Rear diff model?

[Apexmaster]

How can I identify which gears I have? Here is pic of my door tag on my 02 explorer v6

 

[imp]

How can I identify which gears I have? Here is pic of my door tag on my 02 explorer v6

View attachment 324219

Axle Code D4 = Limited Slip, 3.73 gear ratio

 

[Apexmaster]

Axle Code D4 = Limited Slip, 3.73 gear ratio

I am having a hard time finding a kit for all the bearings and races can you help me out

 

[410Fortune]

2003 FORD EXPLORER 4.6L V8 Differential Rebuild Kit | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[imp]

I am having a hard time finding a kit for all the bearings and races can you help me out

In the past I have purchased bearings individually as needed from a bearing supply house. Most OEM bearings are clearly marked with part numbers. Other parts like shims, crush washers, etc., are another problem, may be bought from a parts house.

 

[Apexmaster]

Thanks, im trying to buy parts before I take apart carrier. I drive car daily and would be doing this job in 1 day.

 

[imp]

Thanks, im trying to buy parts before I take apart carrier. I drive car daily and would be doing this job in 1 day.

That's OK, if you know exactly which part(s) have failed, before seeing them all.

 

[Apexmaster]

That's OK, if you know exactly which part(s) have failed, before seeing them all.

So issue im having is the winding noise after 55mph while on the throttle. Once I let off it hoes away little bit but mostly on the gas. First I thought it was front driveshaft to front wheels because noise was under driver seat. I replaced it but it was not it. Then I checked wherl bearings found rear left hub bearing shot. I replaced and still get this noise. I will make video today and share link. Maybe someone can identify issue. I think its pinion bearings

 

[imp]

So issue im having is the winding noise after 55mph while on the throttle. Once I let off it hoes away little bit but mostly on the gas. First I thought it was front driveshaft to front wheels because noise was under driver seat. I replaced it but it was not it. Then I checked wherl bearings found rear left hub bearing shot. I replaced and still get this noise. I will make video today and share link. Maybe someone can identify issue. I think its pinion bearings

Pinion bearing noise ordinarily does not change in loudness with speed or throttle amount, but remains mostly constant. Noise which sounds like a whine and changes with speed and throttle amount, often going away when COASTING, is almost always GEAR NOISE resulting from bad differential support bearings, or damaged gear tooth surfaces.

Teeth damaged this bad would howl like hell, frighteningly!

 

[Apexmaster]

Oh ok. Thank you. I guess I could just buy a used low miles carrier for 200bux and just swap entire thing.

 

[Apexmaster]

Pinion bearing noise ordinarily does not change in loudness with speed or throttle amount, but remains mostly constant. Noise which sounds like a whine and changes with speed and throttle amount, often going away when COASTING, is almost always GEAR NOISE resulting from bad differential support bearings, or damaged gear tooth surfaces.

View attachment 324570

Teeth damaged this bad would howl like hell, frighteningly!

Or like you said open mine and inspect all bearing . Bearing are cheap.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

you can always pull another from a junk yard and swap it in while you rebuild yours its easy to do.

 

[Apexmaster]

you can always pull another from a junk yard and swap it in while you rebuild yours its easy to do.

True I found out my local yard has 2 3rd gen exploders.. just brought in 2 weeks ago. Maybe ill go grab one if still there.
Yes about 1hr of labor to pull carrier assembly

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

Yuppers then you can take your time working on yours, have time to get other parts paint it whatever ect. when your done you have a spare on one to clean up and sell that you can verify is a good rear.

 

[Apexmaster]

Does anyone know to remove rear diff which tools i need.
More specific the driveshaft to pinion bolts? Are they 12 point and size?
Also the 3 big bolts holding entire assembly to chassis?.
Would a carrier with 3.55 gears work on my Ford? I have the 3.73 gears.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

I think im not understanding. To remove the entire rear end all you have to remove is the four bolts on drive shaft think there 1/2 or 13mm been awhile. Your shocks, 8 nuts for your ubolts on leaf springs and your break lines. roll the whole assembly out from under truck. The gear ratio is not going to matter its just going to effect your mileage and how it shifts. Your going to loose some acceleration with it but its not going to hurt anything. I dont know what 3 big bolts your talking of. Less its been longer than i thought since ive taken one out haha

 

[Apexmaster]

I think im not understanding. To remove the entire rear end all you have to remove is the four bolts on drive shaft think there 1/2 or 13mm been awhile. Your shocks, 8 nuts for your ubolts on leaf springs and your break lines. roll the whole assembly out from under truck. The gear ratio is not going to matter its just going to effect your mileage and how it shifts. Your going to loose some acceleration with it but its not going to hurt anything. I dont know what 3 big bolts your talking of. Less its been longer than i thought since ive taken one out haha

Ur close but kinda off, no leaf springs here. All I have to fk is unfortunately one side rear tir rod and bottom tie rod. Im just asking about size of bolts on driveline? Most video show 12 point bolt . Either 12mm or 13mm

 

[imp]

Ur close but kinda off, no leaf springs here. All I have to fk is unfortunately one side rear tir rod and bottom tie rod. Im just asking about size of bolts on driveline? Most video show 12 point bolt . Either 12mm or 13mm

If I recall correctly, they are 12mm 12-point bolts. Only a 3/8-inch drive socket will fit in there, a 1/2-inch will not clear the u-joints. Socket used MUST be 12-point. I had to use an impact to loosen them, very rusty, plus I believe Ford used a form of Loctite on the threads.

 

[Apexmaster]

If I recall correctly, they are 12mm 12-point bolts. Only a 3/8-inch drive socket will fit in there, a 1/2-inch will not clear the u-joints. Socket used MUST be 12-point. I had to use an impact to loosen them, very rusty, plus I believe Ford used a form of Loctite on the threads.

Got it, thank God I have 12mm 12 point . What size are bolts that hold the assembly?

 

[imp]

Got it, thank God I have 12mm 12 point . What size are bolts that hold the assembly?

View attachment 324711

View attachment 324712

• Fits FORD 7.5 inch Rear End Pinion Flange
• Fits FORD 8.8 inch Rear End Pinion Flange
• Fits FORD 10.5 inch Rear End Pinion Flange

Grade 8 Replacement for OEM Ford bolt

Dry thread locker on each bolt for trouble free installation.

• M12-1.75 ....same metric thread size as oem bolt
• 12 point 12mm ..same head size as oem bolt

M-12 means Metric 12mm diameter bolt, over threads
1.75 means Thread Pitch, distance between two threads, 1.75mm.

The fact that the HEAD is 12mm 12-point is not related to the bolt size and pitch.