question about k&N and MAS

[maxerious]

hello i think my MAS is bad almost positive i am gonna have the codes checked out tomorrow i just have a question it just so happens i put a k&n filter in it like 2 months ago and now my MAS is toast i get a check engine light and it runs waaay rich and rough but anyway can k&ns mess with them or is it just a myth k&n denies it of course but i just wanted some feed back seems strange for it to do it 2 months after a k&N went in any feedback would be great thx

 

[techieman33]

The oil from the filter can cuase the MAF to get dirty, you probably just need to clean it, you can get a bottle of MAF cleaner from just about any parts store for a few bucks, it should take care of it if that's your problem.

 

[manaen]

x2 on the cleaner, those things rarely go bad, they just need to be cleaner

 

[maxerious]

ok guys i went and bought a obd2 reader and it gives me p0113 intake air temp circut high input what does this mean?? any takers lol i hiope its the maf i bought stuff to clean the maf but looking for some feedback first thx

 

[maxerious]

i just read that the intake heat sensor is part of the MAF it self is this correct? anyone?

 

[maxerious]

well i cleaned the MAF and reset the codes and its still doing it sluggish accel a bit jerky under throttle Stong exhaust smell like its really rich no noticable black smoke though the check engine light hasnt come back on yet though.... so i dont know what the deal is but its definetly still doing it any help would be appriciated

 

[manaen]

check your fuel pressure, kinda sounds like you have a rich condition. Also I would test the MAF just to make sure it is within specs.

 

[99ExploratorySUV]

I might have an answer, but it's not good news. When I had my 95 mustang, I had a K&N as well. After cleaning, and re-oiling, I made the awful mistake of over-oiling the filter. As a result, a check engine light appeared one day, and the car became very sluggish. It was basically driving really weird. Took it to the mechanic, and he said the MAF was damaged and had to be replaced because the oil messes up the sensor. I hope this is not the case with you, but I just thought I'd relate my experience. From now on, if I ever get an aftermarket filter, it'll be one that doesn't use oil.

 

[manaen]

Even if the oil gets on the sensor, if taken out and cleaned properly it should work fine again. I have never heard of any case where the oil from a K&N filter actually damaged the MAF. the MAF is much like the O2 sensors, as soon as a code comes up everyone wants to replace them, when in actuality they are rarely bad. O2's get a bad rap because they are usually the first to report other problems with an engine, IE vacuum leak or fuel pressure issues.

I'm not saying they don't fail, I'm just saying they are frequently replaced for no good reason.

Diagnose first, replace later... There are tests for all these systems that you can run most of which only take a few minutes. Get a Haynes manual and follow the step by step instructions on testing the circuits. It will save you hundreds in replacement parts.

 

[gijoecam]

From the service manual:

The IAT sensor:

sends the PCM a signal indicating the temperature of the air entering the engine.
is repaired as an assembly with the MAF.

Seems pretty clear.

DA10 DTC P0118 OR P0113: CHECK VOLTAGE BETWEEN VREF AND SIG RTN
Refer to schematic at the beginning of the Pinpoint Test.
Disconnect throttle position (TP) sensor.
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor harness connector.
Is voltage between 4.0 volts and 6.0 volts?
Yes No
GO to DA11 . GO to C1 .

DA11 SIMULATE OPPOSITE SIGNAL TO PCM
With applicable temperature sensor disconnected, connect a jumper wire between the sensor signal and SIG RTN circuits at the temperature sensor harness connector.
Key on.
Note: If a scan tool communication concern exists, remove jumper wire immediately and GO to DA13 .

Access applicable temperature sensor voltage PID.
Is the applicable temperature sensor voltage PID less than 0.2 volts (greater than 120°C/248°F)?
Yes No
REPLACE suspect sensor. REMOVE jumper wire. GO to DA12 . KEY OFF.

DA12 CHECK TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL AND SIG RTN CIRCUITS FOR OPEN IN HARNESS
Note: Refer to the PCM connector pin numbers on this pinpoint test cover page.

Disconnect PCM.
Measure resistance of sensor signal circuit between PCM harness connector pin and applicable sensor harness connector.
Measure resistance of SIG RTN circuit between PCM harness connector pin and applicable temperature sensor harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE PCM. REPAIR open circuits.

 

[maxerious]

ya i am gonna go pick up a haynes manual today and test the circuts i need to drive it anyway cuz according to my scanner the pcm hasnt finished running most of its dignostics yet hence the no engine light yet thx for all the feed back guys i just wanna be sure before i get a new MAF but i used MAF cleaner and followed the directions to the letter so if cleaning would have helped it should of alrdy

 

[maxerious]

well i tested the MAF and the IAT and it seems to be working with my limited mechanical exspirince with sensors... but i follow the haynes manual instructions so i dont know what to think but the PCM did finish all the diginostics and no codes so i donno mabye bad gas? i put some injector cleaner in with this tank and i am just gonna drive it and see what happens and if the light comes back on i will run the codes again its still slugish and rough idle i also cleaned the IAC for good measure it does seem to get better almost goes completely away when its warm though so only time will tell i guess dont have the extra cash to take it in anywere so will have to just wait and see and hope it doesnt get worse thanks for all the info

 

[maxerious]

Well **** well now it through another code its the same one that i had fixed 5 months ago number 4 cylnder missfire i had new plugs put in and it was fine untill now does this mean my coil is frying that plug? i didnt put wires on when i got new plugs so i am gonna get new wires and a new plug tomorrow no since in replacing them all since the others are fine and only 5 months old
but can a coil be cooking a plug? i have no exspirince with this system used to distributers

 

[maxerious]

Well i couldnt help my self i went and pulled the plug to look at it it looked like it could be getting to hot and it was medium brown cleaned it up a bit and put it back in but its still only firing when it wants to very strange

 

[manaen]

the brown color could be from the fuel injector cleaner. I would get new wires, generally you should almost always replace wires with spark plugs. Oh and your coil cannot fry a plug, the only thing that will do that is pre-detonation, or cheap plugs. I always use the autolites (same as motocraft) platnums.

 

[maxerious]

ya i am gonna do wires today and theres nor pre detination and thats what i had autolite plats in there and thats what i am gonna replace that one with

 

[maxerious]

ok well update replaced the plug with a new one for good measure and got some high quality wires put them on and its running like a champ again as long as that plug doenst die Again in like 5 months if that happens its going into the shop Thanks for All your help guys as usual no one dissapoints on this forum

 

[manaen]

Glad to hear she's back up and running

 

[maxerious]

OMFG it killed the plug AGAIN after about 5 months or so i donno wtf it could be so frusterating i thought mabye coil pack but everyone says thast not possible as thers 2 coils one for 3 cyls and the other for the other 3 cyls so it wouldnt just effect one plug is this true? the other thing that some one brang up was oil fouling and if this was the case wouldnt i burn oil at least a lil bit or smoke during start up cuz i dont smoke at all or burn a drop of oil between oil changes man i am going crazy any help would be apprciated i replaced the plug and its fine again for now its a daily driver... but i dont wanna replace that plug every 5 months

 

[dmac0923]

OMFG it killed the plug AGAIN after about 5 months or so i donno wtf it could be so frusterating i thought mabye coil pack but everyone says thast not possible as thers 2 coils one for 3 cyls and the other for the other 3 cyls so it wouldnt just effect one plug is this true? the other thing that some one brang up was oil fouling and if this was the case wouldnt i burn oil at least a lil bit or smoke during start up cuz i dont smoke at all or burn a drop of oil between oil changes man i am going crazy any help would be apprciated i replaced the plug and its fine again for now its a daily driver... but i dont wanna replace that plug every 5 months

another thing that comes to mind is coolant leaking into that cylinder. are you loosing any coolant?? its obviously happing over a long period of time. but coolant leaking into the combustion chamber would cause a misfire. when you remove the spark plug, i know its tight, but see if you can shine a flash light down the hole and see if the piston top or combustion chamber is very shiney. if coolant is seeping in there it would act as a steam cleaner for the combustion chamber.