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primary chain install timing off

oh wow that makes things alot easier. glad i waited on your reply to start doing something.

Dont sweat it your knowledge is definitely worth the wait.

so i need to rotate the cams with the slot parallel to the head and the slot should be below the cam axis correct?

by right you mean passenger side correct?
 



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no need to rotate camshafts

Since you're not using the camshaft holder in the tool kit you can time the camshafts with both 180 degrees off from the crankshaft. In other words, cylinder 1 will be on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Don't attempt to rotate the camshafts 180 degrees after loosening the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts because the pistons will strike the valves. Instead, time it with the slots above (rather than below) the camshaft axes. The camshafts can be rotated 30 degrees after loosening the retaining nuts without the pistons striking the valves.

You'll have to devise a way to hold the camshaft while you loosen the retaining nuts. You can either hold the sprocket or hold the camshaft while loosening (and tightening) the nut.
 






what is the torque specs on the camshaft sprocket bolts?

well how would you even find out the torque on them? theres not enough room for a torque wrench
 






camshaft sprocket bolt spec

The torque specification for the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt is 63 ft-lbs. The tool kit includes an adapter that allows the use of standard torque wrench but you're correct, for the right (passenger side) there is very little room between the firewall and the nut.

Here's a link to the Ford published timing procedure that I posted: SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing See post 4.
 






im wraping it up today its rainy out side and getting dark coated everything down with wd just to make sure nothing rust.

Im guessing the tightening of those bolts is going to be one of those get them nice and tight types of things because there is no possible way of getting a torque wrench on them.
 






alternative camshaft holder

The photo below shows how Sedition (who lives in Australia) kept his camshaft in position without having access to the timing tool kit.
Sedition.jpg

If you use this method I suggest using two adjustable locking pliers instead of one to increase the contact area with the camshaft to keep it from slipping. Also, place a pad between the pliers handle and the head surface to avoid a potential dent that might leak later. Note: it appears that Sedition has the valve cover gasket as a pad.
 






okay that was my plan.

so how should i should i torque those bolts? no room for a torque wrench.
 






click type torque wrenches

Many click type torque wrenches don't work anyway on left hand threads. At least one member broke the right sprocket bolt because he kept tightening waiting for the click. If there is room for a standard socket drive and a shallow socket then I suggest practicing on the left (driver) side. Torque the bolt to 50 ft-lbs and then use the standard drive to get an idea of how much effort is required to tighten it more. Then use the torque wrench to determine how much more force you applied and tighten the rest of the way to 63 ft-lb. The bolts are not torque-to-yield so the applied force is not critical. It does need to be enough that the sprocket won't slip resulting in disaster when the engine is running.
 






okay so ill pull off what ever is in my way on the drivers side and get a feel for what its supposed to be and then do the passenger side. because nothing is fitting on the one in the back other than a wrench
 






is it okay to use an impact to loosen the sprocket bolt? i removed the power steering and ac bracket and was able to get a socket on it
 






impact wrench

I have never purchased or used any air or electric impact tools. However, I have used a 4 pound hand sledge to strike a breaker bar on occasion. I often use pipe extensions (cheaters) since at 67 years old I don't have the strength I had when younger. An impact tool should be OK as long as it has a maximum torque setting and you don't let it rotate the camshaft if the adjustable locking pliers don't hold and the bolt doesn't release. That could result in a valve striking a piston.
 






SHEEESSS ALIVEEEE!!! i appreciate all your help buddy running much better and honestly feels like she has some more omph just judging by my ass dyno it prolly doesnt but anyway can thank you enough youre definitely the expert on everything 4.0 sohc haha.
 












me too man. btw i just wanted to share a good technique to anyone else doing this job. if you take a piece of card stock or cardboard with a straight edge on one side you can put the straight edge on the head where the valve cover sets and push the cardboard into the ends of the cam where the slots are.

With the indentation it leaves you can measure preferably with a micromenter the distanc from the edge of the cardboard to the indentation the slot leaves.

Measure both sides of the slot. If the measurements are the same your are good to go.

i eyeballed it at first then thought of this method and just it. Hopefully that helps other people doing this without the special tools.
 






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