Pop/clunk in left rear?

[laneo9417]

I have a '98 XLT with 112,000 miles and have been experiencing a quick popping/clunking noise when taking left hand (90 degree) turns. It doesn't happen everytime; it seems to happen less on slow (<20 mph) turn. I'm almost positive the noise is coming from the left rear. My Ex is a victim of the "gangsta lean" and I'm wondering if this is related to the noise. Thoughts? Any info is appreciated.

(Recent work done on the vehicle includes new shocks all around, two new front wheel bearings, and new upper and lower ball joints on the driver's side.)

 

[swshawaii]

Start by checking the rear sway bar end links and frame bushings. Also check the front links and frame bushings,
which usually fail first. If not, check the front upper control arm camber bolts on both sides. Body mounts OK?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304413,parttype,7580

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304413,parttype,7624

 

[DjDom]

Does it happen over bumps too?

Check for a cracked/broken leaf spring, could also be a shock mount..

 

[laneo9417]

Sorry but do you guys have any pictures of these parts on the vehicle itself?

This specific noise seems to be isolated to left hand turns. The bumpy ride was fixed a bit with the new shocks but the truck is still pretty noisy and creaky going over bumpy roads

 

[laneo9417]

Also forgot to mention that the front sway bars have been replaced as well (about a year ago)

 

[swshawaii]

Different vehicle, same location under the truck. Easiest way to inspect is find the end links behind the rear tires and shake hard. On occasion, the nuts have fallen off. Inspect the leaf springs, shackles, and bushings while under there.

Replacement (Moog K80139)
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportT...nks/RearSwayBarEndlinksReplacementProject.htm

Repair (Moog K80085)
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/Endlink_Bushings_Replacement _Gen1.pdf

 

[laneo9417]

Those write ups are great! I'll have to inspect as soon as the weather becomes tolerable. Thanks for the info

 

[laneo9417]

Different vehicle, same location under the truck. Easiest way to inspect is find the end links behind the rear tires and shake hard. On occasion, the nuts have fallen off. Inspect the leaf springs, shackles, and bushings while under there.

Replacement (Moog K80139)
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportT...nks/RearSwayBarEndlinksReplacementProject.htm

Repair (Moog K80085)
http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/Endlink_Bushings_Replacement _Gen1.pdf

Thanks again for these how to's. I crawled under my Ex today and snapped a couple pics and my endlinks look like they are in a similar condition to your old ones (the left looks especially bad). If this project really is as easy as you describe in your write up I think I can manage it...I'll most likely replace them as opposed to the repair as they're both pretty rusty.

I also did some research on the forum and looked into the front set as well. I had my stabilizer endlinks in the front replaced a while back but now I'm wondering if the bushings could use a replacement as well. This is the thread that I found most helpful for the fronts:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285772

 

[swshawaii]

Those weren't my pics, just two projects found on the ST site. Can't see your pictures, are you using a host such as Photobucket? Either way, did you shake or hit them with a mallet to check for noise or vibration? Agree that replacing the end links is much easier than replacing the bushings, best way is to torch the bushings out but it's really nasty and dangerous. If your fronts are OEM replacements, I highly recommend using an aftermarket design such as the NEW Moog K700542 that has much more durable polyurethane bushings instead of plastic or rubber. One kit needed for each side, two total. Rear end links are Moog K80139, two needed.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304413,parttype,7580

 

[laneo9417]

Hopefully these pictures work:

Left

If this one angled to the left because of the weak leaf spring on that side?

Right

 

[swshawaii]

Wow, don't recall seeing much worse. Left side lower bushing appears to be non functional and may be the source of your clunk. What about the upper bolts? Are they loose when you shake them? I imagine the 19mm or 3/4" rear sway bar frame bushings have also seen better days. Leaf springs looked extremely de-arched also. May consider replacing the your Monroe-Matic Plus (NAPA) shocks with the popular Monroe load adjust spring assist models to help compensate for the very common "Ranger lean". Search Monroe 58617 shocks, tons of info here and less than $100 pair.

 

[laneo9417]

Wow, don't recall seeing much worse. Left side lower bushing appears to be non functional and may be the source of your clunk. What about the upper bolts? Are they loose when you shake them? I imagine the 19mm or 3/4" rear sway bar frame bushings have also seen better days. Leaf springs looked extremely de-arched also. May consider replacing the your Monroe-Matic Plus (NAPA) shocks with the popular Monroe load adjust spring assist models to help compensate for the very common "Ranger lean". Search Monroe 58617 shocks, tons of info here and less than $100 pair.

I banged the links and sway bar around with a hammer the other day but don't remember any noticeable play in the bolts. I guess my last question is this: should I even bother replacing the links and bushings without replacing the leaf springs first?

 

[swshawaii]

Looking at the condition of your leafs, replacement is probably your best option to counter the lean. RBV's have an inherent drivers side lean because of the extra weight on the left from the driver, fuel tank, battery, and dashboard. Gradually, the left will weaken faster than the right causing the sag, aka Ranger or Gangsta lean. De-arching may help but is not a long term fix. I suggest you contact a local leaf spring or suspension specialist/shop and get an opinion. Ordering them on line is another option, but the shipping may be prohibitively expensive. If the end links aren't loose, address the leafs first, they may even be the source of your noise.

 

[laneo9417]

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to get my feet wet by installing rear endlinks and sway bar bushings first and see if the ride improves at all. I've done a good deal of searching this topic on the forum and feel pretty confident in doing this myself. I've decided I'm going to go with the Moog K80139 endlinks. It looks like these come with a new bottom bolt but any chance you know what size the top bolt measures? I'm thinking ahead here and want to get an extra set of hardware just in case I have to resort to a torch to get these things off.

Next, what bushings do you recommend? I haven't measured myself yet (it's so damn cold out) but I think the rear sway bar on the 98s are 19mm in diameter. I can't seem to find a 19mm bushing set on Rockauto and I've seen people say that the Energy Suspension 19mm bushings aren't a good fit. I've also seen people use the OEM bushings. What are the best/easiest to install?

Lastly, is there a complete list of torque specs for this job? I found the following:
Rear Stabilizer Bar Mounting Bracket Nuts 40-55 Nm (30-40 ft. lbs.)

What about the top endlink bolt to the frame?
What about the bottom endlink bolt?

 

[swshawaii]

The ES 4.5153G (Graphite impregnated) kit may be the best option for you. ES does not sell the 19mm rear sway bar frame bushings separately, and the only other replacement I've seen is OEM. You will need to reuse all the hardware except for the bottom end link bolts included in the kit. Get under there and give all the bolt threads a good soaking with PB Blaster or another comparable penetrant a few times before attempting to loosen. Don't recall the top bolt size, they are threaded into captive u-nuts held on the frame and can be stripped easily. Wire brush everything, paint, and use the supplied bushing lube from the kit.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5153

http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/26139/axle-assembly-removal-and-installation.pdf

 

[swshawaii]

Or... stick with your original plan and replace with the Moog links and use OEM frame bushings. No chiseling or burning bushings to deal with. You just need to see if the top bolts and u-nuts can be reused. Keep in mind, the stock rear sway bar frame bushings are not split like aftermarket replacements, you will probably need to remove the sway bar to install.

 

[laneo9417]

Or... stick with your original plan and replace with the Moog links and use OEM frame bushings. No chiseling or burning bushings to deal with. You just need to see if the top bolts and u-nuts can be reused. Keep in mind, the stock rear sway bar frame bushings are not split like aftermarket replacements, you will probably need to remove the sway bar to install.

I think I am going to use the OEM bushings. What's the easiest way to get the old ones off the sway bar? Hacksaw? I, too, noticed on another thread that the new OEM bushings do not come split. Do you just have to muscle them on from the end of the sway bar and slide them until theyre in the proper spot? Seems like that may be a pain given the rusty state of my sway bar.

I also found a parts diagram that listed all the hardware and bracket part numbers. Most likely picking up a complete set of these just in case.

 

[swshawaii]

I've read most have used a hacksaw, be careful not to nick the sway bar. Installing would probably be far easier with the bar off the vehicle. Here is the absolute BEST street handling and safety upgrade after tires and shocks. The 1 1/8" EE bar is 3/8" larger diameter than stock, and much heavier. Unbelievable improvement but not cheap. Stellar reviews, search.

http://www.explorerexpress.com/swaybars-9801-explorer-xspec-sway-rear-p-357.html

 

[laneo9417]

I've read most have used a hacksaw, be careful not to nick the sway bar. Installing would probably be far easier with the bar off the vehicle. Here is the absolute BEST street handling and safety upgrade after tires and shocks. The 1 1/8" EE bar is almost twice the diameter of stock. Unbelievable improvement but not cheap. Reviews on here are stellar, do a search.

http://www.explorerexpress.com/swaybars-9801-explorer-xspec-sway-rear-p-357.html

I'm going to take the sway bar off but is that how the OEM bushings are installed? Sliding them in from the ends? I've come across many threads that mention the explorer express sway bar but I'm trying to keep this fix on the cheap side...my Ex is my second/winter vehicle and I try not to dump loads of money if I don't have to

 

[swshawaii]

I'm going to take the sway bar off but is that how the OEM bushings are installed? Sliding them in from the ends?

How else can it be done? :scratch: Lubricate, put one end on the ground and push. Don't cut the new bushings.