How to: Remove and Replace your 2nd gen 1996 - 2001 Explorer V8 Radiator (with pics)

[bronchole]

So I was in the middle of installing my new winch when I noticed that my condensor has hanging down on the drivers side. After spending an hour trying to get the tabs back in I went to the forums and ran across this thread. It helps allot to know it is possible when you are trying to do it. It doesn't help to have some of the wiring re-routed between the frame and the radiator as part of the SAS

After reviewing this thread and giving it another try it only took about 3 minutes to see that it definatly should be possible, another 10 minutes to actually get thedam tabs in to the slots.

Thanks for the pictures and comments.

Dan

 

[koda2000]

5.0 Radiator Swap - Thank you Joe Dirt!

I finally got around to installing the new radiator in my 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L V8 today. Thanks to Joe Dirt's excellent "sticky" on the subject it went pretty well, but those "slide clips" on the A/C condenser are about as much fun to deal with as stubborn fuel line clips. From job-start to washing hands and putting the tools away took me 4 hours. Now that I've done one, I think I could maybe do the next one it in 3 hours, but I have no additional advice to add to Joe's sticky. it's just a freaking wrestling match.

Thanks Joe D! I probably would have broken something without you great instructions and pics.

Now it's time for a beer, or 3...

 

[SparkyJeff]

Thanks for the write up Joe Dirt!
Step-by-step, great pictures, simple instructions
Google searching "explorer radiator 2nd gen" this was the first link
I'm getting ready for this project by squirting my bolts (MN corrosion) Now I'll get at that ac line bracket a few days before starting.
Thanks again
Jeff

 

[kythri]

Much appreciated write-up!

Does anyone know if the metal fan from a '98 V8 will fit a '99 V6 SOHC fan clutch/shroud?

I'm in the process of replacing the radiator/hoses/thermostat/etc. and my plastic fan is all cracked to hell - would really like to replace with a metal fan, but that doesn't seem to have been an option on V6 models...

 

[fixt]

Great Help

Much appreciated.
The plastic header had a slow leak on the passenger side that only showed under pressure, after driving and warmed up.
I used same radiator from Rock Auto. I pulled the old one when I saw the new one was out for delivery today.

Thanks for the excellent write up. I never would have figured out those fanny pack and slide arrangement, and it was still a lot wiggling and wallowing to get those damnable things lined up on reinstall.
There was a small keeper screw on the old radiator slide clip on the bottom slide driver side, deleted on new radiator as there's no hole for it.

It's not terrible thanks to your great write up, the hardest part is getting those clips aligned and slid together while still being able to insert that fanny pack clip.
An exercise in patience, but it came out... it will go back in once the stars align.

Edit: My transmission cooler lines have flared ends, verified by checking the radiator side also. Teflon tape was not necessary

 

[aubeagle]

Thank you so much!!

I did one in a 97 Mounty today and it was a real pain until I looked on the forum. I have a 94 Ex and that one is cake compaired to this one. The 97 belongs to a coworker. I also did the hoses and thermostat. Thank you for the write up and pics..

 

[Ranxeroxlubna]

Great Post! I could not have done it as well, or as easily without your pictures and descriptions. Especially the fan. Because of your pictures, I went and looked at mine and found a lot of the same cracks, plus a few more. I ordered a metal one online.

Going to super-flush my system, it had all sorts of rust and calcification in it when I took the hoses off, and the water looked like it came from a local run-off pond.

Thanks a lot!

 

[toughguy]

yessss, this helped me out, thank you.

 

[jlrohio]

To those who have experience working on multiple flavors of 2nd gen Explorers, are these instructions very similar for a 1999 Explorer - 4.0L OHV engine?? (i.e. the fanny pack clip, etc...)?

I've reviewed the entire how-to...I just want to know before I tackle this job this weekend if everything is similar between the V8 & V6 version of this radiator replacement job.

BTW, OP - great write-up! Thank-you!

 

[koda2000]

To those who have experience working on multiple flavors of 2nd gen Explorers, are these instructions very similar for a 1999 Explorer - 4.0L OHV engine?? (i.e. the fanny pack clip, etc...)?

I've reviewed the entire how-to...I just want to know before I tackle this job this weekend if everything is similar between the V8 & V6 version of this radiator replacement job.

BTW, OP - great write-up! Thank-you!

The 4.0 doesn't use the same mounting method as the V8 regarding the A/C condenser and clips/slides. The 4.0 radiators are super simple to change. Drain, a couple of 10mm bolts, pop off the fan shroud, the trans fluid lines, the rad hoses and lift.

 

[jlrohio]

I used teflon tape on my transmission lines but the bottom one is still leaking - does anyone know if there is some type of O-ring inside the radiator the flared end is to rest upon?

Another question...those transmission lines get quite warm...is teflon tape up to dealing with that amount of heat? I just used the same teflon tape I got at one of the big box hardware stores - same I use on plumbing fittings that call for it.



** Note: This is the 2nd time I've asked about a leaking tranny line & teflon tape in this discussion board **

 

[dr fildo]

Great write up! With your pic and description of the "fanny pack" clip it came off pretty simply. Did the job myself no extra hands needed. No cursing needed. Didn't even bruise or cut myself, which is an accomplishment for me.

Thank you.

 

[CDW6212R]

I used teflon tape on my transmission lines but the bottom one is still leaking - does anyone know if there is some type of O-ring inside the radiator the flared end is to rest upon?

Another question...those transmission lines get quite warm...is teflon tape up to dealing with that amount of heat? I just used the same teflon tape I got at one of the big box hardware stores - same I use on plumbing fittings that call for it.



** Note: This is the 2nd time I've asked about a leaking tranny line & teflon tape in this discussion board **

Flared line fittings don't need any sealant on their threads, the seal is at the flared surfaces. Sealant might help if a leak got past the intended seal surface, but the answer is to fix the leak at the right location.

Most flared transmission lines have a feasible space available where an o-ring can be placed. I have had many flared lines(fuel line you buy at any parts store) used for trans lines, which leaked even when very tight.

You can keep cranking down on the fitting and risk damaging the assembly. The best answer if tightening it doesn't immediately stop the leak, is to replace the lines or use an o-ring. I love the common o-ring sets most people have from parts stores. Go through that and find one that fits easily down into the female flare fitting side. Make it thin enough and the right diameter to fit well down in the crevice. Too big(thick) will get pinched and maybe interfere with the sealing space. You only need the o-ring to get squeezed a bit by the male fitting. With the right o-ring the fittings don't have to be cranked super tight, but tight enough(normal accepted torque).

 

[CDW6212R]

Great thread Joe, thanks, I will be doing my timing chain soon, and the radiator needs to come out. It doesn't look that bad after seeing where the mystery clips are located, and which ways to move the radiator.

 

[koda2000]

Great thread Joe, thanks, I will be doing my timing chain soon, and the radiator needs to come out. It doesn't look that bad after seeing where the mystery clips are located, and which ways to move the radiator.

The problem is that the slides on the driver's side are very difficult to disengage and reengage. There's just not enough space between the frame rails. If you were installing the radiator with the A/C condenser attached (the way Ford did it on the assembly line) it would be pretty easy. The job is doable, but you'll have a few choice words for the engineers that came up with this design.

 

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like it's time to cut the center radiator support and make it a bolt in assembly. That would make a cam change easier too. I'm going to be doing a bit of that when I force a Super Duty trans cooler between the radiator and the AC condenser. The center vertical section has to move, wink wink.

 

[Ranxeroxlubna]

I used teflon tape on my transmission lines but the bottom one is still leaking - does anyone know if there is some type of O-ring inside the radiator the flared end is to rest upon?

Another question...those transmission lines get quite warm...is teflon tape up to dealing with that amount of heat? I just used the same teflon tape I got at one of the big box hardware stores - same I use on plumbing fittings that call for it.



** Note: This is the 2nd time I've asked about a leaking tranny line & teflon tape in this discussion board **

There are O-rings for both fittings. When I did mine, I had to remove the original O-rings from the old radiator. I replaced them at NAPA, took the original ones in and got 2 new ones. $.067 each, if I recall. Solved my problem.

Make sure there isn't something in the new radiators opening...shouldn't be, but you never know.

Teflon tape will cope with whatever heat is generated at the radiator. Never have had a problem.

 

[koda2000]

There are O-rings for both fittings. When I did mine, I had to remove the original O-rings from the old radiator. I replaced them at NAPA, took the original ones in and got 2 new ones. $.067 each, if I recall. Solved my problem.

Teflon tape will cope with whatever heat is generated at the radiator. Never have had a problem.

I've replaced two 2000 Explorer V8 radiators and one 2001 ST SOHC radiator. None of my trans line fittings had O-rings. None of my trans lines leaks. You should not need to use Teflon tape on the fittings either. You do need to use 2 wrenches when tightening the trans line fittings, but I've never found they needed to be particularly tight.

 

[SootsMe]

I used teflon tape on my transmission lines but the bottom one is still leaking - does anyone know if there is some type of O-ring inside the radiator the flared end is to rest upon?

Another question...those transmission lines get quite warm...is teflon tape up to dealing with that amount of heat? I just used the same teflon tape I got at one of the big box hardware stores - same I use on plumbing fittings that call for it.



** Note: This is the 2nd time I've asked about a leaking tranny line & teflon tape in this discussion board **

There are 3 O rings on each line attachment: 1 seals between trans cooler and radiator end frame, 2nd seals between end cap exterior and flat portion of the large copper colored bushing that holds the trans cooler on to the plastic end cap, 3rd down inside the bushing seals the end of the flared line. All of these are easy to goof up if you're not *very* careful. The reason I had to R&R my radiator was that a usually reliable shop screwed mine up, it leaked from the bottom fitting, and I had neither the time nor the inclination to take it back there...In the process, I discovered that they also hadn't gotten the $%^& clips properly re-attached. The way those O rings are set up, I'm guessing they didn't use a backup wrench to hold the bushings absolutely still while removing the trans lines, allowing the O rings to go awry. Also, since the bushings are holding the cooler in place inside the end cap, if you remove them both the cooler falls down in the bottom of the end cap, wedges in nicely, and you need to pull the radiator to retrieve and re-align it. (Don't ask me how I know this. ) As always, the key is to watch faster than you move... Simple, just not necessarily easy. I really wish I had seen this excellent writeup before I did mine.

 

[Raydar71]

Thanks for writing this up. It was very helpful.

In my case, having big hands/forearms, once I removed the battery, I found it a bit easier to access the clips and lower transmission fitting.