4x4 Problem Fixed
CONVERTING AUTOMATIC HUBS TO MANUAL HUBS ON A 1993 FORD RANGER
For some time I was convinced I had shift motor, transfer case, or control module problems, when it was a *&%#&@* automatic hub problem all the time. Thanks to super mechanic Robert Cline for pointing me in the right direction.
To test if the 4x4 is working, press the 4W High button, and drive slowly in a paved parking lot. When you make a very sharp turn you will feel and hear terrible groans from the front wheels as they skid on the paved surface. The sound and feel are unmistakable. Don’t continue to drive on paved surfaces for any length of time as it is very hard on the 4x4 system and the tires.
I used a “Rugged Ridge Locking Hub Conversion Kit” (Part # 15003.65). My Ranger has the Dana 35, 27 spline, 5 bolt front axle.
When I looked up manual locking hubs, most sites said nothing about needing conversion kit consisting of a new bearing adjusting nut with a pin in it, a new lock washer, and a new locknut. The above mentioned kit has everything you need. You also are not told that it is mandatory to have a “4-Wheel Drive Spindle Nut Wrench/Socket.” I used OEM Part
#25072 , available at AutoZone.
You need this tool because the bearing nut has to be properly tightened by using a torque wrench. I understand some auto parts store will rent this item, but I bought one at AutoZone for $19.00. The tag says it is for Dana 44 Axles, but it fit my Dana 35 axle nuts. The Auto Craft 2 3/5” (AC650) “4x4 Spindle Nut Wrench WILL NOT FIT. Some posts suggest that a Hex Socket (Performance Tool W83240) is needed. I got by fine without this tool as the nut was not all that tight.
When I pulled the wheel on my Ranger, there were no clips holding on the hub. The first thing needed to be done is to remove the “C” clip located at the end of the splines. Mine was hard to find because it was under grease.
I used a hammer and punch to get it started, then a screwdriver to pry it off. This was done under a large rag in case the clip decided to go flying off into never-never land. I did not need “C” clip pliers to get it off. Once the clip was off I found it easy to slightly turn the nut in order to slide out the wedge with a magnet. Mine came out fairly easily. You will see the wedge in a key slot.
You will reuse only the "C" clip, and the toothed washer. The three new pieces will replace the rest of the old ones.
Unscrew the spindle nuts and then remove the outer bearing and re-grease it.
Now you are ready for reassembly. Install the new nut with the pin facing out. Tighten the nut to 35 ft/lbs to seat the bearing and turn the wheel. Then back it off about ¼ turn and torque it to 16 inch/pounds (not foot/pounds!). The equivalent is about 1 1/3 inch/pounds, but my torque wrench will not read that low, so I just tightened it enough so that there was no excess play.
Next you install the lock washer. Make sure the pin fits into one of the holes. There is a squared off tit in the washer that fits into the keyed slot.
Next install the other locknut and torque it to 150 ft/lbs. Then install the toothed washer (reused) on the shaft, and finally the “C” Clip (reused). I used the rag to cover it as much as I could so hopefully it would catch the clip if it went flying off during the install.
Put a light coat of grease on the inside of the manual hub (too much grease is a no-no), install it, put the wheel back on and you are done. Torque the ¾ inch lug nuts to 85-135 ft/lbs.
