Rear Tie Rod End??? WTF?

[NotAFordGuy]

Our Explorer went back to the mechanic for another round of rear wheel bearing work and he informed me that my passenger side rear tie-rod end has some play and needs replaced.

My two questions are;
1.) Is this a DIY that I can do? I'm great at working on my own stuff and have a pretty good amount of the tools, if not ALL the stuff for a job like this.

2.) Is a full wheel alignment avoidable if I decide to DIY it? Any information on this would be a great help and Thanks in advance!

 

[bizzs]

I just did this job 3 hours ago. I went to Firestone for my annual state inspection and my Explorer failed because of too much play in the rear tie rods. I was quoted $700 for installation of both tie rod ends, state inspection, 3rd brake light bulb replacement ($30.00) and wheel alignment. I told the manager not to touch anything and I would do the work myself.

I researched the internet and bought the parts from advance auto. I placed two separate orders and used the $40.00 online coupons. I picked up the parts at my local advance. This saved me $80.00, and my final costs with tax was around $140.00, and I got 6 light bulbs with a can of power blaster for free.

The installation was relatively easy using the basic tools. I measured the length of the old tie rod ends and applied the measurement to the new ones. I took my explorer back to Firestone and had them do the front end alignment. Low and behold, my measurements were right on spec according to the computer printout. The funny part was that the front end needed adjusted out a few degrees.

I saved myself over $400.00 dollars today thanks to this great website of helpful information.

Good luck,
bizzs

 

[BarryCarey]

Just did there 2 weeks ago on mine. Really easy to do. Took about an hour to do.

If I recall it only took a 18mm socket and a chissle to spread the hole on the hub.

Got the whole assembly on amazon. Doorman 523-007

 

[03Explo20]

Read through my post here made just last week concerning this.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431240

You also might want to buy the Moog's instead of the Dorman's as I've heard of people having some troubles with those and the grease zerks getting torn off.

Moog: 800560 and 800562 for your 2003.

 

[bizzs]

You are absolutely right about the moog. I got one hell of deal on those moogs at Advance using those coupons. I had read that Dormans cause problems to the tire rims. It is worth the extra money to get a better brand name.

bizzs

 

[BarryCarey]

I was going to go with the Moog parts for mine. But the bar was so heavily corroded I wasn't sure I would get the parts on.

I read on the Amazon reviews a lot of people said the grease zerk rubbed the rim with the doorman part. I didn't have this problem. Not sure if it's due to the different rims on the EB.

 

[NotAFordGuy]

I just got home from doing that passenger side rear toe link. The old one was shot, so I got the Moog from Advance Auto for $58.00 and it took me about an hour from start to finish. I was learning a little as I went, so I was taking it slow. All in all, I feel it was a total success. I had play before the swap, and now that wheel is rock solid again, AND I believe it's also realigned properly. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[03Explo20]

Guys here who have recently changed these, can I ask a favor?? I'd like to ask if you could take photos of the inside of your rims and how close the ball joint is to the inside of your rims.

I'd like to compare to with what I have to be sure we're close. I have approximately a quarter inch between the rim and the bottom part of the ball joint inside the rim. A Ford tech just told me there should be more room in there but no matter what I try I cannot get these Moogs in the knuckle any farther than they are. They aren't rubbing and should be fine as long as they don't slide out of the pinch point which I cannot see happening!

Thanks, guys!

Drivers side: http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=bbi8MiGk22M5UforIwuFv4h4l5k2TGxc#.VcfFEPm8p0w

Passenger side: http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=bbi8MiGk22Nq2XYMjP0eGoh4l5k2TGxc#.VcfFK_m8p0w

 

[Number4]

My '04 OE link has almost an inch distance from the rim. It has stock 17" rims.
My '05 OE link is just like yours, 1/4" or so. This Ex has the stock 16" rims.

 

[03Explo20]

Thank you, 4, for that info. I feel a bit better about it now. I'm wondering, though, why after having the alignment done on Saturday that the link started rubbing the rim again when it was up and away from the rim about a quarter inch prior to the alignment. The only thing I can think of was the tech removed the frame side of the link to adjust it and the knuckle side dropped down a bit. No idea how, though, as I had it torqued to spec.

I pounded it back up in the knuckle yesterday and tightened it all down again and it again sitting at a quarter inch on both sides. I actually added a few extra foot pounds to the recommended torque spec just in case.

This has me stumped. I'm wondering now if I should have just forked out the extra $$ and bought the OEM toes.