How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor

[edlord]

4X4 does not work

No lights came on when I try and shift to 4-H or 4-L. Lots of advice suggested the shift motor would be bad. I found a new shift motor on ebay for $70 dollars so I bought it. The connector was not the same, the origional motor has a square connector with a round inside. The new motor has a square connector with a square inside. Since the wires were the same color I cut the connector off the old motor and installed it on the new one. IT DOES NOT WORK. I have tried testing the shift control module and the light flashes. indicating that is OK. I did all of the ohm tests on the cables into the control modules and they read OK. I read all of the forum posts and am getting dizzy. I don't understand the limit switches. Can I test the old motor or the new one by removing it at putting 12 volts on the wires? If so Which ones? How do I know if the motor is good. Perhaps I should overhaul the old one and reattach the connector? This is my first post and I'm not even sure I'm doing it correctly. Thanks for any help.

 

[DeRocha]

...Can I test the old motor or the new one by removing it at putting 12 volts on the wires? If so Which ones? How do I know if the motor is good. Perhaps I should overhaul the old one and reattach the connector? This is my first post and I'm not even sure I'm doing it correctly. Thanks for any help.

Overhaul the old motor 1st..

Caution: With the geared sensor installed the shift motor can only travel 280 degrees before it reaches a stop and will bind.. As such you can remove the geared sensor (so no binding will occur) and simply supply power to the motor. The wires (yellow & orange) in the pic below are used to power the motor.. If you supply 12v to one wire and ground the other the motor will run in one direction.. Reversing the wires and the motor will run in reverse.

 

[edlord]

Thanks DeRocha

Thanks for the help. I tried the motor and it worked so I followed the instructions on overhauling it. Well almost followed the instruction. I forgot to mark the cover. When I finished I put the cover on as best as I could and hooked up the motor. I didn't install it just hooked up the wiring. It goes in and out of 4-wheel but not 4L So I'm going to try adusting the cover to see if I can get it right. Thanks again. All you guys are great.

 

[TJTrucker]

Warn Manual hubs and a shift motor

Murphy moved right into my truck this last week, took out my Auto hubs and my shifter motor. Merry Christmas, actually this happend on New Year's Eve day, so made a fast call to my local Warn dealer and he stocked a set of Warn hubs, even delivered them to the end of my driveway. He had no spirit of venture so he wouldn't even attempt to come down the 200 foot long driveway.
Anyway got my grandson to give me a hand and we had the hubs on in less than an hour. But a couple of smacks on the rotor with a hamer and a good magnet over the opening and out the keyway poped. I should have done these hubs a long time ago, they are slick as a whisle now, they are by far the best investment for any 4X4. You can sure feel the difference between the old Auto hubs and Warn manuals, big inprovement.
We ran the truck up on the ramps and swaped out the shifter motor, checked the computer modual to make sure it was OK and hooked it all back up and went for burn out the driveway and back in. She sifts in/out of 4X4 and even Low Range works now.
If you want to make the best investment you can buy yourself a set of Warn Manual hubs, you will not regret it at all.
Hope everyone has a Happy New Year's 2009 should be a great year for 4X4ing.

 

[johns]

Does anyone know if the BW 4405 TC has had similar problems with the motor. I have a 1996 xlt (2wd,4wd,4wd-low) had it to the dealer when it was just past warranty and they diagnosed a bad TC motor (app 400.00 to get repaired). Now I have the same problem (six-blinks on dashboard lights). Do I bite the bullet and replace the motor again?

 

[Jwalters]

i hope someone can help me!!!!

I have had no complaints about my 1993 2 door with automatic transmission at all I love it! and it was working fine till it would not go into gear. I took the 4x4 off while in park in a parking lot, and then shut the engine off. 2hrs later when I came back I started the vehicle and tried to put it in drive. I could feel it go into gear but it would not move. I put it in reverse, 1,2,D,& OD. it would not move! then when I would put it in park there was a grinding noise (as if it was a a manual that did not have the clutch fully depressed) and my 4x4 stopped working. I checked the tranny fluid and it was fine and not burnt. i called and had it towed home. when the tow truck driver took it off the lift he put it in park and my explorer started to roll away! I need to know what is going on because my regular mechanic is away for a month and I need to have it working ASAP. has this happened to anyone before or knows what is wrong. I bought this last month and I only have 175,000ish kms on it. I figured that it might need one of the following a new filter and fluid, shift solenoid, kickdown cable, or heaven forbid a rebuild. Do any of you know about this and which might be the best way to get this on the road in 4 days?

 

[little x]

I have had no complaints about my 1993 2 door with automatic transmission at all I love it! and it was working fine till it would not go into gear. I took the 4x4 off while in park in a parking lot, and then shut the engine off. 2hrs later when I came back I started the vehicle and tried to put it in drive. I could feel it go into gear but it would not move. I put it in reverse, 1,2,D,& OD. it would not move! then when I would put it in park there was a grinding noise (as if it was a a manual that did not have the clutch fully depressed) and my 4x4 stopped working. I checked the tranny fluid and it was fine and not burnt. i called and had it towed home. when the tow truck driver took it off the lift he put it in park and my explorer started to roll away! I need to know what is going on because my regular mechanic is away for a month and I need to have it working ASAP. has this happened to anyone before or knows what is wrong. I bought this last month and I only have 175,000ish kms on it. I figured that it might need one of the following a new filter and fluid, shift solenoid, kickdown cable, or heaven forbid a rebuild. Do any of you know about this and which might be the best way to get this on the road in 4 days?

This is word for word the same as your other post, obviously copied and pasted :thumbdwn:. And has nothing to do with rebuilding your shift motor (te topic of this thread).
Welcome to the forum.

 

[Jwalters]

Can someone please help?

I was asking if this sounds like a prolblem that had occured with someone and if the shift solenoid is the problem.

 

[Deezak]

97 Ford Ranger 4x4 Shift Control Module

Hello all,

I am new here. I am working on my friends 1997 Ford ranger 4.0L manual transmission. His 4x4 in not working--When you turn the 4x4 selector switch the light turns on however I can only hear a electronic click--I cannot hear the transfer case ingaging.

I have purchased the following:
New shift module
Warn Hubs
Nut kit

I removed the shift module and some how I have a brown wire and I dont know where it goes. Can anyone help me

 

[dickster@rogers.]

Does shifter motor work?

Today I took out my shifter motor[94EX] 4x4 not engaging, recently purchased, as is, I could see 2 wires had been cut? Anyway removed the motor , followed the excellent pictures & walk thru threads...great...it`s out...now to check if it works itself before chasing all other options...once again followed Thread & it said to test the motor touching #3 & #2 with a 12 volt positive on one pin & negative on the other pin. If the motor turns, reverse the polarity of the pins & it will turn in reverse of the way it was going. These pins [needles] set recessed into the round grommet making them hard to single out without touching the ones beside it.

I used the 2 leads off my circuit tester. The end that fits into the unit, I placed over one pin & the same with the other lead over the other pin. These leads are the type that have the rubber elbows & plug down into the circuit unit. I don`t believe that the lead contact could go "over" the pins as much as beside the pins.The 2 of them wedge in together just like they growed there. I did this test on the top of the rad frame right by the battery. The motor sat there nice while I took the pointy ends of the leads to the battery posts....worked great...a lot of grit came out [lack of silicone sealer]& used a brush to clean it out. Switched the posts..Both ways. A drop of 3in 1 oil on the worm & gear wheel
NO CHANCE OF SHORTING NOTHING OUT...reassembled & reinstalled. Didn`t do a complete overhaul...got too cold...& it was working....major cost avoided. When I press the switch in the back side panel, I get a steady red light instead of a flashing one like before....This could be the snow that was blowing under there & got the contacts [plugs] wet & then froze. Had to use the pointy ends to clean out some holes. It was blowing pretty hard for a while...any way thought I`d share that with you as you most certainly have made my jobs easier...it`s like tit for tat. Crawled under at 1:00 done at 3:10 Thanks to these threads Glad that`s parts done it was getting cold -12, down to -19 tonight...-23 tomorrow night...don`t mind messin IN THE CAB, NOW...lol

 

[Berserk2005]

Explorer Elec Transfer Case Shift Diagnostics full listing

http://www.scribd.com/doc/9719562/93-Explorer-Elec-Transfer-Case-Shift-Diagnostics

 

[jstroud7@triad.r]

Bushing replacement

I have read several replies where a rubber hose was used to replace a bushing. As a novice, what type and size hose are you guy's using. I would greatly appreciate any help because i think this is what is wrong with mine. My truck will engage into 4 high but not 4 low.

 

[scubba.steve]

I just wanted to thank you in advanced on your write up about 4x4 not working. I havnt had the time to pull my shift motor yet and check it. I did however manage to reset the module only to have a solid red light. Think i will check my relay in the distribution block first.
Once again thank you in advanced on the write
up about repairing the shift motor

 

[snoborder42]

As a novice, what type and size hose are you guy's using. I would greatly appreciate any help because i think this is what is wrong with mine.

I believe that I used 3/8" tubing, but I'm not positive... Best thing to do is to take the gear with you to the store and check out the sizes that fit...

 

[scubba.steve]

OK so i had some time today i did the tapping trick while a friend pushed the button.
Low and behold the gentle tapping made it engadge and dissengadge.
Will be doing this shift motor rebuild soon.

 

[djjake]

Firstly, Thank you for such a great site, and a very well written diagnostics and repair for the Explorer 4x4.
I recently acquired a 93 XLT and have made it my new work truck/project. Through the posts and reply's on this sight I have fixed all four window motors and now the shift motor under $10 bucks.
For those of you who are like me and was unsure as to what to use to replace the broken stop bumper, I spliced a 1/4 in piece of rubber from my bike pump hose. I had purchased an array of tubing from Home depot, in hopes that one would fit when I got to the culprit. The sizes were either too big or just to difficult to fit around the stop screw. The Bike pump hose was perfect. If you have one laying around, remove the plastic from the end of the hose, splice a piece off and reinstall the end, that simple. I now have a shift motor, and 4x4 in a truck that has not worked in over ten years.
Cheers to all who contributed, and continue to make the difficult seem attainable.

 

[tugboat94]

4.oL ranger high idle

My 94 Ranger is idling at 1300 rpm. Had it checked with a scan tool and it said my TPS was out of range, so I replaced it. I am still at 1300 rpm. I checked the IAC with a VOM and it and the supply voltage are within spec. I also pulled the plug on the IAC with the truck running and there was no change at all in rpm. Maybe someone out there has had a similar promblem?

 

[scubba.steve]

My 94 Ranger is idling at 1300 rpm. Had it checked with a scan tool and it said my TPS was out of range, so I replaced it. I am still at 1300 rpm. I checked the IAC with a VOM and it and the supply voltage are within spec. I also pulled the plug on the IAC with the truck running and there was no change at all in rpm. Maybe someone out there has had a similar promblem?

I dont belive your question belongs to this thread. Please post under unmodified ranger, or engine electrical. Im sure you will get several responces there

 

[fishinmurph]

'96 XLT with '98 trans - wrong motor

The owner prior to me replaced the trans and the engine. the new shift motor (supplied by the prior owner) has 7 wires the one on the transfer case has 12 wires. can I make it work by removing the other sensor wires? should I get a new shift motor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Murph

 

[scobiewan]

I just wanted to add my experience to this thread in case it can help anyone (this thread sure has helped me). A few Saturdays ago I decided to put it in 4LO to go through some snow. It did not engage. I wasn't too fussed by this because I rarely use 4LO, but I was bothered when I tried to take it out of 4LO and it wouldn't come out! My truck was stuck in "2LO" (hubs not locked) and I had a trip on Monday.

I did a little internet research and tried resetting the computer and spinning the rear wheels in reverse, but no dice. After resetting the computer, the truck would make one attempt to shift the transfer case (I could hear the relays clicking in the dash), but then the 4HI and 4LO lights would flash a few times and that was it. I then found this thread and realized that I should at least be able to take the motor off and manually shift the transfer case back into 2HI to get me on the road Monday.

I pulled the motor off on Sunday. I powered the motor drive leads and it rotated just fine, so I suspected the infamous bushing problem. The shift motor had a blue plastic cover with T-15 security bits rather than the T-20 screws people most have. The encoding wheel was sealed in this plastic cover. There was a short D-shaped shaft which connected the encoding wheel to the large gear that drives the selector shaft. The problem in my case was that this shaft had broken, so the encoding wheel was decoupled from the position of the drive gear. I saw no easy way to repair this, so I just got a rebuilt shift motor and threw it on. All seems fine now!

So a hearty thanks to Brain and all of the contributors to this thread. Not only do I feel like Superman for fixing this myself (I know jack about auto repair), I know for sure if I had towed this to the dealer telling them "My 4WD is busted", it would have been at least $800. Instead, it cost me just $75 and a few hours. Brain, you 'da man!