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Rebuild AODE, only Second Gear

Ok another question... when you did the trans... did you reuse the original wiring loom and the original shift solenoids? Or did you change it over the the hard wiring plastic later model of harness?

Do you have a pressure tester available to you?

Do you see the shift solenoids lights change when you change gears using the tester ?
 



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Did you use the Fairbanks lip sealed Accumulator piston? And if so how did you make sure the lip seals did not get turned?

Did you reuse your old shift solenoids? Or switch to newer ones? Did you convert the soft wired internal harness to a hardwired one?

You say your EPC resistance using the tester instructions is 290 ohms? That calls for Pinpoint test E, which I can walk you through.
 






Good thought Chris, are all of the electrical parts used from the original model of trans? There were many changes through the 90's, including the MLPS.
 






I replaced the shift and EPC solenoids.

Yes, I used the lip seal OD servo, and the double o ringed 2-3 accumulator.

The lip seal did not appear to turn... it slid right in after being lubed up.

Yes, with power on to the tester, the EPC resistance is up in the 200's. No power, 4.5 ohms.

Original wiring harness.
 






When you put in drive, and selected the gears, did the shift solenoid lights light up appropriately? Did you buy the appropriate solenoids for your year ?
 












Time for a pressure gauge.... I'm thinking our next stop is to go back through the VB armed with the knowledge of what the pressures are doing.

I AM troubled by the EPC resistance... we need to also investigate the internal harness.
 






Time for a pressure gauge.... I'm thinking our next stop is to go back through the VB armed with the knowledge of what the pressures are doing.

I AM troubled by the EPC resistance... we need to also investigate the internal harness.

Is there anything that could be indicated by the noise I am hearing? Its an odd whirring noise that increases with RPM.

Im looking for a local source for a pressure gauge, looks like I'll be ordering one.

Im about half way to going to the junkyard and getting a 02 V6 4R70W for $150.
 






Please don't say that.... I can loan you a pressure tester if need be.... but they are cheap relatively speaking. The whirring COULD be the intermediate one way (mechanical diode)... do not sweat it for now.
 






Please don't say that.... I can loan you a pressure tester if need be.... but they are cheap relatively speaking. The whirring COULD be the intermediate one way (mechanical diode)... do not sweat it for now.

Ok, cool. Just getting frustrated!!!!

Ive got a pressure tester on the way.
 






Trust me I understand your frustration. We'll stay with you the whole way, even if, god forbid, it means reworking the rebuild once again with you each step of the way.

In the for what it's worth category, I elected NOT to use the Fairbanks lip sealed 2-3 accumulator piston just because getting the lip seal properly inserted seemed to be more of a big deal than I liked.

I'm thinking we may well find the missing pieces to help us figure this out once we have some pressure readings.

Keep the faith. You are not alone.
 






Pressure gauge just came, Im going to get some readings off the line tap.

Pressure is within spec for the Line Pressure.

Just over 50 when hitting the EPC button on the tester, and around 210 with it at full pressure.

EPC appears to be working. Should I get a reading off the TV port?

Trust me I understand your frustration. We'll stay with you the whole way, even if, god forbid, it means reworking the rebuild once again with you each step of the way.

In the for what it's worth category, I elected NOT to use the Fairbanks lip sealed 2-3 accumulator piston just because getting the lip seal properly inserted seemed to be more of a big deal than I liked.

I'm thinking we may well find the missing pieces to help us figure this out once we have some pressure readings.

Keep the faith. You are not alone.

The 2-3 accumulator piston I got only has o rings, no lip seals. Two sets of o-rings for each size bore in the case. I used the "street" setting with no springs installed.

The Fairbanks OD piston I got has a lip seal, and they specify the lip to face towards the outside of the trans, and also has a teflon seal.
 






I just went out and starting playing with it some more... in drive, setting the tester to first gear the pressure bounces between 175 and 200, and does the same when setting the tester to second gear.

I put it back in park, put the tester back in bench and hit the EPC button to verify the low pressure reading... and there was no pressure drop. WTF?
 






Looks like I had the tester set to first gear, so it didnt do anything in bench because it was set to ohms.

Pressure test on the TV (EPC) port is gold too, 90 psi at idle.

I think I am fighting a main control demon!!!!
 






Have you got a straight edge to check the valve body for being true? It sounds like an odd thing like that. Regards,
 






Have you got a straight edge to check the valve body for being true? It sounds like an odd thing like that. Regards,


Yes...

I can hear all the solenoids working with the vehicle off.

I'll check it for trueness, and if that is gold, I'm going to try and find a stock VB.
 






Another thought, going back, is the MLPS the same model as the vehicle? Odd issues with swaps often are caused by the wiring changes in those sensors, year to year.
 






Another thought, going back, is the MLPS the same model as the vehicle? Odd issues with swaps often are caused by the wiring changes in those sensors, year to year.

Yes, MLPS is the same, ive actually tried another one off the spare 94 trans that I picked up.
 






Back from the grave....

I finally got to work on it again. Swapped out the valve body with a late model and the damn thing runs great.
 



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