sparky2263
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- December 23, 2005
- Messages
- 265
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Melrose, Fl
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 99 Limited AWD 302
Here's some pics to make PCV valve changes (and Sea-Foam application) on the 5.0's a little easier. As I found out, it is a dual hose set-up. The PCV tees into a front and rear hose. Removing the front hose is ESSENTIAL to removing the valve. Here's a pic of the front hose;
And here's the port once the hose is removed (under intake, viewed directly from front);
Just grab hold of the front hose and pull forward. It'll come off. The rear hose is easy. It's under the rear of the intake viewed from the drivers side. The PCV valve is easiest removed by reaching straight over the motor from the front and pulling straight up. You can then pull the assembly towards the drivers side as shown in these 2 pics;
I then turned the PCV upside down, pushed it back over and hooked the hoses back up for the Sea-Foam treatment. The PCV winds up here;
Tools used for Sea-Foam treatment. Special dispenser hose, high tech regulator apparatus and Sea-Foam;
I removed the PCV and inserted the 1/4" hose with nipple in it's place. Started the engine (already fully warmed up, very important) and then used the needle nose to regulate flow. Kept the engine from stalling 'til it got down to about a 1/4 can, released the needle nose totally and let the engine stall. I then let it sit for about 30 mins. and started up.
Why use the PCV hose and not the brake booster or similiar hose? The PCV is the only location (besides canister purge) that is designed to evenly flow to all cylinders. The brake booster is NOT designed for flow and will, at best, clean 3 or 4 cylinders. The only other way (and I've done this before) is to hook up to the canister purge circuit. Just ensure canister purge is manifold vacuum and not ported.
Looks like it's working!
Only Motorcraft for my Explorer!
Why Motorcraft and not a similiar quality brand? First off, PCV valves. They are built to a certain flow rating. This directly affects IAC counts and proper MAF values. I've done the comparison about 8-10 times. Fully warmed up vehicle at idle, new aftermarket valve. Note the IAC and RPM values. Install new Motorcraft PCV and note the values. ALWAYS different. Always. For such an inexpensive, yet very important item, why bother?
Plugs and wires. Our ignition systems are multiple strike systems. i.e., the plug fires up to 3 times each compression event. Not only that, but because they are distributorless, they also fire up to 3 times each exhaust event. That's up to 6 sparks per firing event. The spark is what wears down the electrodes. This vehicle was tuned by Ford at 50k miles (where I bought it). The single platinums were installed. The gap when I removed them was .076 avg. The double platinums went back in (recommended).
One last note on plug wires. For whatever reason, the wires I removed (also Motorcraft) had heat shields on #'s 4, 7 and 8. The new Motorcrafts had an additional shield for the #3 cyl. The wires have a list price of $217 but can be had for $100-125 wholesale.
And here's the port once the hose is removed (under intake, viewed directly from front);
Just grab hold of the front hose and pull forward. It'll come off. The rear hose is easy. It's under the rear of the intake viewed from the drivers side. The PCV valve is easiest removed by reaching straight over the motor from the front and pulling straight up. You can then pull the assembly towards the drivers side as shown in these 2 pics;
I then turned the PCV upside down, pushed it back over and hooked the hoses back up for the Sea-Foam treatment. The PCV winds up here;
Tools used for Sea-Foam treatment. Special dispenser hose, high tech regulator apparatus and Sea-Foam;
I removed the PCV and inserted the 1/4" hose with nipple in it's place. Started the engine (already fully warmed up, very important) and then used the needle nose to regulate flow. Kept the engine from stalling 'til it got down to about a 1/4 can, released the needle nose totally and let the engine stall. I then let it sit for about 30 mins. and started up.
Why use the PCV hose and not the brake booster or similiar hose? The PCV is the only location (besides canister purge) that is designed to evenly flow to all cylinders. The brake booster is NOT designed for flow and will, at best, clean 3 or 4 cylinders. The only other way (and I've done this before) is to hook up to the canister purge circuit. Just ensure canister purge is manifold vacuum and not ported.
Looks like it's working!
Only Motorcraft for my Explorer!
Why Motorcraft and not a similiar quality brand? First off, PCV valves. They are built to a certain flow rating. This directly affects IAC counts and proper MAF values. I've done the comparison about 8-10 times. Fully warmed up vehicle at idle, new aftermarket valve. Note the IAC and RPM values. Install new Motorcraft PCV and note the values. ALWAYS different. Always. For such an inexpensive, yet very important item, why bother?
Plugs and wires. Our ignition systems are multiple strike systems. i.e., the plug fires up to 3 times each compression event. Not only that, but because they are distributorless, they also fire up to 3 times each exhaust event. That's up to 6 sparks per firing event. The spark is what wears down the electrodes. This vehicle was tuned by Ford at 50k miles (where I bought it). The single platinums were installed. The gap when I removed them was .076 avg. The double platinums went back in (recommended).
One last note on plug wires. For whatever reason, the wires I removed (also Motorcraft) had heat shields on #'s 4, 7 and 8. The new Motorcrafts had an additional shield for the #3 cyl. The wires have a list price of $217 but can be had for $100-125 wholesale.