Questions Regarding Axle Swap Requirements

[Dubious_Downfall]

Alright, so I have a 93 Explorer 4x4 with a 41 axle code, so it's got 3.27 gears front and back, with open diffs. I want to put a limited slip 3.73 gear rear end into it.

The plan for the rear is simple. I'm just going to buy a full axle assembly and swap it in, instead of opening up the diff and replacing the carrier assembly.

I am under the impression that doing this swap without changing the gear ratio in the D35 up front will cause catastrophic failure upon engaging 4 wheel drive.

What is the cheapiest/easiest way to change that front gear ratio? Is it possible to swap the gears without involving a specialist or buying calibration tools? Or would it be easier to unbolt the whole axle and roll another one with stock 3.73 gears into it's place?

I can get a front axle assembly for about $300. I'm basically asking if it would be cheaper to buy calibration tools and swap the gears myself, or to just hire someone to pop it open and regear it professionally. Or is an axle cheaper?

 

[shran]

3.73 is a very common ratio and easy to find. All you need for the front is the center section/3rd member/pumpkin or whatever you want to call it - the aluminum case that contains the gears. Remove that piece from your axle beam, bolt the new one in place, done. It's a bit more complicated than that but that's the general idea - the driver's side axle beam has to be removed from the truck to get the 3rd member out of it. If everything is relatively clean under your truck, it's maybe a 2-3 hour project, more if you need to do any cleanup. The only special tool you need is a spindle nut socket to remove the brake rotor from the spindle as you disassemble everything.

 

[Dubious_Downfall]

3.73 is a very common ratio and easy to find. All you need for the front is the center section/3rd member/pumpkin or whatever you want to call it - the aluminum case that contains the gears. Remove that piece from your axle beam, bolt the new one in place, done. It's a bit more complicated than that but that's the general idea - the driver's side axle beam has to be removed from the truck to get the 3rd member out of it. If everything is relatively clean under your truck, it's maybe a 2-3 hour project, more if you need to do any cleanup. The only special tool you need is a spindle nut socket to remove the brake rotor from the spindle as you disassemble everything.

Now THAT is exactly what I like to hear. Now I'll just be eyeing my Navajo like a piece of meat. Lol. It has the D4 axle code. It would all be direct swap. The only difference is the manual hubs on my explorer require a different special tool to remove than the auto hubs on my Navajo.

Hopefully I find a donor before I sacrifice my Navajo to the truck gods.

 

[BKennedy]

I think swapping out the entire driver side beam would be easier if the housing is intact and not leaking on the donor. Replace the pivot bushings, ball joints, repack the wheel bearings, etc.., while you have it apart.

The driver side axle housing seal is prone to leaking. Replace that for sure while you have it apart.

 

[shran]

Yep... replacing the whole beam might be the way to go. I usually pull the 3rd member regardless just to inspect everything and change the oil.

 

[Dubious_Downfall]

Alright. Trying to do my research, but the Dana 35 "3rd member/pumpkin" swap is apparently not as easy to find as I had hoped. Go figure. Does anyone know of a decent build write-up or video of some sort?

Also, would anyone happen to know what Pick-N-Pull in Tacoma, WA might refer to the "pumpkin" as on their part pricing list? lol

 

[gmanpaint]

I have a small condensed How To on my registry. There are a few ways to get the 3rd member off. This method involves pulling the Dr side Radius arm out of the bracket.

Pugly

 

[Dubious_Downfall]

I have a small condensed How To on my registry. There are a few ways to get the 3rd member off. This method involves pulling the Dr side Radius arm out of the bracket.

Pugly

Big thanks, GMan. I will likely be following this closely since I can't find more info at the moment. I'm saving for the parts and a couple specialty tools while I do my required reading.