Rear Door Power Locks | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear Door Power Locks

gdgiordano

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 14, 2014
Messages
468
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11
City, State
Denver, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Ford Explorer XLT
1 door doesn't fire at all the other gets jammed. The one that doesn't fire at all used to jam like the other one. The child locks are off but the doors randomly act like they are on. I can get the door to open after pushing the pins up and down. Any ideas?
 



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Start by flushing out the door latches followed by lithium spray grease. Also lube the key cylinders.
 






Start by flushing out the door latches followed by lithium spray grease. Also lube the key cylinders.

Ok what do you mean by that? Like where should this stuff go? Door panal need to come off?
 






Don't remove anything yet. Clean the latch from the outside using PB Blaster, WD-40, etc. Try locking and locking
repeatedly until free. Have plenty of paper towels handy, lot's of dirty fluid will flow down to the bottom of the door.

For pics only.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284504
 






I had no luck... Only result was a puddle of wd-40 on the garage floor.
 






Could be an electrical problem, like a broken wire or a bad connection, but most likely the actuator (motor) is not doing its job -- either defective or the link to the door latch is damaged. Take the inside door panel off and check what's going on. If you don't see anything obvious, test the voltage between the actuator wires while pushing the lock/unlock button. If it's around 12V and the shaft isn't moving, the actuator is bad. Its held by a large blind 'banana peel' rivet that needs to be removed. I riveted the new replacement one back, but it takes a special tool. According to some members who posted here, you can use a bolt, secured by a nylon-insert type locknut.

1 door doesn't fire at all the other gets jammed. The one that doesn't fire at all used to jam like the other one. The child locks are off but the doors randomly act like they are on. I can get the door to open after pushing the pins up and down. Any ideas?
 






Could be an electrical problem, like a broken wire or a bad connection, but most likely the actuator (motor) is not doing its job -- either defective or the link to the door latch is damaged. Take the inside door panel off and check what's going on. If you don't see anything obvious, test the voltage between the actuator wires while pushing the lock/unlock button. If it's around 12V and the shaft isn't moving, the actuator is bad. Its held by a large blind 'banana peel' rivet that needs to be removed. I riveted the new replacement one back, but it takes a special tool. According to some members who posted here, you can use a bolt, secured by a nylon-insert type locknut.

Hm ok, Both the front actuators have been replaced before :/ looks like more the same. Is there any good recourses for what a good functioning system looks like?
 






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