Real problem...truck won't move in 2WD, just grinds

[IZwack]

IZWACK is my CO-Moderator. Holy crap that guy really knows his stuff. One of the most helpful replies I have seen on this board. A big hand for my CO-Mod (Who has had to carry the load here all alone for a few months!) Great pics.

That coming from the God of transmissions? <blush>

 

[96eb96]

How would I know that the bearings were going out? I'm curious so that I can avoid this in the future......

Oh - as for the possibility that I hit it hard on a snowbank....very unlikely. If I am in any form of snow I drop it in 4wd and get out slowly.....you would think I was a grandma the way I drive honestly. We did get quite a bit of snow so far this year, but I haven't driven the truck since we got it (I have another car and only use the Explorer on occasions now)

Either way, I would definitely be game for finding out how to avoid this next time lol

Its ironic that 100K is the factory specified interval to replace the rear diff gear fluid. . That is not a common failure item.

 

[96eb96]

IZWack Really knows his stuff...but maybe dummy would be better off getting a new internal carrier and pinion gear? He would have to set the preload correctly.

I would be VERY CAREFUL pulling an axle off a car on jackstands. That thing is no lightweight.

 

[IZwack]

maybe dummy would be better off getting a new internal carrier and pinion gear? He would have to set the preload correctly.

That would be the best solution but economics always shows its ugly head and at the bare minimum, he would have to buy a ring/pinion gear set and a master install kit. Labor to set up the gears at a shop will be at least $300. If he's going to do it himself, it requires a few specialized tools that most people don't have on hand. If he knows a friend who knows how to set up gears and can do it for a burger, then that would be golden . I mentioned "depending on the location" earlier because there is a chain of junk yards around me that will sell you an axle for ~$120 complete (brakes included) -- you just have to pull the axle yourself.

Also, with damage such as this, there is a small chance the housing and the carrier's deck plane might have been tweaked (not "true" anymore) from the stress, which would lead to a "whiny" gear set. The carrier and the housing are formed by casting and are therefore actually quite "soft" when compared to other processes.

But on the other hand, a junk yard axle of course also has its risks so yes you do bring up a good point . So I guess the question is, dummy, how deep is your wallet?

 

[gijoecam]

I found the problem!! He's running one of those new roler-less roller bearings on his pinion shaft. They don't support the shaft very well, and that's what happens.

Definately need a new pinion, ring gear, bearings, and you'll want to take a close look at the carrier and the carrier bearings. So long as you've got it apart, you may as well replace the axle shaft bearings and seals too since that'll be the only thing you haven't taken apart.

Be sure and flush out the axle tubes too... some of the debris may have worked its way up there too.

-Joe

 

[dummy]

You guys have been a huge help, and I appreciate it.

Here's my thoughts at this point:

Pull this rear end and drop in one from the JY. I'll take the one from my truck and rebuild it...eventually putting it back in.

I consider myself fairly mechanically inclined - I have just never touched a rear ends internals. I don't shy away from things like this, though - and I have access to any of the tools I'll need and am lucky enough to have a friend who manages a service department who will allow me to drop a few bucks to his guys for a small side job if I need help setting up the gears.

Might as well share a little about myself here so you guys know a little about me. I live in the far south-west Chicago suburbs (in the country) - still F-ing windy and cold here at times lol

My project car was a 1990 Nissan 300ZX twin turbo. I've done all of the work myself (minus bore and hone of the block) including a full tear down of the engine with upgraded pistons, rods, injectors, intercoolers, turbos, full suspension...blah blah blah. It's sitting in the garage waiting for spring so that I can tune it properly and should hit 650-700rwhp on race fuel. I love to work on cars...just not when they break down - I prefer to do it on my own sweet-ass time

Thanks again for all of the help guys, I'll definitely be hanging around here now. I'm sure I'll have more questions on the rear end today - so I'll leave with a few shots of the car

PS - ignore the white wheels....I'm painting them silver this spring.

 

[dummy]

Well, best news so far.....

closest and first junkyard I called has one sitting on the shelf for $150. Not bad, so I'll give it a few hours and head over to pick it up. Be prepared to get bombarded with the questions later

 

[dummy]

Before I go - is the number of the gearset (D4 / 64 is what I need like you said) stamped on there somewhere? I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to picking this thing up......

 

[96eb96]

We would rather see a modded Thunderbird or Mustang here :

The best thing is to take the tag off your old diff(if it was there and match it up). When you refill the limited slip gears, be sure to purchase a little bottle of Ford Friction Modifier to go along with the oil. Otherwise your Limited slip wont work.

 

[IZwack]

closest and first junkyard I called has one sitting on the shelf for $150. Not bad, so I'll give it a few hours and head over to pick it up. Be prepared to get bombarded with the questions later

Wow thats a deal! $150 pulled already? That saves you from the dirty work of pulling it yourself in the muck/snow.

Before I go - is the number of the gearset (D4 / 64 is what I need like you said) stamped on there somewhere? I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to picking this thing up......

The actual gear ratio is on a small metal tag bolted to one of the bolts holding the differential cover on. It wont say like "3.73", but it might say something like "3 73" (with a space).

But the 100% sure way of telling is, count the number of teeth on the ring gear thats damaged and when you go to pick up the new axle, bring a 1/2" socket and open the differential cover (this is normal procedure but ask politely) and count the number of teeth on that axle's ring gear.

Also make a note of how there is an "S" spring in the center of the carrier. The axle you're picking up should also have this "S" spring if its a limited slip.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The ring gear should be stamped with the ratio. A reputable yard shouldn't have an issue with you removing the cover to inspect, but do ask before you do.

 

[dummy]

lol, ok ok...here's the 2000 Mustang GT -

Paxton SC and full Cobra body kit. dyno'd 430RWHP, plan is to pick back up on it later and swap the engine for a 351....run some good boost through it. Right now I have bigger fish to fry, but I won't let it sit long

I unfortunately didn't get much done today with the truck other than picking up the axle from the yard and beginning to take off the extra crap that they said they would remove but didn't (calipers, rotors, brake hardlines etc). Felt like ass today, but I'll be getting back on it tomorrow and will hopefully get it all done.

Here's your Mustang pics

May be for sale - 70,000 on the odometer and less than 10,000 on the mods - full list of mods available if anyone is interested....feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail.

 

[Turdle]

So, you want to go back to a pushrod engine? Cool

 

[dummy]

Yeah, that's the plan as of now. I love the 4.6, but let's be honest....it's not the Cobra engine (4 valves per) so it's not much worth modding this engine internally without swapping quite a bit out.

I actually have a 351 sitting in the parents barn that was used in a 94 GT pushing 600+RWHP. I'm figuring that using that engine and upgrading the suspension will make for a great car - and tons of fast.

 

[dummy]

FYI - I just completed the replacement, and all went fairly well. I would say it took about 6 1/2 hours for me to complete start to finish, but being the first time I have had to do this on my truck and the fact that the bone yard left on a lot of stuff I asked them not to....I would say it was pretty good on time.

One thing I noticed was that the write up on AutoZone called for me to remove the brake guards....I couldn't find a way to do that without pulling the shaft out of the axle, so I instead lowered the leaf springs enough to get it out with everything attached.

Thanks again for all of the help, I really do appreciate it fellas.

 

[IZwack]

Hey glad everything went well -- did you end up finding a D4 limited slip unit or no limited slip?

 

[dummy]

bone yard was a limited slip, so I feel like I got away DIRT cheap!

Thanks again for all of the help to everyone who offered advice. I did get a chance to look inside the bad one, and one of the bearings failed. It's odd, though - because there was no bearing "fail" noise, so it up and pooped out on me.

I do plan to rebuild it, looking forward to that!