Replacing Engine 4.0 v6 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Replacing Engine 4.0 v6

Apexmaster

Active Member
Joined
December 27, 2018
Messages
74
Reaction score
17
City, State
kirkland
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 Ford explorer
So I have confirmed, the head gasket is blown on one of the heads. I rather buy a whole used engine and drop it in. I have done several swaps before such as S10 v6 swap, 2 Honda Civic , and Cummins 5.9.
I'm not sure with Ford if I can run my ECM, for new motor or I need to find a motor with its current ECM?
Can I buy a long block and transfer my wiring harness, and all accessories and run it like that?
I remember for the S10 swap, I had to hire a guy from Craiglist who had a software to make the new ECU work with the truck.
I see a lot of different engines under 100k for sale. Fully build meaning ECU ,harness all accessories, and just plain long block.
What would be easiest route to get another motor in my explorer?
Thank you
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





You can drop in any long block 4.0l SOHC from any sport trac, explorer, mustang, land rover, ranger, B series mazda, or anything else that ran a 4.0sohc from 97 to 2010. Long blocks are all interchangeable, just need to swap the window dressing.
 






I know i can put any motor I want. I can drop a Ferrari motor in there if i had the cash and time. I just need a OEM replacement, not have to worry PCM,TCM, ECU issue or having to Code Modules like in my Audi.

so long block be way to go?
what would you do?
ps, i dont think mine has sport trac? its 4x4 but no sport trac button. 8th letter in VIN is K
 






I know i can put any motor I want. I can drop a Ferrari motor in there if i had the cash and time. I just need a OEM replacement, not have to worry PCM,TCM, ECU issue or having to Code Modules like in my Audi.

so long block be way to go?
what would you do?
ps, i dont think mine has sport trac? its 4x4 but no sport trac button. 8th letter in VIN is K
@Apexmaster
You cannot "Have Sport Trac"; it's a model with a truck bed. What @Tech By Trade trade is saying, I believe, is that if you replace only the hardware like engine block and heads, all your old trimmings will work. If different models of same engine are used, problems might come up with injector sizes, etc. imp
 






Got it. Thanks
I found brand new long block zero miles from rock auto w 3 year warranty from 1700 bucks.
That's too much. I'm looking for swap under 1000 bucks close to 100k
 






Got it. Thanks
I found brand new long block zero miles from rock auto w 3 year warranty from 1700 bucks.
That's too much. I'm looking for swap under 1000 bucks close to 100k
@Apexmaster
I hope you find what you are looking for. We are all on limited budgets, it seems, and the least-priced-replacements often bite us in the ass! No way of judging ahead of time. I hope you do OK.
 






I'm not looking for a cheap one. I don't need to a brand new motor. All swap I have done I have bought used engines for.
 






I’m curious, why not just pull the head and replace the gasket. Seems like a lot less work.

Are there other issues with the motor?
 






No other issues.
I read if it's driver side head it is easy to pull head. If it is passenger side head you have to pull motor to get head off. At that point might as well do a swap.
I need to find out which head is bad first of all. If it's a head gasket.
I also read it could be the plastic thermostat housing . They are known to leak.
 






No other issues.
I read if it's driver side head it is easy to pull head. If it is passenger side head you have to pull motor to get head off. At that point might as well do a swap.
I need to find out which head is bad first of all. If it's a head gasket.
I also read it could be the plastic thermostat housing . They are known to leak.
So, it’s a clearance issue, I’ll have to remember that.

For me, if I had the time to lay-up the truck, I would repair my motor then put it back in. I think that would be the easiest (no PCM issue) & cheapest option, with the added plus of knowing the condition of the motor.

Whichever way you go, if you pull the motor, do the timing cassettes, at the very least do the rear as it needs to be done with the motor out.
 






Yes, I read about those as well. If it's passenger side head I will buy another engine. If it's drivers head I will open it and replace head gasket. I can do head gasket in several hours
 






My $0.02; it took me a few hours to clean my block/ both banks yesterday. New gaskets and fresh rebuilt heads along with a quality timing set is peace of mind vs my prior “new” engine purchase. Find a local engine builder. Be cautious of some of the big outfits out there. Try local if you can.

I just paid <$350 for two complete rebuild heads - valve job, pressure test, a few guides, seats, seals, springs, lifters, resurfaced, reassembled and spotless. Trusted local machine shop. Fraction of the cost of a new reman motor.

My experience with some of the big dealers has not been good. Unless you buy from Ford....
 






wow ok
So you can buy a used engine from any of the models listed above
I would avoid any SOHC engine built before 2002 as they got better as the years went on 2004+ are very good engines
You only need the engine
You will only use the long block and retain all of your intakes, sensors, wiring, plumbing, computer, fuel rail, etc. You will only use the new long block to replace your current engine. Keep the old engine around until the swap is COMPLETE

There are thousands of good used engines out there for your model.
It is often cheaper and easier to just swap the engine with a known good one then it is to try and fix head gaskets, timing chains, etc
With a reputable wrecker/recycler you can get a used engine that was tested before pulled and will come with a warranty

If it is just your thermostat housing leaking then you do not need an engine
But you started this thread saying it is indeed a bad head/gasket and then later said it maybe the thermostat housing?
Step one figure out what the problem is

There are all metal thermostat housings avail to replace the weak plastic stock part
 






Agree with everything you suggest. I might, with the motor still out of the truck, replace the rear timing cassette.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top