How to: Remove and replace door latch assembly

[rsqdvr]

Thanks for the help

To the OP, thanks very, very much for the information. I don't think I would have been able to repair my drivers side door this weekend without finding this website and this thread in particular. My replacement went rather well. The door latch was $75 at the dealer and the actuator was $55 at my local auto parts store. I bent the crap out of the lock rod but it seems to work just fine. I was having some trouble with the passenger door so I bought two of each but now the passenger door won't open at all. Not from the inner handle or the outer handle. I'm having a heck of a time getting the door panel off so I can have access to the rods. I'm trying very hard not to remove the seat because I feel like even if I do, I'm in the same boat. I just can't get anything between the panel and the sheet metal so I can pry the panel off. Going to do some more research for more ideas. Wish me luck.

 

[jtanks]

door latch removal & replacement

thank you very much for the play by play info. replaced latch on thursday with hardly a scratch to the mitts. purchased latch assembly from ford dealer for $51 plus tax and installation done in one and a half hours

 

[SaltCoveredFord]

first how did u get the door open .mine is locked i have the panel off. gained access to the push pull rods but nothing gives.....Ok got it open . you have to get between the latch mechanism and outer door wall where the rod from lock cylinder connects to the latchmech and push in on the metal tabs that move up and down . this frees up the latch apparently . i had someone gently open the door from the outside ... dont let them pinch your fingers. good luck all you DIY. LOL Appreciate the info from everyone .

I'm at this spot but what he wrote looks like calculus to me. My door is stuck shut, I managed to pop the panel off, rolled the window back up. But I don't see anything that looks like it would open the door. The big rod doesn't seem to be doing much at all and I have no idea what the latchmesh is. Anyone have a photo or detailed diagram about how I can actually get the door open so I can start the job?

Thanks,

Salty

 

[BlkSquad]

Any idea if the lock assembly from a 97xlt will fit a 98 sport? The 97 is my parts truck

 

[BlkSquad]

Bump
Any answer? I know the doors are different lengths, but if I replaced the sport parts excluding the bar with the xlt parts it should work, right? Just take the latch, actuator, and assembly. Yeah?

 

[CobraGT40]

Bump
Any answer? I know the doors are different lengths, but if I replaced the sport parts excluding the bar with the xlt parts it should work, right? Just take the latch, actuator, and assembly. Yeah?

Anyone have an answer to this one ? I also have an expy Sport and need to replace the latch...Seemes there's a little spring in there that is broken and won't let the door unlock.

Scott

 

[smook]

Hey I just wanted to say thanks. I read your post step by step as I was changing out the part. Made the process ten times easier.

 

[capnvic]

One More Done - Additional info on Step 8

Just replaced passenger rear door latch on 1998 model. A couple of quick items:

1. I removed the bolts for both the rear-side window guide, plus the bolt and nut for the center area window frame (I think that is what it was....). I did not remove the rear side window guide (which I think is what the directions suggest), and was still able to simply push it around a bit inside the door enough while it was in place inside the door - at least enough to get the job done with little problem (And yes, I also have fairly big hands....).

2. Like may, I got wholly stuck on Number 8, and couldn't figure out what the directions were talking about. I finally figured out that my lock cylinder is clamped to the body by two pieces of sheet steel on each side of the cylinder. When you look at the cylinder, you will see a white washer guide that is inside of this sheet steel next to the lock cylinder. There is one of these on each side of the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder has a metal lump thingy (what else can I call it!) that sits inside the white washer, thereby holding it in place. I simply inserted a large screwdriver between the sheet steel and the lock cylinder on the side closest to me (i.e., inside side of the lock cylinder), and twisted the screwdriver to separate the cylinder from the sheet steel, then pulled/twisted the lock cylinder a bit to free it out of the sheet metal clamp that was holding it in place. Lock cylinder and all then comes out with the latch assembly. Replaced it in a similar/reverse manner.

3. After getting the latch assembly out and replacing parts onto the new assembly, it all went back together in about ten minutes! Like so many projects, ended up with two extra small screws. Nature of giving it an overnight to think about how to complete that step 8...Seems to work fine, and am looking forward to the increased gas mileage due to the reduced weight!Dead Link Removed

Good luck, guys and gals - I thought I was about through with it, but finally pulled it off. It definitely is a do-able little project!!!!

 

[Efebert]

Good thread with a lot of good info that has helped me get started on fixing my stuck door on my 98 Explorer Sport. My problem is that the door is locked and shut. I was able to get access to the locking mechanisms by removing both front seat and pulling the door cover off but still can't get the door open. I have tried manually pulling the door handle rod but the door still won't open. It seems that the locking mechanism is stuck and I can't get it to move. When I push the unlock button it clicks but doesn't unlock and the key will not work ether. Any info on how to get my door open would be great

 

[CobraGT40]

Good thread with a lot of good info that has helped me get started on fixing my stuck door on my 98 Explorer Sport. My problem is that the door is locked and shut. I was able to get access to the locking mechanisms by removing both front seat and pulling the door cover off but still can't get the door open. I have tried manually pulling the door handle rod but the door still won't open. It seems that the locking mechanism is stuck and I can't get it to move. When I push the unlock button it clicks but doesn't unlock and the key will not work ether. Any info on how to get my door open would be great

Once the panel is off, and if you can reach the push-pull rods all you have to do is keep jiggling the rod coming from the power door lock actuator to the door latch in an upward motion while slightly pulling it back towards yourself. Eventually it will unlock...Its a royal pain-in-the-ass !

After trying to fix my latch to no avail and then getting another latch from a junkyard (that didn't show the same symptoms til AFTER it was installed in my Expy Sport, of course.) ...I finally got a new OEM latch off of Ebay for about $60 shipped. Do yourself a HUGE favour and just buy a new latch instead of trying to save a few bucks with a repair/used latch. It is an absolute royal pain to change out !

After seeing a new latch, I know exactly why the old ones don't work anymore...Just a small broken/missing spring inside the latch.

Good luck !

Scott

 

[J_C]

It really is a shame there isn't anyone selling this custom spring alone... beside the cost difference I managed to put the spring from a replacement latch in without even taking the original latch out.

 

[Twindux]

Thanks! Saved me $$$$$$

Thanks to TeCh0010 and everyone else who chimed in. T

I wasn't sure whether it was the latch or the power lock actuator. Went to the dealer for the part (I know...but they were open and had the part in stock!). Guy was actually quite helpful in troubleshooting whether it was the latch or the acutator. Got the part, got it replaced (OK, a few choice swear words with all those danged linkages!), but now it works good as new. Glad I didn't have to replace the acutator...the locking mechanism in the latch had just worn so much it would intermittently seize completely.

So thanks all, for saving my $$ and my marriage!

 

[mjguest2]

So perhaps a dumb question, but a question nonetheless. I'm in the middle of doing this right now and am having a problem twisting the latch itself to unhook from the bottom J rod.

That said, the window itself is down, not up.

....and the battery's totally dead.

Just judging by how difficult of a time I'm having moving this latch around, I'm assuming that the window should be up?

Thanks!

Yes, the window needs to be up but not all the way. Leave a 1 or 2 inch gap at the top. The bottom of the window helps hold the guide in place when you put it back together.

 

[MPNX2]

I called my local dealer and he sells those white plastic connecting clips separately for about $6.00 He says the part number is 21970. I would take that number with a grain of salt though, it may be a parts explosion reference number, it doesn't seem to be long enough for a Ford part number. He says he keeps them in stock and even gets them from a supplier for techs who need them which is all the time. I would bring the part with you to the dealer for reference.

See

If you're going to do the whole job as discussed below and there is anything defective at all about it, maybe you ought to pick up the outer door handle rod plastic connecting clip also shown in the picture above in the previous post. It is referenced in another previous post and according to that post it costs about $3.



With the lock cylinder connecting rod prevented from interfering with the operation of your latch mechanism you should be able to check it out completely right down to the latch actuator. If everything is all working without binding or hangups and the latch operates and the door opens and closes normally then you are right to just replace the clip. If not, then I'd think about doing the whole job at once since you have the door panel off anyway - latch, clip, and actuator. The latch runs about $40 at the dealer (only place to get it) and you can get the latch actuator in stock from Autozone for about $43, don't know how much at the dealer. When doing the whole job, don't forget to mark the door handle rod with magic marker or paint where it fits the yellow clip to prevent the need for trial and error refitting. Make sure you read ALL of the above posts starting with the first one in the thread so that you throughly understand the many nuances people have discovered and posted!

Instead of removing the rivet from the bracket holding the actuator to the door, I gently spread the bracket open with a flat bladed screwdriver, first disconnecting the power connector. Once it hung free from the bracket it was easy to manipulate it off the latch (and vice versa on the re-install.) I removed the new bracket that comes with the new actuator, spread the U as much as I dared on the old one and after a lot of manipulation, straining, and spreading of the U, was able to remount the new actuator in the old bracket. DON'T FORGET to install it on the new latch FIRST. There is a movie that explains the process for the rear hatch that has application here. See http://www.ehow.com/video_4941938_power-door-lock-actuator-removal.htmll

Small hands are a must for this job!

P.S. ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEAS ABOUT THOSE TWO HANDLE PULL SCREWS I NEED HELP WITH?

Has anyone found a place to order part number 21970? Mine is broken as well and it looks like you need to purchase the whole cylinder assembly in order to get just the clip. The price for the whole assembly is 61.00...

I tore the door apart today and everything looks fine other than the rod which runs to the lock cylinder was hanging free since the clip was broken. I assume this is what has caused the door to be difficult to open and then the latch remained in the closed position so it would shut...looks like I just need the clip.. I may do the lacth assembly as well just to be safe..

 

[J_C]

Has anyone found a place to order part number 21970? Mine is broken as well and it looks like you need to purchase the whole cylinder assembly in order to get just the clip. The price for the whole assembly is 61.00.

You didn't list your model year.

If you're looking for the one pictured in this post http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2349284&postcount=41 , the right hand door clip here looks similar if not identical:

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Door_Lock_Pawl_Right_Side_p/a17119.htm

They list 21970 as the RH door and 21971 as the LH door. The links also show a full Ford part # for it if that helps. LH part:

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Door_Lock_Pawl_Left_Side_p/a17118.htm

The problem is, it won't let me add it to their cart, but doing a Google search for the full Ford part # they list, F3LY-6321971A (LH) or F3LY-6321970A (RH), I do see other sellers on both parts websites and on eBay, and these are part #s that correspond to the part number a previous poster listed here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2357369#post2357369

 

[tchalm]

98 Ex rear door

I'm having trouble with the driver side back door. Occasionally I can get it to unlock and open with the power lock button, but usually the only way to get it to open and unlock is by jiggling both the lock knob and the door handle for a minute or so - pulling hard is a bad idea.

I've got the door panel off of the inside, but it's such a beast to get at the latch and see what's gone wrong in there. I can see a broken piece of a small spring - but I'm not sure where it came from.

And after reading this thread and another thread, I think I'm confused by the instructions for fixing the front door.

What I've figured out so far is not much, but I did realize that the rear door does not have a lock cylinder, so instructions like #8 that include a lock cylinder are for the front door.

Having not found a thread for fixing the back door latch yet, I'll keep looking, but does anyone have that already?

Thanks,
TimC

 

[J_C]

I'm having trouble with the driver side back door.
... I can see a broken piece of a small spring - but I'm not sure where it came from.

How small? You see it in the latch mechanism or in the door cavity?

If it's the one from the latch mechanism, get a flashlight and compare the working passenger side back door latch to the driver's side (from outside the door). If it's the spring you'll probably see it in place on one door but not on the other.

 

[tchalm]

How small? You see it in the latch mechanism or in the door cavity?

If it's the one from the latch mechanism, get a flashlight and compare the working passenger side back door latch to the driver's side (from outside the door). If it's the spring you'll probably see it in place on one door but not on the other.

It's about the thickness of a safety pin, and the hooked end was laying in the latch mechanism. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet and then try to use a flashlight and mirror to figure out where it belongs. And yeah, I could pop the other door panel off. Then see if I can find something similar to replace it.

(It started to rain when I was working on it yesterday; but it might be dry later today - maybe. But this is springtime in Oregon = Ha!)

Thanks,
TimC

 

[J_C]

^ No, not pop the door panel off. This spring may be visible through the latch opening. I"ll go take a look at mine. (... time lapse...) lol, my rear driver's side spring is now broken and I didn't even realize it.

Anyway, all 4 doors have this spring which you can see by looking into the mechanism from the outside of the door, you don't need the door panel off to see it, just a flashlight. Here are a couple pictures, they are of the driver's door mechanism but the spring is in the same place for all of them.





In "some" cases, for example mine right now, even though the spring is broken it still works. Maybe it's the warm weather, or maybe it's that I lubed all the mechanisms with spray grease after the first one broke and that's why I didn't notice another one of mine had broken.

I wish we could find a source for these, it's going to get old having to keep buying ~ $40 latch mechanisms for a 5 cent spring. If you have ninja precision using a pair of miniature needle nose pliers (or maybe a hemostat would work too), and a lot of patience, this spring can be installed in the old mechanism without taking the mechanism out of the door, by access through the opening in the 2nd picture from outside the door.

I took the pictures to help me do it this way again as it took a good 10 minutes of trying the first time before I succeeded which isn't long but it seems that way when you keep getting nowhere before you suddenly get it on. Knowing where that top hole is that I pictured is the tricky part, after you get the top hook of the spring on then the bottom is pretty easy.

 

[tchalm]

^ No, not pop the door panel off. This spring may be visible through the latch opening.

Yep! That's the one that broke. I could see the good one in the passenger rear door, but the spring is missing in the driver's rear door.

And thank you for the pictures of the latch. And yes! It would be great to have a good source for the spring.

I'll see what I can figure out without having to remove and replace the latch.

Thanks,
TimC