Removing Rusted on Rotors

[WudaCudaShuda]

I was wondering if anyone has used this technique to remove rotors?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

If you cant watch the video this guy used:

2 8# 1/2" x 3" bolts

4 large washers

4 1/2" nuts

open ended wrentch

socket wrencth

I have rear rotors on my explorer that are stuck on.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[EasyRhino]

Funny sound effects, but the film dragged in places.:

I've seen/heard of it done that way, but I always use heat and penetrating fluid + a BFH for rotors that are being tossed vice re-used. Never had more than a momentary problem.

You do have to be careful with the heat and it is best to let the penetrating fluid soak awhile, I usually go for overnight.

Typically a 3# hand sledge does the trick for me. No claw hammers need apply.

 

[WudaCudaShuda]

BFH = big hammer I assume!

A Mr Goodwrench, I am not. Thanks to this great economy, I've been forced to do a few things with my truck, and my wifes explorer. I've heard of the heat method, but to be honest I'm not going to use that for a number of reasons--burning our house down (although its worth less than what we owe on it would really upset my wife. I was thinking of using the above video as a 'how to'.

I was thinking of using a penetrating fluid, coupled with a hammer at first, followed by the above techniqe.

Speaking of penetraing fluid. I bought a bottle of Liquid Wrencth Pentrating Oil to prepare for this project. In your opinion, would this stuff work? where exactly should I spray this stuff? and does it matter if it gets all over the place?

Thanks.

 

[FordGT55]

Speaking of penetraing fluid. I bought a bottle of Liquid Wrencth Pentrating Oil to prepare for this project. In your opinion, would this stuff work? where exactly should I spray this stuff? and does it matter if it gets all over the place?

PB Blaster is better FYI. But it doesn't matter where you spray it. Spray mostly on the studs and around that center area. Have brake cleaner handy as well.

 

[WudaCudaShuda]

BP Blaster got it.

Thanks for all the information, I appreciate it.

 

[Carguy3J]

If it's stuck, you're gonna need some heat, whether you like the idea or not. A plumbing torch will suffice. I would use MAPP gas, instead of propane, as it produces a little more heat. Concentrate the heat around the center hole of the rotor, but be sure to heat the rotor, not the hub. Once you've got it nice and hot, soak it w/ PB Blaster (I actually prefer Kroil brand, but it's hard to find, and expensive. PB Blaster is my 2nd choice.) The heat will help "draw" the oil into the joint space between the rotor and hub. It will also cool it rapidly, and cause the metal contract, after the heat made it expand. This cycling can help to break the rust bond. After you've done this, start beating the rotor with the BFH. Repeat the heat/oil spray/hammer wacking several times. It will eventually come off. Also, a few hard blows from a heavy hammer are much more effective than many frantic blows from a lighter hammer. A 5lb mini sledge is good. A full size sledge, if you can get room to swing it at the back of the rotor, is even better.

Of course, you shouldn't even think about reinstalling that rotor.

 

[OneLever]

The more opportunity you give PB Blaster to work into the crevices the better a job it will do. It may help to remove the tire and spray down into the stud holes/backside of the rotor once a day for a week.Being careful no to get it on the friction portion of the rotor or soaking it too much so that centrifugal forces fling it out there either.

 

[WudaCudaShuda]

Did you guys take a look at that Youtube video? I'm curious as to wether or not you believe it to be as easy as the video implies.

When I had the back wheels off two days ago to replace the pads, I tried pulling on the rotor to see if she would come loose, and there was no play at all. However, I didn't try rapping it with a hammer or anything, but leaving that project for another day.

It the video they use the caliper bracket to in essence pry off the rotor------BIG QUESTION: how much back pressure could the caliper take before she bends? Could this happen?

We had the brakes done three years ago, in Jan of '08, at that time the rotors were resurfaced, so obviously the rotors were removed. We live in Ca, never are in freeezing temps, and aside from the few times I've used it on hunting trips, it rarely goes off road. How bad could it be to get off? Hopefully not too tough.

Thanks for all the input, guys.

 

[EasyRhino]

Did you guys take a look at that Youtube video? I'm curious as to wether or not you believe it to be as easy as the video implies.

When I had the back wheels off two days ago to replace the pads, I tried pulling on the rotor to see if she would come loose, and there was no play at all. However, I didn't try rapping it with a hammer or anything, but leaving that project for another day.

It the video they use the caliper bracket to in essence pry off the rotor------BIG QUESTION: how much back pressure could the caliper take before she bends? Could this happen?

We had the brakes done three years ago, in Jan of '08, at that time the rotors were resurfaced, so obviously the rotors were removed. We live in Ca, never are in freeezing temps, and aside from the few times I've used it on hunting trips, it rarely goes off road. How bad could it be to get off? Hopefully not too tough.

Thanks for all the input, guys.

I watched the entire video, and the only thing I would do differently is that I would use the largest diameter bolt that would fit through the caliper bracket if I were to do it that way. Less chance of having the bolt ****ed that way.

Still, I think that way is a lot of extra work and does risk potentially damaging the caliper bracket bolt hole bosses, although the use of heavy cast steel for this part makes it very unlikely that you could bend or break it this way.

Personally, I don't think you'll have that much trouble getting them off, just remember the BFH!

 

[shadowless127]

I've seen/heard of it done that way, but I always use heat and penetrating fluid + a BFH for rotors that are being tossed vice re-used. Never had more than a momentary problem.

This is the technique I utilize as well.

 

[CodePoet]

I've used a similar way to remove rotors as shown on the vid. The rear brake on my f150 was rusted on. I beat on the rotor for 30 minutes or so with no luck. I then made a little tool with a piece of scrap and a 1/2" bolt to press it off. It worked great and took less than a minute to pop the rotor off. The tool did buckle while I tightened it down but it was scrap anyway haha.

 

[road2damascus]

I had the same issue on my rears as well. I have never used the technique in the video. I just hit them with a hammer until they fell off. Took a good 15 minutes a side but I am persistent.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

REAR rotors on the EX/Monty are due to the internal-hat parking brake not Rust.

There is not an internal shoe adjuster like old-school drum brakes.

With a truly stuck park brake on the internal-hat design... reside yourself that new rear rotors maybe in your future. If you change the pads at 50-60K I can't imagine, even in NE or NW US or Canada, where rust is present/prevelant, that the rust would be so bad that a good WHACK with a rubber, 5lb mallet wouldn't knock the rotor loose. Unless neglected.

Cool video, great music...
Rob

 

[82R100]

I had to do this on our '99 mountaineer 3 years ago. Finally ended up buying a 3 arm puller from Harbor Freight. Very, very stubborn and had noyhing to do with the parking brake shoes.

- Chris