Rack & Pinion How To Illustration & Nut Sizes?

[gavin]

However, interested in how you would pull the connecting hose from the hard lines? As it appears to be pressed/sealed on because there's no clamps.

yeah... I dunno.
I'd hafta crawl back under since it's been about a year since I did the job.

 

[madbrown]

Not a big deal. The rack's out, but my only concern is that I'd be sticking w/the old power steering hard line, and I would be sending in the core minus that line.

 

[gavin]

Not a big deal. The rack's out, but my only concern is that I'd be sticking w/the old power steering hard line, and I would be sending in the core minus that line.

my rack didn't come with new hard lines so I re-used the existing hard lines. So I'm not sure what you're saying.

 

[madbrown]

The one I ordered comes with lines and inner rods. So I was hoping to utilize all the new lines, but the old hard line running to the steering pump is still connected to the hose. I was not able to disconnect the hard line from the hose so I disconnected it from the rack. As it appears that the hose had been factory sealed or is just one continuous line.

 

[gavin]

so it came with 4 hard lines total?

 

[madbrown]

My mistake it appears that it will only have 2. So no worries on getting that hard line out then! Only the old gasket,oring, or whatever it was is toast.

 

[Westy]

gavin,
I just did this job this weekend and I wanted to post a quick thanks and a couple of lessons learned. Your photos and brief but thorough how-to really enabled me to tackle this. It took me about 14 hours total, working alone. Wasn't easy but oh so satisfying once complete.

-I followed your tip about leaving the pressure line, return line and steering shaft attached and it worked out great.
-I removed the radiator for clearance.
-I removed the passenger side inner tie rod before removing the rack, but I didn't have to raise my engine (1999 4.0 sohc 4x4).
-Once everything was disconnected, from the rack, I turned it to the left (driver's side) and pulled out the passenger's side first. This was the most difficult part of the whole job. Once I got the passenger's side out the driver's side slipped right out.
-When I re-installed the new rack (after transferring the lines and steering shaft over to it) I removed the driver's side inner tie rod, and slipped the passenger side inner tie rod in first, then threaded the lines and steering shaft up through engine bay and then I slid the driver side in. I bolted the rack in place and re-attached the driver side tie rod. The install went much for me easier than the extraction.
-Last thing I did was to disconnect the tie rod ends from the hubs, thread them onto the inner tie rods and reconnect the ends to the hubs.
-I meassured the ammount of visible threads on the on the tie rod before disassembly, and got as close as possible to that measurement when I put the ends back on. Even though my steering wheel was off a 1/4 turn to the right, this kept the alignment close enough for me to drive it to the shop for a real alignment. Steering wheel is back on center now.

Thanks again, hopes this helps anyone who decides to try it. BTW Pep Boys quoted me about $800 to do this job, I did it for about $200!

 

[Westy]

Also, just renewed my elite status by way of a thanks to the site. Anyone know how long it takes to show with PayPal?

 

[madbrown]

Finally will be installing the new rack, lbjs,ubsj, & rods in the next few days. As the parts took A LOT longer than I thought. I'll post as I go.

 

[gavin]

gavin,
I just did this job this weekend and I wanted to post a quick thanks and a couple of lessons learned. Your photos and brief but thorough how-to really enabled me to tackle this. It took me about 14 hours total, working alone. Wasn't easy but oh so satisfying once complete.

-I followed your tip about leaving the pressure line, return line and steering shaft attached and it worked out great.
-I removed the radiator for clearance.
-I removed the passenger side inner tie rod before removing the rack, but I didn't have to raise my engine (1999 4.0 sohc 4x4).
-Once everything was disconnected, from the rack, I turned it to the left (driver's side) and pulled out the passenger's side first. This was the most difficult part of the whole job. Once I got the passenger's side out the driver's side slipped right out.
-When I re-installed the new rack (after transferring the lines and steering shaft over to it) I removed the driver's side inner tie rod, and slipped the passenger side inner tie rod in first, then threaded the lines and steering shaft up through engine bay and then I slid the driver side in. I bolted the rack in place and re-attached the driver side tie rod. The install went much for me easier than the extraction.
-Last thing I did was to disconnect the tie rod ends from the hubs, thread them onto the inner tie rods and reconnect the ends to the hubs.
-I meassured the ammount of visible threads on the on the tie rod before disassembly, and got as close as possible to that measurement when I put the ends back on. Even though my steering wheel was off a 1/4 turn to the right, this kept the alignment close enough for me to drive it to the shop for a real alignment. Steering wheel is back on center now.

Thanks again, hopes this helps anyone who decides to try it. BTW Pep Boys quoted me about $800 to do this job, I did it for about $200!

glad to hear you were successful!
yeah the job took me somewhere around 8-10 hours by myself. Certainly not a quick job.

it's seeming/sounding like it may only be on the 5.0's that it's necessary to lift the engine; which would make sense, since the 5.0 block is longer than the 4.0.

 

[madbrown]

Yeah I didn't have lift the engine either in my 4.0

 

[dana88]

I didnt have to lift the engine on my 5.0, but I had already taken apart the whole front end to replace. It still took several hours, I'm just just glad the Rack & Pinion didnt have any issues like some others have mentioned, I was not looking forward to taking out that Rack again.

 

[madbrown]

Progress report: I got the new rack weaseled in w/ all the lines hooked up and steering rod connected, but haven't bolted it down yet. However, I'm having issues getting everything aligned w/ the sway bar. As I unmounted to get the old rack out. I've got it bolted back to the chassis, and tightened the brackets holding the bar and the "torsion bars" (don't know the name for them) down, but they don't seem to align back into the holes in the lower control arms correctly. When unbolting it ,I had help, but I knew it would be a pain putting it back in alone. Any input always appreciated.

 

[gavin]

I assume you're talking about the end-links, correct? The links that go from the sway bar to the control arm?

easiest way to do this would be to rotate the sway bar up and down to get one side in. Then get your floor jack, and slowly jack up the opposite side until you are able to get that one in.

that's how I've done it before, anyway.

 

[madbrown]

Still can't get sway bar back in. The link that goes to the control arm pivots on the driver side giving me some movement to play with. However the passenger side link is stiff and will not pivot so it will not line up. I can tighten down the driver side no problem but then the pass. side will not line up. If I try the passenger side 1st either the bolts line up and the joint won't slide into the control arm, or vice versa but not both. How the heck did the thing get originally lined up??????

 

[gavin]

what "joint" are you talking about?

have you tried lifting the passenger side, at the control arm, when the driver's side is started?

 

[madbrown]

The passenger side joint of the sway bar. I got it to loosened up, so I could get some "pivot", and was able to get the bar back in. At this point rack is hooked up, bolted, and ready to rock (fingers crossed)! Just need to dump some new fluid in reservoir. No need to bleed or anything else?

 

[gavin]

The passenger side joint of the sway bar. I got it to loosened up, so I could get some "pivot", and was able to get the bar back in. At this point rack is hooked up, bolted, and ready to rock (fingers crossed)! Just need to dump some new fluid in reservoir. No need to bleed or anything else?

there will be air in the rack and pump.

leave the reservoir cap off after filling it. Start up the truck, then turn the steering wheel lock to lock numerous times. Check fluid level. Fill if needed. Repeat until fluid level doesn't change. Then cross your fingers and take it for a test drive.

 

[madbrown]

"Lock to lock" meaning turn steering wheel in each direction until you can't turn anymore?

 

[madbrown]

Anyhow, got the rack, lb & ubjs, inner/outer tie rods in! Just need to install dust shields (as I need to get some bolts seem to have lost them for 1 side), rotors, calipers, & brake shoes on.