Finish adding new bushing sleeve too the door strikes and this is my opinion
as follows:
1. The door striker bracket has a recess groove in back center of the bracket.
I measure off the inside body line, using a drill bit. The rear doors where 1/16 inch off inside body line. So I used a 1/16 angle iron and that work out well between the inside body line and striker bracket it kept the bracket square and allow you adjust the striker bracket into position.
2. I did mark the striker bracket, first before starting replacement; but the striker bracket, where either replacement Unit and missing the bushing.
3. My front doors used a 27/64 drill bit gap between the inside body line and striker bracket it kept the bracket square and allow you adjust the striker bracket into position.
4. The replacement bushing where a little too long. So when I tighten the striker bolt up, the bushing bulge, which did not allow the door too close. So I cut off a small amount of the bushing, with a body saw, to get the bushing too sit flat.
5. The Spacing washer goes between the body and bracket.
6. Just a note: the striker bracket sit in a pocket. The pillar pocket and inside body line, has two line top and bottom 27/64 inch from the striker bracket and body line.
7. Replace each door one door at a time. This way you know which lock, is not fully closed, causing the dome light and the door ajar indicator message on the dash too illuminate. My year does not indicate, which door is causing the issue.
