... why not cut the tube in a section that's out in the open.. put in a T.. and plug the peice stickin out when not in use? Or if the issue is always having to pull that up... put a string on it?....lmao..

Or actually, back there... make a quick disconnect after the PCV valve... so you don't have to stress the tubing to yank the valve out?

The only challenge (which probably isn't much of a challange) is getting your plug or disconnect to seal good. I think it would be a worthwhile mod.. I might have to do this if my Seafoam thing works good for me... but for you since you have that spacer... this might just be the solution.

Those are actually good ideas. I don't have any problem lifting up the PCV from the crankcase anymore because it really is simple once you do it once. My crankcase gasket used to stay seated so it was even easier. With the new assembly installed at Turdle's place in July, the gasket always comes up with the PCV now. Last time I went hunting (I'm having driveability issues since the headers went in and thought it was a loose PCV), the gasket fell off the PCV and it took me an hour to locate it in the depths of my engine. It was a real ***** to find! I would have been hooped without the gasket as I don't think it's available as a part by itself. Also with the spacer, it takes me longer to re-seat the PCV and gasket. It really is a tight working quarter back there!

Just take your time and be patient. Definitely rig up something to pour the Seafoam into the tube. My Coleman funnel and tube works great although I'd probably need a longer length of tube with the spacer in place.

....but for you since you have that spacer... this might just be the solution.

NOPE. As before, I'm done with the induction method. I actually have Seafoam in the tank right now. Works great as a gas-line antifreeze/water remover too.
 






I can definitely see how it's difficult for you.. seems like the engine is at an angle .. when lifted (the upper intake anyways) is just getting closer to the firewall.

=) I wonder if I could get away with releasing this smoke monster during the day.. =P After all.. it is winter in Alaska... exhaust creates a cloud anyways.. lol.. I prolly could get away with it if it was much colder out.. as everyone's vehicle puts out more of a cloud. Since it's cold out.. and getting back there with an engine up to temp can pose a burn risk... what do you suggest as for doing this with the engine cold or warm? Logically the seafoam isn't gonna work as effeciently as when the engine is nice and hot. In fact I almost did burn myself a few months ago trying to find the PCV. What did you do?

Edit: Actually, I wasn't looking for the PCV.. I was trying to find where the firewall ground strap went to.
 






do you suggest as for doing this with the engine cold or warm? Logically the seafoam isn't gonna work as effeciently as when the engine is nice and hot. In fact I almost did burn myself a few months ago trying to find the PCV. What did you do?

The Seafoam works quite well with the engine warm to the touch (I've done it twice). I can't see how you'd get it if the engine was hot. Maybe with gloves, but I need bare hands to get it done. I know of one EF member that covers his hands with baby powder to make it easier to avoid scuffing up your hands. I know my hands were scraped a bit getting this job done.

As far as creating smoke, do it at night if you're worried about what people think. You will get stares for sure during the day. It creates a LOT more smoke than simple exhaust vapour. :D
 






I just went out and pulled it for the first time and may have stumbled apon my engine issues... and another issue. The hole it goes into is caked is crud, and the valve itself is caked with crud... and... I can't seem to get the valve All the way back into the hole.. it just kinda sits in the top of the hole... engine is still running with it's shudder at idle. Did I just find my issues? Where can I find another one of these valves?... I'm gonna have to pour a whole damn bottle of seafoam to clean this engine if this is a sign of how the rest of the engine is...I'll probably need to do this with multiple bottles... it's just nothing but thick black crap.

And there's not a lot of slack in this tubing at all.. I see why you guys had to go out and get tubing "Extensions" I can barely twist and pull it up to where I can see it above the intake.

And yes indeed I just scraped my arm n hand up a lil bit... with your spacer... I don't even see how you can get back there at all.

On second thought, if I can remove this valve without breaking anything... I could probably just spray the crap out of it. I shouldn't need a new one unless this was actually Broken.. But all this crap everywhere....this needs to go.
 






The hole it goes into is caked is crud, and the valve itself is caked with crud... Where can I find another one of these valves?...

Wow, I didn't have the same issues at all. Not much crud at all and valve went back into crankcase with little effort, but my truck to this day only has 118,000 km (just short of 71,000 miles). I did the last Seafoam treatment at around 60,000 miles and one about 6 months before that.

If you go to the stealership, they'll try and sell you the whole assembly like in the pic I posted. I went that route because the t-fitting on the assembly often breaks during the TMH install. If you want just the PCV valve, hit up Rock Auto, Fast Parts (Torrie) or an eBay seller for a Motorcraft EV-140. Don't be baffled when you get it because our valve is a straight valve where the EV-140 comes with a right angle on it. The right angle thingy is removable and then you end up with the same PCV that is installed in the assembly. They're not that expensive at all.
 






I'm quite fustrated now, who the hell designed this thing?! Does the Vaccum system have ANYTHING to do with the heater? My heater does not work at all now, not one bit. I've never had any blower motor issues. What fuse should I look for? Rear heating works (I don't know if it'll actually put out heat, but it's blowing air) and I Cannot get this stupid valve all the way back in.. I wiped all the crap off of it.
 



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I'm quite fustrated now, who the hell designed this thing?! Does the Vaccum system have ANYTHING to do with the heater? My heater does not work at all now, not one bit. I've never had any blower motor issues. What fuse should I look for? Rear heating works (I don't know if it'll actually put out heat, but it's blowing air) and I Cannot get this stupid valve all the way back in.. I wiped all the crap off of it.

Never heard of heat related issues tied to a PCV valve. Try to start a new thread instead of hijacking this one for that issue. After all, this is a Seafoam thread.

If you can't get the PCV back in, perhaps your gasket has moved (or fallen out) or something. It shouldn't be that hard to get back in. May want to start a thread for that one too as it's definitely not a Seafoam issue either.

Good luck solving both issues. It's always bittersweet with these trucks. ;)
 






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