Prevention! how far is too far? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Prevention! how far is too far?

Taking apart old engines = broken bolts

Yes candle wax. Trust me I use every trick in the book, torch is my best buddy. I also have a heat induction tool called the bolt buddy, very handy. But still pb blaster and now candle wax are on that same list
If it works it works…. Melt wax on the hot bolt… it gets in there and lubricated where the corrosion was

Gotta love the Information Age
 



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Making progress. Had to come in for a snack and advice. Also, what is this heat shield air intake thing? It seems like something I should not put back when the time comes.

Questions:
should ones intake normally look this gross? I know everything is super dirty, but if it's on the outside, it probably isn't hurting anything. If it's on the inside of something, it makes me stop and think. The ends of the injectors also look pretty grimey. I asked a parts store about cleaning and testing, and they said that they didn't and they didn't know that anyone around here did. Perhaps I don't need to worry. Let me know if that's a mistake. I will however clean out things that I can clean out once taken apart, like the intake manifold.

I've been referring to this thread 1994 Head gasket replacement / engine pull by arco777 a lot as I work through my project. It is a fantastic how to, but unfortunately, arco777 pulls the motor, so a lot of things done in that thread, I'm not doing. It's a little bit of a guessing game if I need to do a step or not. Currently, I'm working the exhaust manifolds off of the headers (so far no broken bolts, but I'm not done yet). After I get all of the bolts free, will I be able to remove the heads from the block, or will I need to go a little further with the exhaust system?

Any other "don't forget to..." thoughts that anyone has to offer up, it would be very much appreciated. This is by far my most ambitious wrenching project to date. Honestly, if I fail, or screw something up, it's possible that... well, let's just hope this all works out.

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It’s a pre heater for the airbox to keep the throttle body from icing up say if you live in Minnesota or Canada

I never ran mine and I lived in Colorado at 9000’ = cold, but dry

You will need to remove the fuel rail, (e7 socket for those intake studs), injectors pull out, then remove lower intake and either exhaust manifolds or the y pipe and then the heads come off
You can pull he heads with the manifolds on them and then get the manifolds off on the bench… whichever is easier for you

With the heads off you can finally access the lifters… silly design!

I do 4.0 heads in the truck all the time…
No biggie!
 






It’s a pre heater for the airbox to keep the throttle body from icing up say if you live in Minnesota or Canada

I never ran mine and I lived in Colorado at 9000’ = cold, but dry

You will need to remove the fuel rail, (e7 socket for those intake studs), injectors pull out, then remove lower intake and either exhaust manifolds or the y pipe and then the heads come off
You can pull he heads with the manifolds on them and then get the manifolds off on the bench… whichever is easier for you

With the heads off you can finally access the lifters… silly design!

I do 4.0 heads in the truck all the time…
No biggie!
I could have left the exhaust on eh?? Well, that might have been easier.

If I leave off the pre heater, do I take the entire thing out, leaving a hole in the main air box, or approach that differently. I'm in NE Oregon. I think the coldest temps I've ever seen here are probably in the negative teens, but rarely even below zero.

As always, thanks for the expert advice!
 






heads are at the machine shop. Hopefully I hear back tomorrow on what they find. Those cylinder walls look really good, don't they? I've got some cleaning to do before reassembly. So far so good.

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Any ridges you can feel with your fingernail?

3m rol loc tools make short work of cleaning the block after scraping


They go in your drill with the rol loc adapter
Most good auto parts stores have these (Napa)
Real time saver…. Coming from someone who does 10+ engines a year
 






That is a good looking lifter valley
No sludge and clean, super nice to see! Somebody knows how to change their oil
4.0 ohv we consider a half million mile engines around here
 






Well, the lesson learned is, "leave well enough alone," or perhaps, "quit while you're ahead," or maybe "don't be an idiot." All seem applicable. Anyway, I had the heads off via removing all of the exhaust manifold bolts from the heads, and it was a success. Then, I decided it would be easier to removed the manifolds so that I could mount them on the bench before dropping in the refreshed heads. This would also give me the advantage of more room to clean the deck of the block. Well, it probably took me 25-30 minutes, and probably only a cuss word or two to get the passenger side out- halfway there! Well, the other side didn't go that well, and the main probably that led to a no turning back scenario is that the manifold rotated a bit on the y-pipe as I was attempting to wrestle one of the bolts out, so it wasn't going to line up when reinstalling the driver's side head. I tried to pivot the entire manifold back into position by slipping a breaker bar into one of the ports and prying it back into position, but no, it was going to bend something before moving back into position. So, it seems that only option left was to cut the bolt and figure it out later. Also, bonus shot showing a little tool carnage, and a shot of how I had to cut the bolt mostly by hand. That's right, I worked that little sawz-all blade back in forth for a little while. Also, a photo of how the manifold was perfectly perched for a reinstall, before I went a head and made things a lot worse. Oh, and I think I ruined the dipstick tube.

So, now it would seem my options include:
1-somehow removing that bolt stud from the manifold. Not much purchase anymore, but I do have the advantage of easy heating and juicing. Might have to try the crayon option that 410Fortune mentioned. If I had a welder, I think this would be the best option, to weld a nut to the stud, but I don't. Might be able to do that at a friends house.
2-drill out the bolt and tap it out for a bigger bolt. Not sure if I have that big of a tap, but certainly could buy one.
3-find another exhaust manifold somewhere.

Any thoughts?

In other news, the heads are getting refurbed at the machine shop. The guy there recommended new valve guides and a handful of the pushrods and rockers weren't good, so he ordered all new there. He is also going to do new valve seats, so I think it's going to run a lot better. After all this though, I don't think the head gaskets were actually bad, but it did need the top end gone through, so I'm not going to call it a waste of time.

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A MacGyver welder is 3 batteries in series and use jumper cables. A coat hanger makes a good welding rod, it's an art to strike an arc.
 












Candle wax is a trick the old timers used to use before penetrating oil was commonplace
 






A MacGyver welder is 3 batteries in series and use jumper cables. A coat hanger makes a good welding rod, it's an art to strike an arc.
Yeah, this sounds pretty terrifying. I have a more than adequate fear of electricity.
 






Yeah, this sounds pretty terrifying. I have a more than adequate fear of electricity.
Not any worse than a 110V welder, just not as pretty.
 






I’ve got 16ea, 12v 350ah agm batteries setup in 4ea 48v banks… I wonder what kinda arc I could make with that!
 






I’ve got 16ea, 12v 350ah agm batteries setup in 4ea 48v banks… I wonder what kinda arc I could make with that!
More like, what would vaporize.
 






I've got everything cleaned up as much as I'm willing to do. I'll admit, I don't really clean for the sake of things looking good, but if performance or reliability are in question, I'll throw a little elbow grease at something. I blew out the water ports a bit on the block, that was super messy. I have drained the oil. I think the last thing I need to do before the heads come back from the shop is flush the block. I've heard a little diesel flush is the right move. We talking like a cup or two of diesel poured down the lifter valley? I was also going to follow up the diesel with a little bit of some kind of engine oil, then let that all drain out through the drain plug. At that point, I think I'll be ready to drop the heads on. Does that sound right? Anything else I should think about before the heads are done? Here is the current state of the block.

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Pushrods and rocker arm assemblies will be soaked in oil
Keep the drain plug out until it’s all assembled, this way anything that drips down in the crankcase can just drain right out
Does not hurt to put some oil or diesel oil or atf or pb blaster on top of each piston and rotate the engine by hand about 76 times give the rings a little pre
Lube

You can flush the entire engine with diesel fuel if you wish… you can fill the
Block all the way up to the top with a few gallons , let it sit, drain it out

The water ports just vacuum or
Blow them out. Let it all drain at lower rad hose even spin the waterpump by hand

Once it’s running you can do some coolant system
Flushes until nothing brown comes out anymore

Nice work! Thus far!
During assembly I use alchohol to wipe all surfaces, it’s way cheaper then brake clean and doesn’t stink or make a mess
I also sandwich most gaskets with permatex copper gasket spray…yes even the “dry”timing cover water pump and valve cover gaskets

Of course you know you need new head
Bolts,‘I dip them in oil before install

If you really want to get crazy you can pull each lifter and clean them… even take them apart and clean inside … tedious but you won’t believe the hardened crap inside that you can get out
Soaking them in atf or diesel
Oil can clean them too short of dismantle
Might consider re
Locating them too…
Many will tell you “you can’t do that! They just remain exactly where they are because each lifter has worn to the lobe on the cam” hogwash these are hydraulic lifters with lots of squish they can be moved around with no ill effects
You see cylinders 3 and 6 get the least amount of oil over the life of a 4.0 so the lifters and rocker arms take th e most wear… so why not move them to 1 and 4? I do

Inspect the rocker tips and pushrod cups very carefully… any that show excessive wear or pitting I replace
With junk yard parts

Hope this helps

<————————— been inside many 4.0 ohv engines… many
 






Little dabs of rtv when you set the lower intake gaskets, where the heads meet the block and where the gaskets come together at the lifter valley.
Clean, dry, dab, let setup, set gasket, another dab on top,
Let setup, then drop on lower intake

Where the heads meet the intake under the
Valve
Covers… same thing pre dab and then dab again
 



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Little dabs of rtv when you set the lower intake gaskets, where the heads meet the block and where the gaskets come together at the lifter valley.
Clean, dry, dab, let setup, set gasket, another dab on top,
Let setup, then drop on lower intake

Where the heads meet the intake under the
Valve
Covers… same thing pre dab and then dab again

Game plan!
 






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