Pizza boss said he doesn't want me delivering in my Explorer if it's leaking.

[Mbrooks420]

Wonder how much oil an XL crust would hold. It could bake right on the oil pan.

 

[98FordLove]

I made a square aluminum pan 1 foot square, 1.5" deep, and bolted to to a transmission bell housing bolt and starter bolt, then I put an absorbent pad in it, and covered it with a heavier mesh to prevent the pad from blowing out of the pan at highway speeds.
AT205 is an engine sealer designed to soften and swell rubber oil seals, I bought it at Napa

Wow do you have any pics of it? I was wanting to do this but everyone convinced me not to do it because it's a big fire hazard. How often did you drain the oil from the pan?

 

[98FordLove]

AT205 works on rubber seals/gaskets. worked on this RMS, but no it wont fill a crack. no slop leak will imo. if the oil pan gasket is rubber it may fix it. usually doesnt work on torn gaskets, though.

Sounds like a very good product but I won't bother with it because I believe my pa. Gasket may be torn or ripped. And it's not a cheap product either. Not worth wasting the money.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Wow do you have any pics of it? I was wanting to do this but everyone convinced me not to do it because it's a big fire hazard. How often did you drain the oil from the pan?

You wanted to tape a sponge to it. Kinda apples and oranges. Fabricating a pan would be likely more work than fixing your leak.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Sounds like a very good product but I won't bother with it because I believe my pa. Gasket may be torn or ripped. And it's not a cheap product either. Not worth wasting the money.

yeah, imo great product. used an stp stop leak prior, that didnt work, but the at205 has done the trick.

Wow do you have any pics of it? I was wanting to do this but everyone convinced me not to do it because it's a big fire hazard. How often did you drain the oil from the pan?

i imagine what they mean is they made 1 sq ft tray (guessing 3"x4") that is 1.5" deep, envision it like a 3d shape. use the imagination here, i dont have a pen and pad. then it was connected to a starter and bell housing bolt, both of which face the same direction, so its like a sink bolted to a wall so to speak. the rest is self explanatory. let me draw out what i think really quick.

 

[spetersen]

Wow do you have any pics of it? I was wanting to do this but everyone convinced me not to do it because it's a big fire hazard. How often did you drain the oil from the pan?

About once a month, sorry, no pics. it was about 3 inches below the bell housing, and away from the exhaust by 4 inches, I would check once a week to see if there was any liquid above the absorbent pad to know when the pad needed changing, the apartment didn't want any vehicles with oil leaks, I had it here without incident for 2 1/2 years before I tried the sealer, then about a year later the 98 Ranger was too rusty in the frame to bother fixing, so I sold it. I did a cheapie conversion from PVH hubs to manual also.
It was a whole lot less work to make the pan, than to replace the rear seal.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

A perpetual oil device. Run it off the exhaust.

GENIUS!!!!!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

.

 

[98FordLove]

About once a month, sorry, no pics. it was about 3 inches below the bell housing, and away from the exhaust by 4 inches, I would check once a week to see if there was any liquid above the absorbent pad to know when the pad needed changing, the apartment didn't want any vehicles with oil leaks, I had it here without incident for 2 1/2 years before I tried the sealer, then about a year later the 98 Ranger was too rusty in the frame to bother fixing, so I sold it. I did a cheapie conversion from PVH hubs to manual also.
It was a whole lot less work to make the pan, than to replace the rear seal.

The Atp205 sealer in stopped all your leaks?

Sounds like it was difficult to build this pan and mount of yours.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

The Atp205 sealer in stopped all your leaks?

Sounds like it was difficult to build this pan and mount of yours.

usually in the RMS they dont leak because they were torn, so they are likely to be stopped by a seal sweller as long as they are not really bad. i will say, i do suspect you made your leak worse by overfilling, since that over pressurizes the system, and as such can lead to leaks like these.

 

[98FordLove]

usually in the RMS they dont leak because they were torn, so they are likely to be stopped by a seal sweller as long as they are not really bad. i will say, i do suspect you made your leak worse by overfilling, since that over pressurizes the system, and as such can lead to leaks like these.

That's what I'm thinking too that I made the leak worse by overfilling. Been driving it with the oil a full quart overfilled. I will just keep driving it as is until I get the oil down to the max line. Am curious too to see if it leaks any less. Hard to tell if my RMS is leaking. I do get spots coming down further back than the oil pan but not much further back. I'd say about where the back of the oil pan sits. How long did it take for the 205 to work for you? The bottle says only 500km wow.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

That's what I'm thinking too that I made the leak worse by overfilling. Been driving it with the oil a full quart overfilled. I will just keep driving it as is until I get the oil down to the max line. Am curious too to see if it leaks any less. Hard to tell if my RMS is leaking. I do get spots coming down further back than the oil pan but not much further back. I'd say about where the back of the oil pan sits. How long did it take for the 205 to work for you? The bottle says only 500km wow.

yes that most likely worsened it. letting it go back to normal will help it leak less, but the damage has already been done. it worked quickly, maybe 100 mi of driving? and every subsequent oil change i dont notice it leak, only once but after an hour no biggie. that said, if the gasket is torn, highly unlikely this will be the fix for you. imo its good stuff. do notice have to drive it once a week or so to keep the leak away. let it sit too long theres one drop, maybe 2 on the floor after a week soemtimes. the leak was never bad, it was one of those let it sit overnight theres one drop, after a week maybe 3-4.

 

[98FordLove]

yes that most likely worsened it. letting it go back to normal will help it leak less, but the damage has already been done. it worked quickly, maybe 100 mi of driving? and every subsequent oil change i dont notice it leak, only once but after an hour no biggie. that said, if the gasket is torn, highly unlikely this will be the fix for you. imo its good stuff. do notice have to drive it once a week or so to keep the leak away. let it sit too long theres one drop, maybe 2 on the floor after a week soemtimes. the leak was never bad, it was one of those let it sit overnight theres one drop, after a week maybe 3-4.

If my front main seal is indeed leaking and my oil pan gasket is leaking but not torn then I would try a bottle. Sure it won't fix all the leaks but it could stop 2 of the 3, resulting in less drops. I read online some said you need to dump 2 bottles in. And from the sounds of it you don't need to keep dumping more in after each oil change but only if the leak returns?

I may just try it. I wonder if this stuff works similar to k-seal.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

If my front main seal is indeed leaking and my oil pan gasket is leaking but not torn then I would try a bottle. Sure it won't fix all the leaks but it could stop 2 of the 3, resulting in less drops. I read online some said you need to dump 2 bottles in. And from the sounds of it you don't need to keep dumping more in after each oil change but only if the leak returns?

if it is indeed that way, it has worked great on this sohc. i do not believe 2 is needed??? i found iirc 1 oz per quart, or somewhere abut there to be adequate for this. and no i should have specified i do add another 5 oz, sometimes less depending on how much is left and it always seals back up, even did 2 oz once and it has been fine since. though not sure if you can just not add until the leak comes back, suppose that is a more cost effective way, just know itll come back after a tiny bit without it in there, tried that already

 

[98FordLove]

if it is indeed that way, it has worked great on this sohc. i do not believe 2 is needed??? i found iirc 1 oz per quart, or somewhere abut there to be adequate for this. and no i should have specified i do add another 5 oz, sometimes less depending on how much is left and it always seals back up, even did 2 oz once and it has been fine since. though not sure if you can just not add until the leak comes back, suppose that is a more cost effective way, just know itll come back after a tiny bit without it in there, tried that already

If it works im willing to dump a bottle per oil change since I'm sure it all comes out once you drain the oil anyways. But if I can get away with less, even half a bottle per oil change even better. I'm due for an oil change soon so I may do the oil change first then put a bottle in. Is the stuff thick when you pour it out?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

If it works im willing to dump a bottle per oil change since I'm sure it all comes out once you drain the oil anyways. I'm due for an oil change soon so I may do the oil change first then put a bottle in. Is the stuff thick when you pour it out?

practically water thin. has worked in my experience.

 

[98FordLove]

practically water thin. has worked in my experience.

Interesting. I wonder how this works. I’ve used water thin stuff before and it was a waste of money.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Interesting. I wonder how this works. I’ve used water thin stuff before and it was a waste of money.

being honest, im not sure! i think its more of a conditioner than a sweller that brings it back to original size? to my knowledge its petroleum based.

 

[spetersen]

About once a month, sorry, no pics. it was about 3 inches below the bell housing, and away from the exhaust by 4 inches, I would check once a week to see if there was any liquid above the absorbent pad to know when the pad needed changing, the apartment didn't want any vehicles with oil leaks, I had it here without incident for 2 1/2 years before I tried the sealer, then about a year later the 98 Ranger was too rusty in the frame to bother fixing, so I sold it. I did a cheapie conversion from PVH hubs to manual also.
It was a whole lot less work to make the pan, than to replace the rear seal.

Edit it was only making 3" oil spots on the parking lot, so I used pizza boxes until I made the pan

 

[allmyEXes]

@spetersen I could see that working. I would add to it, criss cross bungee cords to support/secure the pizza box under the vehicle and use zip ties through the pizza box around the bungee cords. I wish that I knew how to draw on this laptop, but I don't. Maybe you could add to drawing for me. User change box as needed.