Rapid clicking at startup

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn’t rely on the gauge as any kind of indication of what the voltage is. It’s if the gauge rides different then where it normally does that’s a concern. They aren’t “calibrated” in any way.

I’d do a “big three” wiring upgrade at the same time.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think maybe I’ll start buying and rebuilding these from the pick-n-pull. They have been getting in TONS of 2nd gens, and have a few 1st gens in stock.

I’m sure I have all the appropriate test gear.

 

[cober]

battery reads 12.1 is kinda low

 

[CDW6212R]

The battery needs to be checked after resting for a bit, not immediately after charging, or running the engine. Check it before starting the engine, and don't try to start an engine just to test the battery(such as after charging or shut down). That just wastes battery power.

With any starting issue, check the battery and alternator often, until you are satisfied that they are okay.

 

[fymbscu]

I had a three-destination run on Saturday morning after a slow 2amp charge on Friday. The first leg of the trip included some hill climbing to the destination, but was early morning and peppered with lots of green lights. Was reading 12.59 when home so I didn't charge ahead of Sunday's trip. Sunday went to same destination as Saturday's first leg, but later in the morning with more traffic and stop lights. Could see the battery guage steadily dropping as I entered the hilly region. Died at the side of the road at foot of last hill. Had to pull the battery and after a 90-min 10amp charge was able to get home. Next trip was Tuesday afternoon. Did a long 2amp charge that read 12.91 after two hours and went down to 12.63 after a couple of more. In hindsight, should have stopped at 12.91, but the previous slow charge peaked at 13.13, so I persisted. The Tuesday return trip was at night so lights added to the burden on the system. Rolled into driveway at home with running lights only the last mile or so. Another trickle charge before Thursday morning's trip. No accessories, but the gauge continued to drop again. Situated car to setup charger while I taught. Another 90min 10amp charge yielded 15.1V on the meter. Made it home without issue.

New voltage regulator with brushes was waiting for me when I returned home. Had just enough time to replace before leaving for afternoon shift. The slip ring shows wear but didn't have time to do more yesterday. A rebuild will be needed sooner rather than later, but I did buy me some time to handle it. On starting engine, got 14.24/14.23V on meter and 13.1 with engine off. After return from work in daylight, no accessories, running volts were 14.04 and stopped volts were 13.01. This AM, reading is 12.69.

Had some collateral damage to the air cleaner outlet tube. The stub out where the hose from the oil filler tube connects broke when shifting it out of the way to access the belt tensioner and alternator. I had to lash the parts together with some tieline.

I have 60 miles of driving over the weekend to see what code(s) this mishap may produce. Would it be okay to repair with rubber cement?

 

[Explorer2.0]

Maybe try a Heater Hose Connector of some sort?

 

[Mbrooks420]

You can repair it with anything that’ll seal. I’d try something more industrial than rubber cement though. After being deeply discharged so many times your battery is likely junk as well.

 

[RoyKelly2]

I'd use plastic expoxy to fix the hose and echo that you battery probaly will need replacing sooner than you may like

 

[CDW6212R]

Check the battery voltage before charging it, or starting the engine. Don't check the voltage just after the battery charger is turned off, that isn't the voltage at stable rest condition, wait a while before testing it. Same for after the engine is run and shut down, wait for the engine to cool down, then check the battery voltage.

 

[J_C]

I have 60 miles of driving over the weekend to see what code(s) this mishap may produce. Would it be okay to repair with rubber cement?

If it's the rubber part that's cracked, I would thoroughly scrub it clean with hot detergent solution then use sensor-safe (non-acid) black RTV sealant, not just in the crack but also lathered on top and bottom around it, then point a fan at it and make sure the room has sufficient humidity to accelerate curing.

If it's hard plastic, scuff it up with sandpaper to promote strong adhesion, wash, put down a thick layer of epoxy, or even better combined with layers of cloth and more epoxy, sort of like laying fiberglass.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Check the battery voltage before charging it, or starting the engine. Don't check the voltage just after the battery charger is turned off, that isn't the voltage at stable rest condition, wait a while before testing it. Same for after the engine is run and shut down, wait for the engine to cool down, then check the battery voltage.

or just before starting in the AM

 

[fymbscu]

Sorry for the delay in reporting back. Turns out my internet computer took a dive over the weekend and took some time to sort out while mending the car.

Had a less than stellar test drive after posting last Friday, but only needed a 45-minute 10 amp charge to handle my Saturday driving. A return to O'Reilly said that the voltage regulator was still failing. Also charged before Sunday's trip for peace of mind.

On Monday, I found a shop that ended up rebuilding my alternator in an hour. Despite my paperwork showing I had a 95 amp alternator, mine tuned out to be a 130. The shop had a 95 waiting for me, but offered to rebuild mine when the alternators were set side by side and didn't match up. Even got a price that improved on what I paid in 2004.

Back to O'Reilly on Tuesday morning and the battery is now testing bad. Everything else passed. I've been metering the battery before my trips and it has always read above 12.60, ranging from 12.95, 12.73, 12.68, 12.63 and 12.60. So, I am surprised that the battery is being flagged as "bad." Went back to the Autozone for a second opinion yesterday and again their scope said the battery was bad and they were unable to test the rest of the system. With regard to testing, O'Reilly beat Autozone hands down.

Would really like to try and recondition the battery but with an important upcoming trip have opted to replace my Costco Interstate battery. If I don't get a warranty credit for a return, I will hold onto the core and recondition to see if it works.

BTW, the air cleaner outlet tube is rubber. Will go with the black RTV for that repair. Also, replaced the serpentine belt with the alternator.