Possible Fuel Pump Problem?? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Possible Fuel Pump Problem??

Yea, thats about what I thought Al. The problem is, that I am not sure that I can get this done myself lying on my back. I am not quite the ideal body type for working under a truck in tight spaces (6ft tall around 270, semi pro football player) haha. Not sure what to do at this point.

Put the truck up on ramps or jack stands.

Just keep at it, it will work. And after you do it the first time, you will wonder why I thought it was hard.
 



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Well the thing is, normally I would just keep at it and make it work. But, I start an internship tomorrow and cannot afford for my truck to be out of commission if I mess something up. The main reason I stopped was, after having the metal tool not work, I went and got the plastic disc types. It fit and felt like it would work, but it also felt like I was going to snap the thing off too!!

This is the dilema I really want to get it done, and do it myself, but its bad timing.
 












I see your point.

Good luck ......

I really appreciate your help. I think I will wait until this coming saturday and see if I can knock it out.

What was the thing you were saying about the schrader valve?
 






For now, I am going to put some full fuel system cleaner in when I fill up and let that works it way through. I am going to only be driving the truck 20 min to a train station and then 20 min home at the end of the day. I have been driving it all over the place and it has been fine, so hopefull (fingers crossed) it will be fine for this week while it is not used much.
 


















no just press the little pin down and fuel will come out. 50 is probably there minimum charge and if you cant do it i'd take it to them. our min charge at the shop is a half hour which is 36 dollars and a 5 epa/shop charge so its 41 dollars for us to touch it so that isnt so bad and if it does mess something up they can fix it. but if you mess something up it would be a tow bill on top of that
 












Just wondering how your problem started? Mine, was on a night when it was downpouring and I was out after a wet vac to suck the water out of my room(basement). Did you issue start with any excessive moisture?

I don't think there was really anything that I noticed that triggered it. It just kinda started while I was driving regularly. It started rarely and not as rough but would get worse till I tried fixing the mentioned things then would go away and basically start over again after a bit.
The fuel filter was a pain to do on mine too you really need to just mess with it for a bit till you figure out the exact thing to do to get it lose then their easy. I kinda had to push the fuel line further into the filter the push the tool in then pull the line out while the tool is still pushed in. Its not difficult to do once you get the hang of it. Once its out the new one just slides right in, the hardest part is getting it out.
 






OK. So....
1.Unplug the Inertia Switch
2.start the truck(it will stall right back out) crank it a time or two
3.then bleed the schrader valve
4.Disconnect Neg battery cable
5.take off safety clips on both sides
6.use tool (find the trick to it)
7.pop the old filter out of the "clamp"
8.put the new one in
9.slide gas lines onto filter
10.re install clips
11.re connect Neg Battery cable
12.reconnect inertia switch
13.cycle the key, give it a few seconds
14.then start the truck and check for leaks.

Did I miss anything????
 






OK. So....
1.Unplug the Inertia Switch
2.start the truck(it will stall right back out) crank it a time or two
3.then bleed the schrader valve
4.Disconnect Neg battery cable
5.take off safety clips on both sides
6.use tool (find the trick to it)
7.pop the old filter out of the "clamp"
8.put the new one in
9.slide gas lines onto filter
10.re install clips
11.re connect Neg Battery cable
12.reconnect inertia switch
13.cycle the key, give it a few seconds
14.then start the truck and check for leaks.

Did I miss anything????

Wow, you guys make this seem hard.
Get a drain pan, disconnect the lines, duck, put in a new filter, cycle the key two or three times from off to key on engine off to restore the pressure, start the truck.
If you drain it at the schraeder valve you will have gas on your engine and on the floor, if you just let it fly and duck, you will have gas in a drain pan (and some on the garage floor).

Is the ck engine light on?
If the ck eng light isn't on, then start with the basics; air, fuel and spark.
 






Check engine light is not on, but it does come on sometimes. If I am going up a slight grade at highway speed it feels like it needs to shift, but dosent. I dont know if this is the tranny or not enough fuel or a misfire or ......

When the light does come on, it just flashes, pretty slowly for maybe 5 seconds or so. It doesent stay on, or blink fast. Just a steady slow blink then its gone.
 






Wow, you guys make this seem hard.
Get a drain pan, disconnect the lines, duck, put in a new filter, cycle the key two or three times from off to key on engine off to restore the pressure, start the truck.
If you drain it at the schraeder valve you will have gas on your engine and on the floor, if you just let it fly and duck, you will have gas in a drain pan (and some on the garage floor).

So do the inertia switch, then just pull the filter and duck? haha My problem is I was doing it with the truck and myself on the ground. I guess jacking up (jackstands) the front would make it a bit easier. More so than anything I am worried about snapping the little plastic tool that cost me 10$ for the set!
 






I had a hard time getting the lines disconnected at first but I thought that if I had three hands it would be a cinch. So my wife was drafted to get under from the opposite side of the truck holding the disconnect tool, then I used both hands to PUSH the line TOWARD the filter, then she inserted the disconnect tool and I pulled it apart. And she didn't get her hands dirty or break a nail!!
 






The parts we got when I worked at the dealer came with new clips, so let 'em fly!!!
Please understand, I having a little fun with you. There is a right way and a fast/right way.
If you pop the inertia then run it out of gas your run the risk of lean burning a hole in a piston, slim chance but still. When you just disconnect it and let it fly your only risk is known. You will have gas leaking, and if it's your first time it will probably run right down your arm into your pit and itch for a day or two. No fun, but that is one of those things you won't do twice lol.

**** Have you checked your air filter??*******
I bet it's clogged, sohc's love to breathe.

Pull the codes, even though the MIL is off, the computer stores the codes.
 






Rayz...even though I think that shop is a little high priced, have them change it for you since you are uncomfortable with this. But tell them for that price, you get to watch. Then you can see how it's done and can do it yourself next time. This is a simple operation, but it does have it's quirks and you need to ensure the new filter is properly installed. A high pressure fuel leak is not something you want.
 






The parts we got when I worked at the dealer came with new clips, so let 'em fly!!!
Please understand, I having a little fun with you. There is a right way and a fast/right way.
If you pop the inertia then run it out of gas your run the risk of lean burning a hole in a piston, slim chance but still. When you just disconnect it and let it fly your only risk is known. You will have gas leaking, and if it's your first time it will probably run right down your arm into your pit and itch for a day or two. No fun, but that is one of those things you won't do twice lol.

**** Have you checked your air filter??*******
I bet it's clogged, sohc's love to breathe.

Pull the codes, even though the MIL is off, the computer stores the codes.

Have a cone air filter. Just pulled it off and cleaned/re oiled it (a few days ago) and it still has the same problem.

If I have disconnected the battery since the CEL came on, will that erase it from the memory, I hope not because I have had to disconnect the battery a few times since the last time it came on.
 






re-oiled...?

have you cleaned your MAF lately?

and yes, disconnecting the battery will reset the computer, and you will lose the codes it had stored.
 



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Drive it a few times and the MIL will turn back on and store the codes. Then pull the codes. AutoZone will pull codes for free.
 






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