Radio Issues - Power Windows/Etc. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Radio Issues - Power Windows/Etc.

98blubrd

New Member
Joined
July 19, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Cape Coral, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer Sport Trac
Went to the Sport Trac this morning and smell that burnt electronic smell. Key fob was not working, car would ding like the keys were in the ignition (when they weren't) and the radio wasn't working. Did some trouble shooting and pulled the radio and it seems to be the culprit. Radio has a burnt spot and reaks like burnt electronics.

Once I unhook the radio the vehicle doesn't ding like the keys are in the ignition and the fob is working. I was just going to drive around with no radio hooked up until I order a new one. I noticed that with the radio disconnected the windows and back window will not operate. Once I hook the radio up they work (but then I get the other issues back).

Does the radio have to be hooked up to provide power to the windows? Will this all function properly once I connect an aftermarket deck? I also noticed that when I adjust the dimmer switch the relays (in the cab by the drivers right foot area) make a crackle noise. I have checked all wires and nothing seems to be damaged. Anyone have any similar problems or input?
 






Well to update anyone interested. Got the new radio all set up and working, done a bit of troubleshooting before installing. I had the local autoparts store scan a code that I was getting (turned out to be rear o2, so not related to the issue). I told the guy what was happened with the radio and the idiot took out fuse 20 (to inspect it) and put it in slot 23 (blank circuit). The windows weren't working due to the fuse being replaced in the wrong spot.

Long story short, I am assuming the radio was so fried that it must have been backfeeding power from the 12v constant through the circuit (even with no fues in place). 12 V constant still had power with the fuse removed. This is the only explanation I can think the windows would work without a fuse in the panel for that circuit.
 






i wonder if the radio has 2 power sources. one during ignition ON and accessories ON and one constant power to keep the clock running even though the display is blank. maybe when the radio shorted out it was the constant power that was causing the back-feed.
 






That was exactly it. When I was trouble shooting I was getting frustrated because I had constant 12v with the key on or off (yellow on the aftermarket wire harness). But the actual key on power (red) had nothing with the key in the on position. Once I realized the fuse was in the wrong spot all was well.
 






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