Bill MacLeod
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- November 18, 2000
- Messages
- 800
- Reaction score
- 82
- City, State
- Hamilton, Ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 06 Ltd V-8
I'm going to add to what PL said above. When I did this job last year, I removed the engine mount nuts/bolt and lifted the engine as far as possible. Then I pulled the manifold right out after removing any studs the would come out or just broke them off. This will give you the best access to the broken studs. If you can file or grind flat the broken stud even with the head, then use an automatic centre punch .Now an angle drill can be used with your choice of left hand drill bits or buy some small "sheeter"/stubby drill bits from an industrial fastener house. (small sizes like 1/8")
With all studs removed, clean out the threads with a tap if you have one. (M8 x ???). Clean the surface around the ports. I used scotch bright buffing pads. Anti seize on the new studs torque to 9 #. I used felpro gaskets and put a bead of hi-temp rtv on each side. Install manifold and torque nuts to 15-18 # Installed a second s/s nut to jam the first nut. Downpipe studs are torqued to 30 #. Did a heat cycle and checked torque.
Have checked each stud nuts twice now at 6 months intervals when doing an oil change. No nuts have loosened, ..... yet. Will continue this.
Hope this is of help to anyone.
With all studs removed, clean out the threads with a tap if you have one. (M8 x ???). Clean the surface around the ports. I used scotch bright buffing pads. Anti seize on the new studs torque to 9 #. I used felpro gaskets and put a bead of hi-temp rtv on each side. Install manifold and torque nuts to 15-18 # Installed a second s/s nut to jam the first nut. Downpipe studs are torqued to 30 #. Did a heat cycle and checked torque.
Have checked each stud nuts twice now at 6 months intervals when doing an oil change. No nuts have loosened, ..... yet. Will continue this.
Hope this is of help to anyone.