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RAP module replacement

aldive

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 XLT
My remote entry system has been acting up and finally stopped working. Not a great calamity but a royal pain in the arse when one is accustomed to using the remote.

The culprit in this situation was the RAP module ( Remote Anti-theft Personality module ). The little “black box” ( which is actually white ) controls the anti-theft system and the keyless entry system. The RAP module “talks” to the GEM ( General Electronics Module ) to request that the interior lights be turned ON/OFF with use of the keyless entry remote transmitter, and the GEM converses with the RAP to notify when the door is opened.

Ford, in its inestimable insight, located this module behind the left side rear quarter trim panel. Regrettably, they didn’t make the access hatch a little longer or simply place the RAP module more toward the rear. This plastic panel must be removed to take out the RAP module.

The RAP module, Ford part number F87Z15604AA, cost me $179.12 shipped to my door ( with sales tax ) from Torrie at Fast Parts Network ( http://www.fastpartsnetwork.com/ ). The new RAP module comes with a plastic card with the permanent 5 digit code for one’s records.

The first step in the install was to detach the negative battery cable.

This was followed by the removal of the driver’s side quarter trim panel. First, the liftgate scuff plate was loosened on the driver’s side by prying up the pins with a panel removal tool. Then the rear power lock switch assembly was then removed and the electrical connector disconnected. Next, my 115v duplex outlet ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37851&highlight=power+outlet ) and 12v outlet were removed. This was followed by pulling the carpet back slightly and removing the 3 rear quarter trim panel screws. The 6 pin-type retainers were then removed with a panel tool. Subsequently, the bolt holding the seat belt guide was removed with a Torx T-50 bit followed by removing the seat belt anchor nut ( 18mm ). The seat belt was threaded through the quarter panel and then the quarter trim panel was removed to gain access to the RAP module.

The two electrical connectors on the RAP module were then disconnected. The RAP module was secured with two hex head screws ( 7/32” ) that were detached and the RAP module removed. The two metal mounting brackets were then removed from the RAP module and positioned on the new one.

To install the new RAP module, the above procedure was reversed.

Be sure to make note of the 5 digit code number on the sticker on the new RAP module ( I put it in a notebook with passwords and codes and stored it in my safe ). This was needed to program a new custom keypad entry code ( note: the factory code will also still work ).

To program a new access code:
1. Enter the permanent code ( from the RAP module sticker ) on the keyless entry keypad on the driver’s door.
2. Press the 1/2 button within 5 seconds of last digit of permanent code. (This alerts system to accept new code.)
3. Enter alternate 5-digit code. Do not exceed 5 seconds between entering digits or between pressing the 1/2 button and entering the first digit.
4. Verify that the new code works.

All of the remotes must be reprogrammed in order to function with the new RAP module.

To program the remotes:
1. Make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed or triggered.
2. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN eight times within ten seconds, ending in RUN. If the RAP module has successfully entered program mode, it will lock and then unlock all doors.
3. Press any button on a keyless entry remote transmitter and the doors will lock and then unlock to confirm that each keyless entry remote transmitter has been programmed.
4. If the door locks do not respond for any keyless entry remote transmitter, wait several seconds and press the button again
5. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, or wait up to 20 seconds after step 2, to exit program mode. If a key less entry remote transmitter has been programmed (or reprogrammed), the RAP module will lock and unlock all doors one last time to confirm
6. Note: when the first remote is programmed, all existing remotes are erased.
7. Repeat for each transmitter.
The straightforward install took only 1 hour at a leisurely pace. The most time consuming and pain in the arse part was the removal/replacement of the rear quarter trim panel.

Oh what a pleasure to have remote control once again.
 

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Cause of RAP module failure

There is actually a TSB for this problem.

# TSB #BC0012970201 -- CUSTOMERS REPORT INOPERABLE REMOTE ENTRY OR KEYLESS ENTRY FEATURE. THE CAUSE HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AS A STATIC BUILD-UP ON THE SEAT THAT DAMAGES THE RAP MODULE. *JD (NHTSA ID #51010, JANUARY 02 1997)

Apparently, the way to fix this, after replacing the module, is to wire in an extra ground on the passenger seat. I believe the wire should go from the bottom of the seat frame to the rail it moves on, which would ground the seat to the floor? I used to have a pic of it bookmarked, but lost it somewhere along the way .

Anyway, this would seem to prevent you from having your new module fail down the road.

If anyone has done or knows how to do this properly, could you let us know?:thumbsup:
 






There is actually a TSB for this problem.

# TSB #BC0012970201 -- CUSTOMERS REPORT INOPERABLE REMOTE ENTRY OR KEYLESS ENTRY FEATURE. THE CAUSE HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AS A STATIC BUILD-UP ON THE SEAT THAT DAMAGES THE RAP MODULE. *JD (NHTSA ID #51010, JANUARY 02 1997)

:thumbsup:
My 1999 has leather seats? I never heard of static with leather?
 






Sorry for bringing back such an old thread.....


I've tried a few different scrap yards (also Karl's request thread) for a used RAP module and everytime they always ask me for the numbers on the existing one? I only see the one product at fastparts, so why does it matter what number mine is?

Also if neither the keypad nor remotes work, is it most likely the RAP module is bad? I don't want to buy one and have it still not work.
 






Well, it appears there may be two different style RAP modules. One with external antenna and one with internal. That's the only thing I can think of.
 






I've tried a few different scrap yards (also Karl's request thread) for a used RAP module and everytime they always ask me for the numbers on the existing one? I only see the one product at fastparts, so why does it matter what number mine is?

This is so you need not reprogram the keypad.

If you use a new box number, reprogramming is required as in post 1 of this thread.

good luck ...
 






There is actually a TSB for this problem.

# TSB #BC0012970201 -- CUSTOMERS REPORT INOPERABLE REMOTE ENTRY OR KEYLESS ENTRY FEATURE. THE CAUSE HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AS A STATIC BUILD-UP ON THE SEAT THAT DAMAGES THE RAP MODULE. *JD (NHTSA ID #51010, JANUARY 02 1997)

Apparently, the way to fix this, after replacing the module, is to wire in an extra ground on the passenger seat. I believe the wire should go from the bottom of the seat frame to the rail it moves on, which would ground the seat to the floor? I used to have a pic of it bookmarked, but lost it somewhere along the way .

Anyway, this would seem to prevent you from having your new module fail down the road.

If anyone has done or knows how to do this properly, could you let us know?:thumbsup:
You need to ground both the driver and passenger seats
http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/techrx/2005/200501212d.html
 






Does anyone know where the RAP is located on the later gen of 07's?
Mine is an 07 XLT (mfg 3/07) and the RAP is not behind either side rear quarter panel.

I've removed ALL the panels behind the 2nd row seats and there are no modules to be found anywhere!
 






After reading many threads about these conditions I believe the 07 is behind the passenger side airbag and can be accessed by lowering/taking out the glovebox (?).
 






There is no RAP module on an '07.... They've gone to a 'Body Security Module' (since '02 IIRC) and its location has changed several times. Additionally, going to the CANBUS system has changed things all around... What are you trying to do?
 






This probably belongs under stock 1996 explorer.., but here goes.

Problems started with intermitent no crank, then remote entry quit working.
Looked around and found breaklights flickering - repaired broken wire to to breakswitch.

Have headlights, foglights, breaklights and flashers.
No dashlight indicators of any kind.
No blown fuses, relays or anything else.
Replacement (used and new) RAPs will both unlock drivers door, and rest of doors.
Even went so far as to pin-to-pin test every cable in the entire vehicle.
Also will not time out front seat courtesy lights (front dome) - stay lit.
Is this an EEC problem?
 






Is there any way to get the RAP module out so I can find my stock entry code?
 












I got it thanks to a mag light pushing the panel out so I could see. Thanks
 






Remote Door Lock help...

I just bought a 98 Explorer that doesn't have a keypad entry, only power locks. It also doesn't have the box in the back, I wasn't given key fobs so I dont know if they will even work on this SUV. Can any one help me out on this... Did Ford offer Power Locks without remote entry? If not, how would I program remotes in this case?
 






Thank's for the info above; Is there anyway we can make the vehical run without the remote..
Vince.1997 Explorer Uk.
 






My remote started playing up at the start of the week; thought it was the fob at first but it seems to be ok,the led on the instrument pannel flashes rapid when i press it.although the fob was acting up for a time there was no red led lighting up on it. but now it's back on and has worked once..
Any clue's..
 






Just got my new RAP module in from fastparts and the supplied instruction sheet says "this module requires a transfer of data from the old module using an appropriate Ford compatible service tool..."

You don't mention anything about this in your install, is this an unnecessary step?
 






Shouldn't be necessary. The RAP module only controls the perimeter alarm and keyless/remote entry functions. It's not related to the PATS system that would most definitely require a data transfer.

Try it. If it doesn't work, you are no worse for the wear.
 



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I'm trying to find the security code for my 07 E. Bauer explorer. Where can this be found?
 






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