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RABS bypass




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i found this video on youtube. i will bypass the module anyhow. and i might do my own write up anyway. if my pb blaster doesnt work i will replace my lines too
 






i removed my module today but i cant get my brake line out. its snagged somewhere around the fuel tank its really cramped there. im thinking of just reflaring it and re connecting it. does anyone have any tips?
 












i finally finished and bled my brakes and they are much better. this worked for me
 






Are you guys basically just connecting the 'IN' and the "Out" of teh RABS MODULE with a Union? Is that all it takes? Is this a steel line into the RABS ( male) and a Steel line out ( Male) so all I need is a Union and a little bending to get these to join together?

Why am I reading that he entire steel line to the rear was replaced? What am I missing?
 






Are you guys basically just connecting the 'IN' and the "Out" of the RABS MODULE with a Union? Is that all it takes? Is this a steel line into the RABS ( male) and a Steel line out ( Male) so all I need is a Union and a little bending to get these to join together?

Why am I reading that he entire steel line to the rear was replaced? What am I missing?

yes just connec the in and out lines with a fitting. in my case though they were so siezed that i had to cut them off at the valve. then get them off with a ratchet. then Re-Double flare them to connect them.

i replaced my line because i did so many bad flares and had to cut the line shorter every time i eventually ran out of line. and i didnt have enought fittings to patch it. but in theory if you can remove your lines from the valve without damaging them just connec them a union. :hammer:
 






There have been a few threads about this very issue. Its very easy to bypass the valve. Use a union to connct the ends together or cut them off, reflare with new 3/16 line nuts and a female to female union. I usually cut off the old ones, they usually rust up anyway.

All the valve does is pulse the system when anti-lock is activated. Its just another straight through piece of line otherwise. To avoid an ABS light, tie the valve up out of the way and leave it plugged in. The computer will think life is good and not put the light on. The brakes will now act as a conventional system.

The only questions now are: Do you have a line double flaring tool, and do you know how to make them? If not, it's really easy and i highly recommend getting a quality tool. I broke enough of the cheap ones that I could have paid for my expensive Craftsman the first go around!:rolleyes:
 






The only questions now are: Do you have a line double flaring tool, and do you know how to make them? If not, it's really easy and i highly recommend getting a quality tool. I broke enough of the cheap ones that I could have paid for my expensive Craftsman the first go around!:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, no sweat with the double Flaring.
I have run new steel lines on many cars before. Whether it was Trani lines or Brakes. There's no mystery there.. In fact just two weeks ago I ran a new steel Brake line from midway on the frame (cut and joined) to the back of this car; Replacing the rubber hose on the Diff while I was there. Had to cut the two ends off and put new male ends on the steel lines running to each wheel. I just am not familiar with what the ABS on the 'X' looked like. Heck the '91 'X' is the newest car I own.
 






Yeah, the only ABS thing in the hydraulic system on your 91, is that leaking solenoid valve. Other than that its pretty much a conventional braking system.

My 94 is the newest I have. I like to drive my cars not have it tell me how i should drive it!:D
 






hello,

thanks YBCOLD for the write up. one question, the union that you used. was a part that is easy to find at parts stores or is it a special thread. thanks again
 






nope it was easy to find. just had it there on the parts rack. the hard thing was the fittings. they didnt have exact replacements. even though the line came with new ones they werent the same size. so i couldnt replace the fitting on my MC. it was rounded from the PO. but i used some PB blaster to help get it off.
 






thanks for the help!!!
 






My RABS light is on full time on my 91 EX. It was intermittent over the winter. If I bypass the RABS will the light go out? I'm up for inspection this month.
 






no it wont. if i were you i would check the sensors. perhaps they are dirty. im not sure if you need where your from. it could also be that there is air in the system that needs to be bled. if you have to pull out th light bulb if the light makes you fail. i think in California a CEL atleast is automatic fail for smog check
 






YB,
You mentioned reusing the fitting, I cut the line coming out of the HCU almost flush to that fitting and left it with the OP. Do you think Ford would carry it? NAPA, Auto and O'Reilly sure don't.
 






its hard to find fitting. ford might have it. or if you buy new line they come with new fittings. the thread isnt an exact match to the original. but those new ones from the line match the other fittings i found at autozone like the double female. also if you wanted to reuse the fittings buy new line, cutt the tip off both ends and put the old fittings on the line and then reflare. i think thats what i did. just keep the new ones in ur parts bin.
 






I've got a spare used one off of one of the explorers I'm cutting up if someone needs one. PM me for details
 






I guess what I'm looking for is an adapter. I have the new 3/16ths brake line and a Reman'd Autozone HCU, I guess the problem comes when I'm trying to fit the fitting on the brake line into the reman which looks to be a 1/4" or 5/16".
No one's had a problem with this? It's the Cardone Reman HCU.

FIND, thanks for the offer but I think I'll try the dealership first. :)
 



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from what i have read the remanufactured HCUs have different threads. do any of the fittings fit the new HCU? my next guess would be to search the interwebs for fittings and adapters if u cant find fittings for the HCU.
 






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