Removing Overload Spring | Ford Explorer Forums

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Removing Overload Spring

  • Thread starter Thread starter geemo
  • Start date Start date
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geemo

Hey All. I have a '92 EB with a 4" Skyjacker Class II system on it. I would like to remove the overload spring. Could I just remove it and do nothing else to the rest of the springs and not experience any future problems (with the exception of losing some load carrying capacity)? Would it really help soften the ride? Would it increase my articulation? It would definitely be one less thing to bang on a rock or get hung up on. Any help, clarification would be greatly appreciated.
 



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you'r first aproch is going to be as fallows. Get a hold of the bigest flat-head screwdriver you can find. Then place it firmly btween the two front teeth. Nexed grab a hammer and tap the handle of the screw driver rather firmly 3 times. With your now, missing two front teeth any wories about your springs shouled be in the back ground thus nolonger a concern. Problem solved. Serously thuogh I don't think that you have any thing to wory about removing the spring.
 






Actually more of what I was wondering is how do I go about removing it? Can I just pound and twist it off?
 






that Is a good question. I've never removed the leaf of a spring befor, although I have herd of people doing it if that helps at all. There is no doubt that it can be done. My best advice to you is to look for an artical where some people are posting back and forth on a heavy subject and send your question to a few of them veia e-mail. You will more than likly get a responce. The majority of the people here are willing to help.
 






Removing your overload spring with decrease your rear end ht by approx. 1". This is because you will have more sag (and yes more articulation). If your high in the rear already then go ahead (or maybe put in loger shackles to compensate)

Cheers
Dale
 






It would cause sag with a spring-under pack? I guess I don't understand how, since it's separate from the pack except in heavy load situations...Could you explain further, please?
 






geemo,

I removed the flat, stock overload spring on my 93 some time ago. It will not cause droop with a spring under setup. However, it will decrease the load carrying capacity of your vehicle(towing big boats, etc.). It should increase articulation by allowing more compression(that is why I removed it). Hope this helps a little.

Take care and happy exploring!


------------------
Todd Metzger
'Off-Road and More!'
93 "Ford X 4" XLT
 












geemo,
For the stock setup, as should be for your Skyjacker springs, it is a fairly simple task. The first thing to do, is raise the rear of the vehicle by the frame just until the tires are barely touching the ground. Then, doing one said at a time, undo the lower shock mount and try to push the shock up and out of your way. Next, support the axle with a jack so that when you undo the U-bolts, the axle will come off of the spring. Note, I said to simply support and not to raise(BIG difference)! Then begin undoing the U-bolt nuts. On mine, it required an 18 mm deep socket. Be careful when the nuts are close to coming off. Sometimes, the center pin will hang up in the spring perch. If it does and then decides to release while you are under it, it may hurt just a little. Once the U-bolts and plate are removed, you are almost there. If the center pin did hang up, just give the axle a shake by grabbing the drum and wigglin' it a little back and forth. Next, raise the axle a couple of inches to expose the top of the center pin of the springs. Now, this is where you must be careful because you are about to remove the center pin. Take a vise grips and attach it to the rounded top portion of the center pin, and place a socket on the nut/bottom portion of the pin. Again, on mine, I believe that this was a 15 mm sized nut. I will warn you that the center pin can be under a lot of pressure, and when released can cause flying springs, nuts, fingers, etc. So, please be careful. Some people may think that I am being overly cautious, but all that I have to say is remember the old style of wheel known as a split rim. The initial design was thought safe until people started losing fingers. Anyway, to get back on track, you can now unscrew the center pin. At this point, more than likely, everything(springs, shims, etc.) as all fallen on the floor. All that you have to do now is reassemble without the bottom leaf. Pretty simple. Now, one thing that you need to keep in mind is regarding the retorqueing of the shock mount and U-bolts. The thing to do with them is to hand tigthen all nuts until you can't twist them anymore. Then do the final torqueing with the entire weight of the vehicle on the axle, springs, etc.(basically off of the jacks). I can't remember what the torque specs are off hand, but someone on this board should know.

Hope this helps, if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Take care and happy exploring!



------------------
Todd Metzger
'Off-Road and More!'
93 "Ford X 4" XLT
 












105 lb/ft

------------------
Paul Gagnon
"No Brain, No Pain"
Dead Link Removed
 






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