Question for anyone – 2002 Explorer Blend Door Actuator?

[Squilax]

I followed the instructions from another posting about this issue. This is the thread:Blend Door Actuator Replacement My thanks to Sleb for this information - it's been really helpful.

• I removed the floor console.
• I removed steering column opening cover.

No problems at all up to this point.

Next, I used the diagram for the “Temperature Blend Door Actuator – LH” and I located the actuator and the three screws that hold it in place.

However, here is my problem - I can’t get enough clearance to get my socket wrench in there to loosen the screws to remove the actuator. Is there some other tool I should be using to get behind the Lower Dash Panel on the left side, or should I remove this part of the dash? Does anyone have a diagram for this step? How difficult is it to take this section off?

Once I get the actuator removed, should I check to see if the gears are “grabbing” before I purchase a new one? I’m thinking that the clicking sound could be because the gears are stripped or broken and not connecting to turn the door axle. Am I at least on the right track?

In addition, as long as I already have everything apart, I’d like to check out the blend door to make sure it isn’t broken and if it is, then replace the door itself. It’s only a $12 part so it’s probably worth the effort to replace it rather than try to repair it. How do I get to the Plenum to do this? Can I pull the plenum out to check the condition of the door?

In the meantime, I've experimented with the blend door itself.

• I removed the instrument panel brace on the right side in addition to the one on the left.
• I took out both floor ducts.
• I can now reach up inside the dash on the right hand side and manually pull the blend door closed so I have heat.
• However, when I shut off the engine, the blend door goes back to the cool setting and to get heat again, I need to repeat this manual process.

This isn't going to work once I reattach the dash and center console. You need the console off in order to reach in and do the manual switchover on the blend door.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. I’ve already spent over 3 hours on this. I can only imagine what it would be costing me if I took it into the shop!

Thanks.

Steve

 

[Squilax]

Nobody?

please?

 

[Sleb]

You are doing all the right things. When I took the Actuator out I was on my back down by the pedals, the first bolt took about 10 min to take out, the second (which is on top of the first) took about 30-45 min to take out, I could only turn it about 1/8-1/16 of a turn each time and I just used a spanner to do it, it can be done it just takes a while. The third bolt (which is the one by itself on the other side) I got to by taking off the instrument panel center finish panel (that’s the one with your radio in it) and that one took 10 mins. Once you have got them all out you then can giggle and wiggle the actuator out of its hole. I found by sliding it up was the way to get it out. Your blend door sounds like it is fine I would leave it alone but just to make sure take the actuator apart and check to see if the teeth on the gears are shot. When you put the actuator back in you will probably only be able to get the first and third bolt back in, that’s fine, two hold it really tight anyway. So it’s a pain in the ass and very fiddly to do but it beats pulling the entire dash out steering wheel off and air bags out.

 

[Sleb]

Ask me any questions you want I just did mine 2 weeks ago

 

[Squilax]

Ask me any questions you want I just did mine 2 weeks ago

Thanks. I appreciate your response. I'll just keep working on it. Need to get an 8mm and 7mm wrench though, All I have is the socket set and an adjustable that is way too big to get inside that opening to the actautor motor.

At least it's great to have heat again. Driving home tonight in 33 degree temps would have been cold...

 

[rrgone]

Thanks. I appreciate your response. I'll just keep working on it. Need to get an 8mm and 7mm wrench though, All I have is the socket set and an adjustable that is way too big to get inside that opening to the actautor motor.

At least it's great to have heat again. Driving home tonight in 33 degree temps would have been cold...

Get a set of metric wrenches, you'll need them all sooner or later. I've got a set of nice long handled metric wrenches and then another set of el-cheapies with real short handles that come in handy for work like you're doing.

I'm surprised that your blend door returns to cold when the truck is off. It sounds like the door itself is working ok - not stuck. I'd replace the actuator and then drive it for a few days to make sure all is well before putting the lower dash parts and console back in. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Squilax]

Get a set of metric wrenches, you'll need them all sooner or later. I've got a set of nice long handled metric wrenches and then another set of el-cheapies with real short handles that come in handy for work like you're doing.

I'm surprised that your blend door returns to cold when the truck is off. It sounds like the door itself is working ok - not stuck. I'd replace the actuator and then drive it for a few days to make sure all is well before putting the lower dash parts and console back in. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the advice on the tools. Also about the actuator replacement and testing it out for a few days before putting it all back together. I really don't think there is anything wrong with the door itself at this point.

Also - I still have the PM you sent to me about this and will let you know how it turns out.

 

[Squilax]

as I suspected...

I got the actuator off. Popped the thing apart and found that the plastic (yes plastic - not metal) drive gears are stripped so it could not turn the blend door. The resistance of the blend door is enough to prevent the gears from meshing and turning the door from the cold to hot position.

I'm taking the gears into a hardware store to see if I can get replacement gears rather than buying a whole new actuator. If not at the hardware store, then I’ll try an auto parts store.

Thanks guys!!!

I am soooooooooooo close to fixing this problem and all it's cost me so far is $8.00 for a set of wrenches and my time! Big difference from $1,000.00 or more to have this fixed in a shop!

This is GREAT!!!

Steve

 

[jgfetterhoff]

Soon you'll be your rebuilding your own Tranny.

 

[Squilax]

Soon you'll be your rebuilding your own Tranny.

Ya think? LOL!

Steve

 

[Squilax]

no message - duplicate posting

 

[JerseyDevil]

Do they only seem to break in the dead of winter?

My heater actuator probably just broke from what everybody has described. Lost my heat and have the clicking sound under the mid dash when using heater control. No heat any more and it's freezing out!!! So I'll get out there first thing in the morning, and get the darn thing out. My dealer is open till noon for parts tomorrow, so I"m hoping to get it out and he has one. At least I should be able to get some heat manually in the meantime.
I'm new here so thanks to everybody's posts. I think with all the reading I know what to do. It's probably gonna snow sunday, so I need defrosters pronto.
Dealer said 400-800 but betcha he was planning on making it 1000 to 1200.
2002 explorer XLS, 50k 4.0L ........ Midnight blue:exp:

 

[JerseyDevil]

Update: The actuator had stripped gears inside. Dealer had item on shelf for 66.00, so I managed to get it out and back. About 3 hours without knowing what I was doing, but followed the advice on these posts. You guys were a big help. HINT - Put on max a/c on heat/cold control with iginition on BEFORE you pull the acutator, then be sure to activate the new one in the same position BEFORE you put it back in. The one from ford was not quite retracted all the way. You can tell by laying them side by side and compare the stem.
I had to remove the console, the steering wheel post cover, and the radio bezel to get to the top screw of the acutator. The acutator is mounted with 3 screws, which require an 8mm offset box wrench to properly access (preferably 12 pt). The box wrench was an el cheapo, but was a shortie .... that measures 4 1/2" long. It was a very short offset too. SEARS brand 12 pt, making it easy to get on the head to turn. It was perfect. With patience, and ingenuity, you CAN get all 3 screws back in. I used a very long set of needle nosed pliers to assist the installation of the top and bottom screws.
I am sooooo happpy its back in working order. since it will snow tomorrow and I'll have my heat and defrosters. Many thanks to all. With what I saved, I'm buying and installing an MP3/CD player. WooHoo!
JerseyDevil

 

[Sleb]

Good on you! you saved at least $500

 

[JerseyDevil]

Oh yea, get yourself a mini maglight for this one too!

I almost forgot, one of the major tools was my mini maglight to work and see the tight areas doing this replacement. I confirmed the clicking was coming from the unit prior to pulling it by putting my finger on it while it was clicking, and I confirmed the gears were stripped by plugging in the unit after removing it, and holding the shaft with my fingers with the ignition on and heat control turned up. Sure enough, a bit of resistance made it start clicking and "slipping", but without any reisistance, it was quiet moving. So I figured the gears or something inside was shot. If you simply tried to twist it after removing it, it wouldn't budge. So don't try that as a test.
It's winter, it's cold out, it's a lot of work, so I wasn't going to try to fix it for all the effort of removing it. I had to do it outside. The new one is warrantied for one year by Ford.
I also found out why my defrosters were so-so. There was a duct under the console that had a cap on it that had fallen off. I guess that duct is for additional heating for the rear of the console if added. I snapped it back on and my defrosters got about 300% better after I was done.
So thanks again all.

 

[Squilax]

Good for you Jersey Devil. Are you by any chance the same Jersey Devil from backpacker.com???

The gears inside mine were also stripped. I couldn't find replacements, so I gave in and bought a new actuator motor from Ford.

It is so great to have heat and defrosters again!!

Steve

 

[JerseyDevil]

Not the same jerseydevil ....... but

I'm not familiar with backpacking.com. But I do frequent fullsizebronco.com as jerseydevil. I am a ford enthusiast for many years. I have a pristine 1993 fullsize bronco. I bought this used explorer to get around whilst I install all the replacement parts, upgrades, etc on the Bronco. I just wish I had the room to do a frame-up restoration. This will come close to it though.
Glad to see you got your heat back. Yea, for 65.00 why bother fiddling with it and taking a chance? I figure ford has calculated how to build it cheap enough to last a few years, past your warranty, but make it a profitable piece to have to change out (charge em for the full dash removal). I was a mechanic for 25+ years, so I don't buy most of what the dealer service department tells me. I mostly call now for the free entertainment or just to annoy them like they have done to me so many times. The parts department is equally bad. Call 5 times for a part for the 93 bronco, no longer available. Call the sixth time (get somebody else and it's not close to closing time) and viola, can have it in one day. This has happened several times. Now I have become a simple pain in the ass. I have gone so far as to file a complaint with Detroit against this dealership. It did nothing. They still screw everyone. I have blackballed my local ford dealer from EVER touching another one of my vehicles, I swear. And I let customers know how to fix it before they reach the service bay, or steer em to my mechanic. I tell everybody at work to avoid this dealership and tell them my stories. I don't tell them not to buy a ford, just don't buy it or get it repaired there (they usually do more damage than good).
Good luck with your vehicle - and your dealer. JerseyDevil

 

[Uncle Timmy]

Ask me any questions you want I just did mine 2 weeks ago

How the heck do I get the console out. Mine is different than any I’ve seen anywhere and I’m tired of taking it apart in pieces that shouldn’t need to be removed. Just more screws to remove another piece of it. 44 screws and it’s as solid as when I started. I’m stumped????

 

[Papa]

I followed the instructions from another posting about this issue. This is the thread:Blend Door Actuator Replacement My thanks to Sleb for this information - it's been really helpful.

• I removed the floor console.
• I removed steering column opening cover.

No problems at all up to this point.

Next, I used the diagram for the “Temperature Blend Door Actuator – LH” and I located the actuator and the three screws that hold it in place.

However, here is my problem - I can’t get enough clearance to get my socket wrench in there to loosen the screws to remove the actuator. Is there some other tool I should be using to get behind the Lower Dash Panel on the left side, or should I remove this part of the dash? Does anyone have a diagram for this step? How difficult is it to take this section off?

Once I get the actuator removed, should I check to see if the gears are “grabbing” before I purchase a new one? I’m thinking that the clicking sound could be because the gears are stripped or broken and not connecting to turn the door axle. Am I at least on the right track?

In addition, as long as I already have everything apart, I’d like to check out the blend door to make sure it isn’t broken and if it is, then replace the door itself. It’s only a $12 part so it’s probably worth the effort to replace it rather than try to repair it. How do I get to the Plenum to do this? Can I pull the plenum out to check the condition of the door?

In the meantime, I've experimented with the blend door itself.

• I removed the instrument panel brace on the right side in addition to the one on the left.
• I took out both floor ducts.
• I can now reach up inside the dash on the right hand side and manually pull the blend door closed so I have heat.
• However, when I shut off the engine, the blend door goes back to the cool setting and to get heat again, I need to repeat this manual process.

This isn't going to work once I reattach the dash and center console. You need the console off in order to reach in and do the manual switchover on the blend door.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. I’ve already spent over 3 hours on this. I can only imagine what it would be costing me if I took it into the shop!

Thanks.

Steve

Steve, have you tried a box wrench with a screw driver bit, I assume cross tip? Might have to tape the driver tip into the box end of the wrench. You should be able to get into the tight place with that arrangement but if you need more upward thrust to say break the screw free an appropriately sized wood wedge under your box wrench and driver tip should help.

Best of luck.


Question, any reason you did not remove the evaporator in the engine compartment to access the blend door? Some found that an option on some of the older models though I don't know if that info is still current.


Wayne

 

[mountaineer2004]

If you're willing to do a little cutting, it's real easy.

www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2002-explorer-limited-dual-climate-issue.495359/#post-3909603