Possible Solution for Amp Popping Sound

[wharriso]

My subwoofer doesn't work but while trolling around the Crutchfield site I found the solution to the popular amp "poping" problem. This wasn't "linkable" so I copied an pasted the information below...

Most factory Ford stereos only send a 5 volt turn on signal to the sub amp. When an aftermarket stereo is installed, there may be a turn on/off pop from the subwoofer. All aftermarket radios have 12 volt remote outputs. To avoid the pop, you will need to add a 12 volt to 5 volt regulator in line on the remote lead. This item can be purchased at any Radio Shack, the part number is 276-1770.

(This regulator has three terminals: the first is the input, the second is the ground and the third is the output. The regulator produces a large amount of heat for its size and should be bolted or screwed to a clean metal surface that will act as a heat sink).

The first terminal of the regulator (on the left) goes to the amp turn on wire from the receiver. This will usually be blue/white or blue.

The 2nd (middle) terminal of the regulator will need to be connected to ground. You can chassis ground or connect to the ground of the receiver wiring harness.

The 3rd terminal of the regulator will go to the amp turn on wire of the wiring adapter. This will usually be blue/white.

Good luck!

 

[DOZIER]

What's funny is that when I was 16, I turn 22 on the 13th by the way, I had bought a brand new Pioneer radio. A nice one too. I was bumping my JL audio 12 w-1's before they were discontinued. Eventually I started to hear this radio thump or pop when the power was turned on and off. Well I wasted money buying a new radio from this guy at the stereo shop because he told me my preamptive outputs were bad which is why it did it. I bought a new radio and it still did the thump about a week later. I got screwed. This thread hopefully will help someone else who does not know. Good find. Very informative. My radio does not pop anymore by the way.

 

[68Restoman]

Thanks for confirming what I had suspected. I installed a new Kenwood HU last night and got the popping sound which I didn't care for so unhooked the turn-on lead for now. In reading my shop manual the test for the turn on lead is supposed to be over 4 volts so I figured it wasn't a full 12. I've done a similar mod on my '68 mustang track car when I added a racing fuel cell the gauge sender needed a clean 5 volt source. Here's a link to their instructions that show the same regulator: http://www.centroidproducts.com/mustang.htm

Now I just need to find a Radio Shack, all the ones around here have gone out in the past few years...

68Restoman

 

[Infinity08]

Those regulators are available cheaply at PartsExpress, DigiKey, Mouser, Jameson, MCM, and usually any little local electronics repair shop will have them. There's a TV repair guy who sells them to me. I usually get 5-10 at a shot, and he sells them to me $2 each. You'd think Scosche/Metra/AI would integrate them into their harnesses.

 

[kelly2]

or just put in a resistor on the amp turn on for about a nickel (think i usually use 4.7K)

 

[DMacLennan14]

or just put in a resistor on the amp turn on for about a nickel (think i usually use 4.7K)

i second that. cheapest and easiest way to do it!

 

[Infinity08]

Normally, I'd worry about heat using that method, but there's so little current drawn on that line that in this case, it won't matter.