Radiator leaking

[toughguy]

2000 ford explorer Eddie Bauer, the radiator is leaking, each day. I went to amazon and saw this one. has anybody used this one ? I believe this is 1 row, just found 2 rows. if this is good I will get it, if anybody knows better let me know, thank you.




http://www.carparts.com/details/Replacement/Radiator/P1824.html




http://www.amazon.com/Explorer-Radi...9-1-943-138-1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2000:ford:explorer

 

[toughguy]

bump

 

[beach]

I did mine years ago and honestly can't remember if it was 1 row or 2, think the later 2nd gens switched to single row and mine was a direct replacement so was pry 1 row. I live in South FL and never had trouble with overheating or anything like that. If you find a 2 row that fits then that'll be fine.

Word of advice, radiator swap in a 5.0 is a complete royal pain in the ass lol. I did a thread here years ago, but if you search you'll find how to do it. Such a stupid factory design, like Ford had drunk engineers for it and said have fun.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I did mine years ago and honestly can't remember if it was 1 row or 2, think the later 2nd gens switched to single row and mine was a direct replacement so was pry 1 row. I live in South FL and never had trouble with overheating or anything like that. If you find a 2 row that fits then that'll be fine.

Word of advice, radiator swap in a 5.0 is a complete royal pain in the ass lol. I did a thread here years ago, but if you search you'll find how to do it. Such a stupid factory design, like Ford had drunk engineers for it and said have fun.

^I agree. It was such a royal pain in the ass. Either way OP I think all V8 Gen 2's had duel row. I bought a 2 row for mine off eBay for 100-150 bucks I forget exactly. I think it was a spectra.

 

[YTF0rd]

look at the ones on rock auto.

they also offer a 5% discount code on the site as well.

 

[koda2000]

I've installed 2 CSF brand 1-row rads in 2 of my V8's. The first one over 3 years ago, the second a year ago. They work great, look and fit just like OE. I've never had any problems with the 1-row causing overheating (and I live in GA and tow). Think I paid around 100-$120 for the rads and bought them through partstrain.com (best price with w/free shipping).

BTW replacing them is a major PITA due to the limited space between the frame rails and the stupid A/C condenser clips. joe dirt has a good sticky on the process, but the A/C condenser mount clips will still drive you crazy.

 

[beach]

Here's my old thread with replacing the radiator, hope it helps, b/c you will want to march straight into Ford and drop kick every exec and engineer in the cajones after replacing a radiator in the 5.0


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230262

 

[koda2000]

You know, it's strange. I did my first radiator on a 2000 Mountaineer by myself and it was difficult but wasn't that hard to do. The second one was on a 2000 Explorer (identical vehicle from a radiator standpoint). On the Explorer there just seemed to be not enough room to get the A/C clips to slide out of the radiator all the way no matter what I did. I finally decided to just break them off the radiator. Installing the new rad seemed impossible to do. I could not get the condenser clips in. Just not enough room. Finally, with the help of my son-in-law we got it in, but I recall I broke some little piece of plastic off the driver's side in the process. Whatever broke wasn't important. I have no idea why the Mountaineer was easier to do. Same truck, same radiator.

The problem is that when Ford put the vehicle together they installed the radiator and A/C condenser as a unit and then connected the A/C lines. That made it really easy for them, but without disconnecting the A/C lines it makes it really tuff to replace the rad, but it's not impossible. I think you could probably cut a little bit of the condenser slides (1/2-3/4 of an inch) and that would make reinstalling them much easier. They slide into the radiator about 2" so removing a little shouldn't hurt anything.

Good luck.

 

[beach]

You know, it's strange. I did my first radiator on a 2000 Mountaineer by myself and it was difficult but wasn't that hard to do. The second one was on a 2000 Explorer (identical vehicle from a radiator standpoint). On the Explorer there just seemed to be not enough room to get the A/C clips to slide out of the radiator all the way no matter what I did. I finally decided to jut break them off the radiator. Installing the new rad seemed impossible to do. I could not get the condenser clips in. Just not enough room. Finally, with the help of my son-in-law we got it in, but I recall I broke some little piece of plastic off the passenger side in the process. Whatever broke wasn't important. I have no idea why the Mountaineer was easier to do. Same truck, same radiator.

The problem is that when Ford put the vehicle together they installed the radiator and A/C condenser as a unit and then connected the A/C lines. That made it really easy for them, but without disconnecting the A/C lines it makes it really tuff to replace the rad, but it's not impossible. I think you could probably cut a little bit of the condenser slides (1/2-3/4 of an inch) and that would make reinstalling them much easier. They slide into the radiator about 2" so removing a little shouldn't hurt anything.

Good luck.

I remember I had to file/shave down where the clips go on the radiator to certain angles (the slides I guess?), there was no possible other way to get the "direct fit" radiator in otherwise.

 

[koda2000]

I remember I had to file/shave down where the clips go on the radiator to certain angles (the slides I guess?), there was no possible other way to get the "direct fit" radiator in otherwise.

Yeah, you just need like a 1/2" more space between the frame rails to get them to go in straight. You need to pull the rad as far possible to the passenger side and the condenser as far possible to the driver's side. Not easy to do by yourself.

 

[koda2000]

Here's a link to the one I've used. There's also a $10 discount right now with coupon code PT15AUTUMN (ends 9/27).

http://www.partstrain.com/store/det...Radiator/2000/XLT/8_Cyl_5-dot-0L/CSF3279.html

Tip: Always install a new cap with a new radiator.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Just a note, if you install s single core to replace the a double core, there may be a gap between the fan shroud and the radiator. While the engine cooling may be fine, the gap will prevent the fan from pulling all the air needed through the ac condenser. I replaced a double core with s single core and put a 4.0 hov shroud on to eliminate the gap.

 

[koda2000]

Just a note, if you install s single core to replace the a double core, there may be a gap between the fan shroud and the radiator. While the engine cooling may be fine, the gap will prevent the fan from pulling all the air needed through the ac condenser. I replaced a double core with s single core and put a 4.0 hov shroud on to eliminate the gap.

I had read this too. I have no gaps at all. The new 1 row rads fit exactly like the OE original. Maybe they was 1 row too...?

 

[toughguy]

koda2000, did you go this route?

i will absolutley go with a radiator specifically indicated for my vehicle (thought i made that clear in my last post) and will most likely go with the 2-row autowarehouse rad for $123/free shipping, as no one has any experience with the Sherman radiator. i'm in no huge rush to change it, as mine leaks at the top of the passenger side tank, but only if i fill it all the way. once it's leaked about a quart it stops leaking and has never shows any signs of overheating. the truck isn't driven very much right now (<100 miles a week). it's kinda a spare vehicle at the moment, until my daughter's SOHC XLT dies. i just want to fix it before summer gets here. -thanks for your input.

 

[koda2000]

koda2000, did you go this route?

i will absolutley go with a radiator specifically indicated for my vehicle (thought i made that clear in my last post) and will most likely go with the 2-row autowarehouse rad for $123/free shipping, as no one has any experience with the Sherman radiator. i'm in no huge rush to change it, as mine leaks at the top of the passenger side tank, but only if i fill it all the way. once it's leaked about a quart it stops leaking and has never shows any signs of overheating. the truck isn't driven very much right now (<100 miles a week). it's kinda a spare vehicle at the moment, until my daughter's SOHC XLT dies. i just want to fix it before summer gets here. -thanks for your input.

I tried to respond to your PM, but you're apparently setup no to receive PM's, so here's what I said...

I'm not sure what your question is. As I said in my reply's, I've installed 2 CSF brand 1-row radiators with great success. They're currently $106 on partstrain.com plus an additional $10 off with the coupon code. I suppose $123 is a good price for a 2-row, but if I needed a radiator for another truck in my fleet tomorrow, I'd buy another CSF 1-row in a heartbeat. They look, fit and work perfectly. I don't know that my OE V8 radiators were 2-row to begin with, as I could discern no difference between the OE and the CSF rads. I often two a trailer, in the north GA mountains, in the summer and I've never had any signs of overheating.

Buy whatever you're comfortable with.

 

[toughguy]

I tried to respond to your PM, but you're apparently setup no to receive PM's, so here's what I said...

I'm not sure what your question is. As I said in my reply's, I've installed 2 CSF brand 1-row radiators with great success. They're currently $106 on partstrain.com plus an additional $10 off with the coupon code. I suppose $123 is a good price for a 2-row, but if I needed a radiator for another truck in my fleet tomorrow, I'd buy another CSF 1-row in a heartbeat. They look, fit and work perfectly. I don't know that my OE V8 radiators were 2-row to begin with, as I could discern no difference between the OE and the CSF rads. I often two a trailer, in the north GA mountains, in the summer and I've never had any signs of overheating.

Buy whatever you're comfortable with.

I chose ROCKAUTO, with the discount code. and I thank you Mr.koda2000 I read your posts and answers and you know what your talking about.


OSC 2308
B
$105.79 $105.79 Remove Part
Click to Jump to This Part Listing in the Part CatalogCooling System : Radiator Cap

GATES 31336 {#33044, 7031406, 7031712} Mini Cap (Closed System) - (SAE Range 14-18 psi) OE Type
16 psi Pressure Rating A
$4.71 $4.71 Remove Part

MOTORCRAFT JK6942AA {#F77E8620PB, F77Z8620PB}
$26.79 $26.79 Remove Part

MOTORCRAFT FL820S {#F1AZ6731BD, FL820, KM3251F, U2J3C442AA, XW4E6714DA, Z19805BA} High-quality; Recommended by Ford Motor Company