Recommended Oil for 4.0L

[extra-medium]

So I have been using the Motorcraft Semi-synthetic 5W-20/30 in my engine since I have owned it, and now that I am having early signs of timing chain problems I decided to go to the Motorcraft 10W-30 semi-synthetic oil for the higher viscosity and help prolong the engine life. Just curious what everyone else uses and what the best kind of oil for the engine is.

 

[Tyleryac]

The original oil would work just fine.

An oil change isn't going to fix a timing chain...get ready to spend big if that chain goes.

 

[Number4]

dont worry about the oil. Driving a 4.0 with rattle will net you a new engine. Once you have the new engine, I run Mobil 1. I'm interested in the Kendall oil, just don't like that it's seemingly hard to come by.

 

[1996EB]

If your early signs of timing chain issues are slight rattle on cold start, you might want to investigate the timing chain tensioners. There are posts on here about how to replace them. I just replaced the right side (rear tensioner) on my son's 03 ST 4.0. The engine now sounds like new. Granted it was only a slight rattle on cold start and we got on it right away. The job was definitely worth doing.

 

[drdoom]

The original oil would work just fine.

An oil change isn't going to fix a timing chain...get ready to spend big if that chain goes.

+1 Motorcraft is excellent oil, many say use the 05W/30 but I use the 05W/20 exclusively for 236,000 miles. Going heavier is an absolute no-no. YMMV

 

[extra-medium]

If your early signs of timing chain issues are slight rattle on cold start, you might want to investigate the timing chain tensioners. There are posts on here about how to replace them. I just replaced the right side (rear tensioner) on my son's 03 ST 4.0. The engine now sounds like new. Granted it was only a slight rattle on cold start and we got on it right away. The job was definitely worth doing.

I tried replacing the tensioners and the right side was fine but the left side was worse so I put the old one back in and it was just a slight rattle here and there. I am just trying to figure ways of buying time on a ticking time bomb.

 

[dbwalker]

I use Royal Purple 5W-30. Am I right in saying that the only difference between 5W-30 and 5W-20 is viscosity at cold start/not warm engine? I'm pretty sure they run the same weight at running temp, which is what matters. In my opinion it then comes down to quality of oil, filter, and maintenance habits. I use an oil additive called X-tra Lube and it's been quite impressive. My motor runs more smooth than when I got it 30K miles ago or so. I also use Bosch D+ oil filters to take advantage of the 5 Micron rating. Greats posts all!

 

[leadfootdriver]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best stuff going right now I think. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

[Tyleryac]

I tried replacing the tensioners and the right side was fine but the left side was worse so I put the old one back in and it was just a slight rattle here and there. I am just trying to figure ways of buying time on a ticking time bomb.

There's no "buying time" you would just be covering up the noise. Like I said earlier, oil isn't going to fix a timing chain.

 

[swshawaii]

Am I right in saying that the only difference between 5W-30 and 5W-20 is viscosity at cold start/not warm engine?
I'm pretty sure they run the same weight at running temp, which is what matters.

What does the "w" in a grade of motor oil stand for?

The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity. The lower this number is, the less viscous your oil will be at low temperatures. For example, a 5W- motor oil will flow better at lower temperatures than a 15W- motor oil. The higher number, following the “w” refers to hot weather viscosity, or how fluid your oil is at hot temperatures. The higher the number, the thicker the oil at a specified temperature.

Oil Types, Weights & Viscosity FAQs
http://www.valvoline.com/auto-resources/motor-oil-faq-types

 

[Exproblems]

. I'm interested in the Kendall oil, just don't like that it's seemingly hard to come by.

Kendall oil was quite common back the late 70's when I started driving and I used it then in my vehicles and liked it. Some of the early quick oil change shops carried it as their signature brand in my area. It sort of phased out in the part stores in the later 80's and on.

 

[Exproblems]

II also use Bosch D+ oil filters to take advantage of the 5 Micron rating. Greats posts all!

I'm a fan of the Bosch D filters and was using them up to a few weeks ago when I did my oil change. But WalMart decided to phase the Bosch filters out and replace them with the K&N brand, which I bought and installed into my Explorer along with Castrol Full synthetic w/Titanium 5W-30 motor oil. The Bosch and K&N filters are designed for use with full synthetic motor oil.

 

[Reprise]

I agree about the Penn Ultra Platinum, but I'd never put it in my Ex (I've got a 4.0L with timing chain issues, and am going to put a pre-oiler in it). Actually, I'd been using the 'regular' Penn Plat for a few years in my Hondas; quieter than M1, IMO. I may replace the tensioners, too, but I'm expecting the best bang from the pre-oiler.

On to oil...
Someone mentioned Kendall - it's still out there, and the Syn Blend is supposed to have a very good additive pack, according to the boys over at BITOG. My local Firestone shops use it; I've noted no issues with it. It's a Texaco product, IIRC.

For my Explorer, I use the Valvoline Max Life (the regular, not the synthetic). Comes in a red bottle. Reason being that the high mileage oils have the seal swellers in them to help against leaks, the Max Life was another BITOG recommendation, and it's very price competitive / available. I'd stay with the 5w-30, myself - in this application, you probably want thicker, vs. thinner - and Ford left the spec for this engine at 5w-30 for a reason - probably the timing chains, would be my guess.

I do use the Motorcraft filters; I can find both at Wally World when I go in to get the gallon jugs of oil. Certainly good enough for the application.

 

[dbwalker]

That's right! Thanks for the reminder, it's been a while since I have researched this stuff.

 

[96FordExplorerXLT]

I use Royal Purple 5W-30. Am I right in saying that the only difference between 5W-30 and 5W-20 is viscosity at cold start/not warm engine? I'm pretty sure they run the same weight at running temp, which is what matters. In my opinion it then comes down to quality of oil, filter, and maintenance habits. I use an oil additive called X-tra Lube and it's been quite impressive. My motor runs more smooth than when I got it 30K miles ago or so. I also use Bosch D+ oil filters to take advantage of the 5 Micron rating. Greats posts all!

5W is the cold start. 30W or 20W is the warm operating temp weight, so yes there is a difference in weight between 30W & 20W when warm.

 

[allmyEXes]

OLD THREAD ALERT!