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Picking a locker?




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A open diff will help you from sliding sideways when you are off camber. when both of the wheels on a axle are spinning gravity wins.
A open rear diffrential would have helped prevent this (Elbe Hills pinstriping)
 

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jrgaylor said:
A open diff will help you from sliding sideways when you are off camber. when both of the wheels on a axle are spinning gravity wins.
A open rear diffrential would have helped prevent this (Elbe Hills pinstriping)


Ouch!!!! You just gave me all the confirmation I needed on the open vs. L/S debate!!!!!!!!

I am going with Yukon 4.56 Gears (at RR&P's suggestions) and The Eaton E-Locker.

If I use good judgement I shouldn't need it except for occasional fun.
I really just wan't the added security of that switch when alone.
There have been a couple times I easily went down something that I played hell getting back up. Hopefully the locker combined with the mud terrains will help prevent this in the spring. :D
 






RockRanger said:
Jefe has one of those limited slip electric lockers and he was having problems with it not staying locked when he really needed it at the truckhaven run.
I'll expand on this to give the elec-trac a fighting chance.

When I first got the Elec-trac working it would only hold so much torque before popping and relocking. After a call to Trac-tech the problem was that I was using synthetic gear oil (Mobil 1) and so it was too slippery for the locker portion to work. I then switched to the recommended fluid which is Shell Spirax (hard to find, though Pep Boys just now started carrying it) I wanted to make sure it worked so I locked it up on the street :eek: at crawl speed and slowly steered back and forth and ended up busting a hub :banghead: so I knew it worked.

At Truckhaven this last trip it seemed to be acting like it first did, so I wasn't too happy and was contemplating replacing it. Well today I was repacking wheel bearings and one of my hubs was busted again (not sure when it happened, but its been trashed for a while) so I think I diagnosed the problem wrong, though the locker could still be acting up. The jury is still out on that.

Now on the plus side, the true-trac (torsen-type limited slip) portion of it is awesome. The only time I ever even bother locking it up is when I'm doing crazy stuff like this:

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The other plus to it is that if any portion of the actuator fails (electrically or mechanically) the default position is locked, so it won't leave you stranded w/o a locker. It comes with a spring and plate to replace the actuator and unlock it.
 






dreamr said:
It seems that the ECTED is actually an electronically controlled traction device. Meaning that rather than flipping a switch and being fully locked or open, it is a L/S that is controlled electronically. as torque is needed at one spot or another it transfers it there rather than fully locking the rear.

They say that it can adjust itself from a open position to 100% torque transfer. Which is cool, but I am sick of computers controlling it all. I want to flip a switch and be locked not let it decide what to do.
I know this is how it works on the OEM installations where there is a traction control computer. However on aftermarket installs I guess I assumed you just had a switch and it was locked or unlocked.
 






I have had an ECTED for a few months now. Activation is done with a switch. I had a talk with a tech at the factory about using the signal from the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case to drive the ECTED, this way when the system sensed slippage, it would give me traction when needed. He said that it had been tried, but made a buzzing sound so I didn't bother hooking it up that way.

The dash mounted switch works great!

Al
 












RockRanger said:
Jefe has one of those limited slip electric lockers and he was having problems with it not staying locked when he really needed it at the truckhaven run.
And...........he couldn't get it to turn off after it finally worked.
 






OK, I know this is an old thread but :rolleyes:

I have the same requirements as you Bryce, as far as road performance is concerned.

Thanks for doing all the research for me :D

Now to check the bank account.

"Honey, it's a safety issue, you don't want Travis and I to slide off the trail, do you?" ;) :navajo:
 












I just don't want to be left in the campground cause you guys are tired of winching me :( . Wait a minute,,,,,,,,,that means you guys are on the trail instead of the stream. :)

I can wave the fly rod all day and not see another fisherman :p
 












I think I found an Eaton E-locker for $660 to my door, from essentiallyoffroad.com

Joe, will I have to go down there to have your buddy from Longview put it in?
 






If this guy has not installed an e-locker before make sure that when he taps the 1/2" hole for the leads coming out of the diff that he goes in through the top, but slightly offset to the driver side. Otherwise the wires may get crushed, and the locker will ground out effectively making it useless. Also once installed plan on pumping your fluid out of the fill hole. Removing the cover becomes........interesting with all that wire in there.

No offense to your guy Joe, But you should go to Randy's Phil. They learned their lessons long ago, and recently were reminded with my X.

You are only saving 10-20 dollars on the locker. You will still need the install kit (basicly same as if regearing, remember this replaces your stock carrier) And don't be surprised if you need seals, bearings, or etc.....once it is all popped open (master rebuild kit combines both these and the above kit ;) ). Mine were shot with 10-15K less miles and My truck has never pulled a boat around, or anything for that matter. In the end you'll not be paying much more if Joe's guy has to do all the same. Besides Randy's is the best in the buisiness.

Then have fun installing that huge wiring harness :D
 






dreamr said:
No offense to your guy Joe, But you should go to Randy's Phil. They learned their lessons long ago, and recently were reminded with my X.

You are only saving 10-20 dollars on the locker. You will still need the install kit (basicly same as if regearing, remember this replaces your stock carrier) And don't be surprised if you need seals, bearings, or etc.....once it is all popped open (master rebuild kit combines both these and the above kit ;) ). Besides Randy's is the best in the buisiness.

Then have fun installing that huge wiring harness :D
Good points :thumbsup:

And then there is the guarantee :D
 






it would be inconveint for you as he would need your axle or rig for a day or so.
 












i wish they made the eletralac for the TTB D35
 






How is everyone's experience with the eaton e locker going?
 



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