Rear Antilock (92 XLT)

[Canuck055]

Noticed both the check engine light and rear anti lock light are always on. Check engine was told is a sensor problem, but rear anti lock comes on quite often. Found it won't burn out, and originally thought it was a power problem, but instead was told it was likely the rear anti lock. Any thoughts?

 

[westcovinajoe]

The rear anti lock brakes(rabs) on these go out a lot. It seems the cheapest thing to do is just remove them altogether if you know what you are doing or can have someone do that.

I spent about $600 just to stop a leak from a proportioing valve in the rabs and the module is probably bad too as the light is still on.

If I had to do it over I would just ask around about getting the rabs system removed.

Good luck.

 

[marragtop]

You can also try removing and cleaning the RABS sensor that is on the top of the rear axel. Only takes a couple of minutes.

 

[Canuck055]

The rear anti lock brakes(rabs) on these go out a lot. It seems the cheapest thing to do is just remove them altogether if you know what you are doing or can have someone do that.

I spent about $600 just to stop a leak from a proportioing valve in the rabs and the module is probably bad too as the light is still on.

If I had to do it over I would just ask around about getting the rabs system removed.

Good luck.

Is it unwise to just leave it as it is?

 

[Rhett]

The rear anti lock brakes(rabs) on these go out a lot. It seems the cheapest thing to do is just remove them altogether if you know what you are doing or can have someone do that.

I spent about $600 just to stop a leak from a proportioing valve in the rabs and the module is probably bad too as the light is still on.

If I had to do it over I would just ask around about getting the rabs system removed.

Good luck.

You should do a search for a post by 410Fortune that stated how easy it is to bypass the RABS on your truck.

 

[Rhett]

Is it unwise to just leave it as it is?

Unwise? Well, you don't absolutely have to have the RABS--meaning your brakes will work 100% without it. If the RABS light is on, your RABS is simply de-activated.

Now, for my *opinion* on the matter: If you are a good driver, meaning you know how to avoid locking them up in a spin situation, know how to avoid locking them up in a slipping situation, no you don't _need_ anti-lock, but it's nice to have. So "unwise" depends on how you drive.

 

[Canuck055]

I'm not a horrible driver. The light means it's deactived? Would them being deactivated have anything to do with the truck not burning out? (Don't worry. We treat it with a lot more respect now. lol)

 

[DeRocha]

I'm not a horrible driver. The light means it's deactived? Would them being deactivated have anything to do with the truck not burning out? (Don't worry. We treat it with a lot more respect now. lol)

nope... the ABS light being on just indicates the ABS computer has detected some fault or abnormality in one of the ABS sensors. These sensors tell the computer how fast each wheel is rotating and with a blind sensor the computer cannout pulse the brakes and just deactivates ABS braking.. Standard braking is not affected...

Not being able to "burn out" is a tune up issue... new plugs, air filter etc..

 

[beauboy]

Yo Canuck - RABS is a great system to have if you live in a cold weather climate (snow, lots of rain, etc.). Warmer, dryer areas - probably no big deal. I had a problem with my RABS proportioning valve (cost about $1000 to fix, and associated stuff) that caused my brakes to feel spongy. Not good. It worked for about 5 years. Now my light is on 24/7 with no noticeable effect. Probably a dirty sensor. If not, I ain't fixin it. 20 yo truck without RABS? So what.

 

[FirstExplorer]

The rear ABS saved my life once when I had no choice but to lock 'em up. I had the same problem and replaced the ABS computer. They work fine now. Remember, these Explorers will roll over on you if you get sideways. I would fix mine again if I had to.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Here's a quick check for you. If the light comes on when you first start the truck and stays on, then it is a problem with the computer or the RABS valve. If you start the truck and it initially goes out and doesn't turn back on until you start moving, then it is the sensor on the top of the rear diff.

The RABS system only has 1 sensor that monitors the ring gear.

 

[Delta_1980]

OK I don't know if the op is still checking this post or not, but you may just have low fluid in the reservoir.

Speaking from experience.

 

[bats]

How about a RAB light that comes on when you start the truck then goes off, in addition to spongy brakes? I changed the master cylinder and bled the brakes yet they're still spongy and the light still comes on occasionally.

 

[DeRocha]

OK I don't know if the op is still checking this post or not, but you may just have low fluid in the reservoir.

Speaking from experience.

Low fluid in the reservoir is associated to the Red Brake warning light not the yellow ABS warning light. The Red brake light comes on if low fluid or the E-Brake is on..