Rear door strike plate holder FELL INTO BODY. Help!

[Javier B]

1995 Explorer XLT
So I was trying to do a simple adjustment to the rear passenger side door latch, and pulled the strike plate. When I was reinstalling it, somehow I managed to wiggle free and drop the interior threaded part into the rear wheel well. Now everything is 100x worse, hurray!

How do I get access to that? Do I need to remove the whole passenger rear window trim panel? If so, are there any diagrams or vids anyone can point me to on how to get that panel off? Or is there any simpler way to get to that? :-( I've got a couple of manuals but none show that panel specifically.

Please help!

UPDATE: Removing the panel, but stuck at the COAT HOOK. anyone have any clues about removing that? its a hex bolt, but its buried deep in a hole that is too narrow for anything i own to both fit in and also be large enough for that bolt. is this a specialty socket? Help!



2nd Update: So I *think* what I need is a deep socket 5.5mm, which is not in any of my kits, and I'm heading to AutoZone to get one and cross my fingers. NAPA also has them. Hopefully I dont have to post any other crisis. My 5 minute adjustment has eaten up most of my weekend, as per usual.

 

[EB4X]

Now everything is 100x worse, hurray!

That is a doosey ! I would drill large hole (2" holesaw bit) next to door strike and feed a nut/ washer on through hole.....maybe Ford threaded part is more elaborate / plate etc but this should do the trick. Then remove the drilled out round metal piece from holesaw bit and silicone it back in place.
*EDIT - Would do it this way for our OLD RIGS....anything significantly newer/nicer would do long way / removing panels etc..

 

[Rick]

Yes, I'm pretty sure you will have to remove that large plastic panel. If I remember you just have to keep pulling on it to find the mounting points. Get behind them with a plastic trim tool if you have to. Once in there I think you should be able to get a telescoping magnet down in that area.

 

[Javier B]

Yes, I'm pretty sure you will have to remove that large plastic panel. If I remember you just have to keep pulling on it to find the mounting points. Get behind them with a plastic trim tool if you have to. Once in there I think you should be able to get a telescoping magnet down in that area.

Do you know how to remove the COAT HOOK? I'm stuck there. its a hex bolt deep in a hole that is too narrow for anything I own to fit and reach. I've searched here and found other people with the same question but no answers. is there a special narrow socket? and what size? any clues would help. thanks!

 

[XLTrunner]

You'll want a 1/4" drive 7/32" socket (or, metric equiv.). Just confirmed it by using my std 1/4" socket. A heads up if removing the entire panel and that is there is at least one phillips head screw holding the bottom edge to the floor in the cargo area as I recall.

 

[Pete Deering]

You'll want a 1/4" drive 7/32" socket (or, metric equiv.). Just confirmed it by using my std 1/4" socket. A heads up if removing the entire panel and that is there is at least one phillips head screw holding the bottom edge to the floor in the cargo area as I recall.

Phillips head screw on the bottom rear of the panel by the rear hatch. There is a torx bolt for the seat belt.

 

[efBrianM]

A heads up if removing the entire panel and that is there is at least one phillips head screw holding the bottom edge to the floor in the cargo area as I recall.

Can't speak for 4-doors, but on our '95 and '01 2-door's, there is definitely a screw going thru the trim panel into the floor right below the quarter window. You can try pulling the carpet back, but the seat bottom may be in the way, only 3 bolts to remove it.

 

[efBrianM]

I had this happen to me on my 95 2-door. Kind of freaked me out not being able to latch the door and needing to drive it. But at that end of the trim panel, it's an easier fix. Still have the pass. side to do.
If you were desperate to be able to drive it, I'd cut the plastic part of the coat hook off, so you could get to the bolt easier.
Worry about the coat hook another day.

 

[Boomer88]

1995 Explorer XLT
So I was trying to do a simple adjustment to the rear passenger side door latch, and pulled the strike plate. When I was reinstalling it, somehow I managed to wiggle free and drop the interior threaded part into the rear wheel well. Now everything is 100x worse, hurray!

How do I get access to that? Do I need to remove the whole passenger rear window trim panel? If so, are there any diagrams or vids anyone can point me to on how to get that panel off? Or is there any simpler way to get to that? :-( I've got a couple of manuals but none show that panel specifically.

Please help!

UPDATE: Removing the panel, but stuck at the COAT HOOK. anyone have any clues about removing that? its a hex bolt, but its buried deep in a hole that is too narrow for anything i own to both fit in and also be large enough for that bolt. is this a specialty socket? Help!

View attachment 436676 View attachment 436677

2nd Update: So I *think* what I need is a deep socket 5.5mm, which is not in any of my kits, and I'm heading to AutoZone to get one and cross my fingers. NAPA also has them. Hopefully I dont have to post any other crisis. My 5 minute adjustment has eaten up most of my weekend, as per usual.

Same thing happened to me on my 94. I never touched the seat belt bolt or top pannel trim. I made sure things at the bottom of the pannel coluld move as free as possible. Took the bottom plate out of the door frame so I could move the large plastic wall pannel over starting near the floor and slowly peeled it back as I moved up the door. If you are lucky you should find your piece down in the dog leg and get it with fingers or magnet. There is enough room to position and install the striker nut without removing the pannel. I did it with one hand as I lost one in an accident so it should be very doable with two, good luck.