Quiet down interior?

[Harley McIntyre]

Good to know, thanks!

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Also, I feel like this might be a dumb question. Doing hubs doesn't require an alignment after right?

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Also, I feel like this might be a dumb question. Doing hubs doesn't require an alignment after right?

 

[Larryjb]

Front hub replacement definitely doesn't require an alignment unless you remove more stuff than you need. I'm not sure about the rear hubs. Makuloco removes some linkages to make the hub removal easier, so an alignment may be necessary. I'm not sure about the rears because I haven't done them yet. I think I'm going to have to, though.

 

[michael loibl]

No alignment required if you only remove the parts you are supposed to remove to do the job. Everything bolts back into threaded holes so there is no deviation from before it was dismantled

 

[Larryjb]

Michael, have you done the rear hubs on the 06-10? How much of a pain are those?

 

[michael loibl]

I have done one rear and 2 fronts and I’m at 145,000 now. Fronts are not much harder than a brake job.

Rears unbolt easily, but then the bearing needs to be pressed out using at least a 10 ton press. I removed my rear spindle from the truck in under an hour and then brought it to my brother in law to be pressed. A typical shop would press out the old bearing and in the new one for about $50. But lots of places do it wrong and end up damaging the new bearing

 

[Beachcomber86]

Oh wow yeah, I already have some random "overheating" issues where the fan will start sounding like a f-16 while accelerating from a stop then all the sudden it starts "overheating", it's random but it seems to be more likely to do it on a warmer sunny day. I know it's not actually overheating cause if I shut the car off and restart it it's perfectly fine again. I've read it's probably the fan clutch or the pcm. I'm getting the pcm and tcm updated soon. And probably the fan clutch soon also.

If you are having random overheating issues, check your thermostat housing. They tend to crack on the back side.

The fan roar might be the fan clutch wiring. Check the 'Ghosts in the Machine' thread.

 

[Uncle Jimi]

2006 eb v8. At freeway speeds ( basically anything above 60-65 there is alot of road noise and it's just loud in general, I have street tires so I know it's not that. Anybody ever sound deaden their interior? Or does anyone have any recommendations on how I could, maybe adding additional door seals? Thanks!

Have you checked you checked your door seals? If the car has ever bee opened by an emergency un-lock outfit (service) the door is probably bent or out of shape. Shut a dollar bill between the door seal and the car body, if it slips anywhere and the seal looks good you probably have a bent doorframe. I just bend them back. good luck!

 

[race302]

I'll wiggle the wheels a bit sometime this week when I get the time, thanks for the help guys!

I bought a used 2006 explorer and it had a bad bearing, I bought a cheap one or Rock auto and it had a would roar. Get a good one when you decide which side is bad, so you dont have to listen to it like I do

 

[J_C]

If your axle seals are leaking, you may want to do the Cv joints at the same time. Those could be causing noise too.

If you've done oil changes, you should be able to handle hubs and even the axles. The job isn't hard. Go to FordTechMaculoc's site and watch his other videos. He seems to be good (he used to be a Ford tech).

That's a bit of a stretch, an oil change I can do with one socket on a little ratchet and just rubber gloves for gripping the filter and keeping oil off my hands. No wheel removal, no jacking it up, no torque spec (I don't torque to spec an oil pan bolt, never saw the need), no special tools beyond what you'd have for general maintenance/home-repair... 3 minutes plus the time waiting for the oil pan to drain and the time pouring the oil out of your drain pan and cleaning up.

Granted there is a difference between what tools a mechanic who needs high productivity will buy, because that extra job or two a day that s/he can get done by working faster, more than pays for the tools. Home mechanic doing one-off things like a wheel hub, needs nothing much.

A breaker bar (and/or ratchet with a cheater bar extension on it) can get the lug nuts and axle nut off. Breaker bar or long ratchet without a cheater is reasonable to get any other fasteners off. Torque wrench you can get as a loaner tool from Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc (watch out for O'Reilly's MUCH shorter loaner period!) by putting a deposit down. A full range of normal size 1/2" (or sometimes 3/8) sockets goes without saying, hex bit or keys for the brake calipers, general prying or c-clamps etc for brake calipers, modest ~ 3lb sledge hammer helps.

Air hammer, meh just put the nut back on flush with the axle stud and beat on it with a Big F***ing Hammer to get it loose from the hub. Spray some penetrant on the axle spline to make it easier if it's rusty.

The alternative isn't necessarily spending that tool money on labor at a shop instead, it's just taking 10 minutes longer to do the job (if that), maybe 30 minutes if you count time driving to get a loaner torque wrench or a $10 big hammer at Harbor Freight.

Over a lifetime, it is good to accumulate tools to make repair and life in general easier, but it's probably overkill and a bad value to get a big air compressor and air tools just to swap hubs/etc on a vehicle. Besides, these days the kewl kids are getting Milwaukee et al cordless impact drivers and wrenches, which have gotten plenty strong enough in recent years to do any fastener you might find on a passenger vehicle, but either way you will need that big 6 point axle nut socket as *most* people don't have that size socket until they'll built up a pretty significant tool collection... might be 32mm or +/- 2mm, something around that size.

Okay. Looks like I'm going tool shopping too haha. I'll probably do the seals, bearings and any other preventative maintenance I can when I do it. I'm gonna be moving cross country towing a trailer around 3k lbs hopefully my 185k ex can handle that, as long as I get everything ready before I leave though I'm not too concerned. The way it's looking I'm going have to dump about 2k into this truck to get it ready. First car woes

$2k? That seems on the high side if you DIY the repairs. As above you don't need the rush that a pro mechanic has, can do the job fine with common inexpensive tools and get loaner tools for the rest. Seals and bearings aren't expensive, even (major brand) hubs can be had for under $150/ea.

However back on topic, just because you have road tires doesn't necessarily mean they'll be quiet. Especially as they age and the rubber compound hardens, road tires can still make a drone sound.

I'd let about 8 lbs of air out of the tires to see if this changes the sound, not drive around long like that, no long distance high speed trips, just a test drive to see what that does before airing them back up. If the sound drastically changes then it's probably the tires not the hubs, bearings, or axles.

 

[Larryjb]

That's a bit of a stretch....

In terms of tools, yes he will need more. But if the OP has the skills to do oil changes and interior modifications properly, he should have enough skills to figure out how to do a front wheel bearing. But you're right, he will need more tools.

3 minutes to do an oil change doesn't include the time to change out of day work clothes to clothes I can get dirty, the time to raise the front end (usually drive onto ramps), the time to get tools out, time to pour the used oil into a container I can take for recycling, and the time to put everything away. By the time I'm done, it's more like an hour before I'm all cleaned up. I could do it without raising the front, but I like more room to work.