Rear window question

[Carbuff7]

As in the big power window in the back of the cab. Does it require calibration when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time, like 2 days? Short story: Window was working fine. Truck was flipped upside down. Flipped back over.Battery disconnected for a few days. After reconnect window mysteriously ends up in vent position. Somewhere in the 45 minute drive home the window mysteriously goes all the way down by itself. The switch has no effect at all. Setup seems dead. Tried a calibration but no go, but maybe I did it wrong or maybe instructions are different for 2004 than what Ive found on internet. I really just want the window up for now. So, back to original question. Does a 2 day long battery pull mess up the back window calibration?

 

[swshawaii]

Calibration meaning "re-initialization"? Geez, another Ford term. Unless the bed window was misaligned or the motor damaged by turning the truck upside down, the factory procedure "should" work. Very important to OPEN THE DRIVER DOOR in step 1. PDF from the 2004 Ford Workshop Service Manual:



Just out of curiosity, why did you turn the ST upside down? Undercarriage work, rustproofing?

 

[Carbuff7]

Thanks for the link. As for the upside down. My daughter flipped it into a ditch on an icy road on her way to work 2 weeks ago. Then left it running upside down for a few minutes.After draining all the oil out of the combustion chambers and burning off all the oil in the plenum and exhaust its running no worse for the wear. Had to bleed the air out of the power steering from the upside down running and all the turning of the wheel not running while it was transported to the shop. Air in the ps system makes for some nasty death wobble going into turns. My daughter was unharmed. No airbags went off. it was a soft roll into a grassy drainage area. No comp or collision so its dad to the rescue to get it useable again. It has 42k original miles so its worth fixing. Popping out the roof will be pretty easy, getting the doors to seal at the top again might be a bit more of a challenge but Im confident it will look fine to the untrained eye. Ive been driving it around for the last 2 days but its not waterproof yet. The back window issue being part of that problem.

 

[Carbuff7]

So, for anyone keeping score, I figured out the window issue. I messed with 2 fuses, one under the hood and one next to the dash and got the electrical part working. It makes all of the sounds of the window going up and down but the window is stuck down. I took it all apart and the cable for the regulator is broken, just hanging in the breeze. So, I manually shoved the window up int the fully closed position, stuck a block of wood in the track and screwed it to the track. I then removed the fuse under the hood to make the motor inoperable. So, the window is permanently up for now. An easy fix but the 100 bux is needed elsewhere at the moment in the fix-the-truck budget. Windshield, and 3 side door glasses come first, might even possibly need a new ds front door If I cant unbend the window pillar straight again. And of course the track between the rear ds window and the quarter glass is bent too. All this thanks to the idiot tow truck guy who decided to flip the thing back over via the untouched side. Did more damage than the accident did. Moron.

 

[koda2000]

If case you didn't read the thread someone posted recently, it has been determined that the regular Explorer 4-door front doors are identical to the front ST doors. That should make finding used replacement parts easier and less expensive. I've learned that removing and replacing front doors is surprisingly easy. I've never had to remove a rear door.

 

[Carbuff7]

Yeah, Ive been on the lookout for a good door on craigslist locally. This summer I saw tons of explorers for parts but now I cant find one. At least not for under $200 for a door. I'll probably be better off removing the door to fix the window frame anyway.