this isnt the exact steps... but it will give you a better jist of what your gonna have to do.
take cover off, drain gear oil.
*Use an inlb torque wrench to determin the original pinion bearing preload.
1) remove the outter nut. the Pinion nut holds everything togeather at an exact tolerance. before you remove it, turn the flange to get a feeling for how much (little) force it takes to turn it. the nut squeezes everything togeather to where the pinion takes 15-25 inlbs of torque to be turned.
2) take flange off
3) pry old seal off
3) should be a 'oil slinger' it will look like a lil shim, should fall right out
4) Tail pinoin bearing is next. Maybe this is where the gear puller comes into play? not sure on that... just giving you the jist hah
5) infront of the tail bearing you will see a small ring. This is the crush sleeve... very important aspect of the whole idea behind retaining that 15-25 inlbs of tolerance. You should try and get a new one of these, infact a couple since you might not get it right the first time
an extra pinion seal will be handy.
* Start cleaning all the parts (even the new ones) with brake cleaner...
6) Replace crush sleeve with new one
7) Press tail bearing on to pinion shaft
8) replace oil slinger
9) Install new pinion seal. Make sure to put some silicon around the edges of it. And from here you can tap it on with a rubber mallet. go in a cirular motion, usually does the trick.
10) Replace flange. Some manuals call for a lil anti-seize on the splines there.
11) Pinion nut time/Crushing the Crushsleeve. This is the hard part, you got all the way here and if you mess up on this step, you gotta start all over! Make sure you have a inlb toruqe wrench that can read as low as 15 inlbs. A strong impact will do the job. if not, a 3foot braker bar should.
What you need to do is have something hold the flange in place while you torque that nut (with perferably a strong impact). But You need to proceed slowly, every turn or so check to see how much force is need to turn the pinon itself. It will take no force (0inlbs) to turn the pinion before the crush sleeve is crushed... (you crush it by tightening the nut on to the pinion, got it?) But once it crushes enough the preload will change VERY QUICK! so be careful, if you tighten over 25 inlbs (or whatever manufactors torque spec is...) you gotta take it all apart again and put a new crush sleeve in. If its betwen the 15-25inlbs then your good. its done..
---
you might not have to do all that, you can probably skip steps 4-8 and 11 (read 12). But doing everything would only be the sure way.
12) Tighten pinion nut until it takes the same amount of preload (or a tad more if you can afford it) as it did originally, from the first setup. Make sure to use redlocktite
