Replacing Rear Hatch

[That1Guy]

Hey Everyone!

Its been a long time since i've been on the boards, i've been explorerless since 2005 when i traded my 02 sport in on a Grand Am (worse choice... ever) Well im back in an Explorer Sport again, this time a wedgwood blue 99 4x4 that i scored for 700 bucks. I got it for a steal with only 125k miles on it, all the maintance records since new... but in need of some repairs and tlc.

My biggest task, besides having the rusted rockers taken care of is to replace the rear hatch. The handle itself is completely rusted out... so here in lays my question.

1. How do i get the hatch open since the handle doesnt work? (the glass won't open either)

and

2. How hard is it and what do you have to do to replace the hatch?

I found a salvage yard near by that has one in my color and perfect condition for $300, and a rear bumper for $150 (its rusting too)

I love Ohio winters and road salt... they wreak havoc on a vehicle... doesn't help that it wasn't washed very often.

Thanks Everyone!

- Brad

 

[black03xltsport]

Brad,

I just replaced the hatch on my daughter '98 sport. Took about and hour. To answer your first question...Unless someone knows a better way to open the hatch, I would just cut the sheet metal to expose the lock set, you should be able to actuate the release. Alternatively, if you are going to replace the plastic interior trim with your salvage piece, you could expose the lock set from the inside. Not sure you will have the clearance from the inside to remove the trim panel without destroying it.
Once you get the hatch open here’s what you’ll need to do.
1. Drop the headliner at the back of the passenger compartment (I just undid the two push clips on the driver’s side) to expose the wiring connections. There are two connectors that you have to free from the roof and then disconnect.
2. Remove the two nuts the hold the weather seal for the hatch wiring harness and pull the wiring out of the body.
3. Remove the washer line from the connector at the body on the passenger’s side.
4. Loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the hatch (I took the glass out first but I think you can leave it in.) Remove one bolt from each side.
5. You’ll need a friend for this next step… While your friend supports the hatch, undo the hatch struts from the body by prying the metal clips off at the connectors.
6. Remove the remaining two bolts from the hatch. The hatch is now free.
7. If you want to use the existing lock cylinder, you’ll have to swap it into the new hatch. Your efforts to open the hatch have probably made you an expert on accessing the lock mechanism. To remove the interior trim on the donor hatch remove the plugs by the glass latch and remove the trim screw. Remove the two screws that hold the pull handle and remove the handle. Pull the top of the trim straight back until it is free the pull the trim piece up to release the bottom.
8. The lock mechanism is held in place by two bolts. You may need to loosen or remove some of the bolts that hold the actuator rod assemblies in place and you will need to remove glass latch and one actuator rod from the lock to free the lock assembly.
Hope this helps.

 

[TomCat_Ford]

While I have not tried it (I've had the piece off, but my hatch opens), there appears to be a few members here who have managed to remove the interior trim piece without being able to get the lift gate open.

They say to remove the bolts holding the strap handle on, remove the clips at the top, bring the top part of the trim forward, and pull up on the trim piece. The bottom isn't held on with clips, it slides into place.

 

[That1Guy]

Thanks Guys!

I've figured out how to get the hatch open, well i didn't, the mechanic i had put my new shocks on (mine were so rusted, it took them 2 hours to put on 4 shocks) figured it out.

The rear hatch was so rusted around the handle, im actually able to reach up there and just push the release and get the hatch open.

Im hoping to go pick up my new hatch tomorrow, than hopefully get it on this weekend. Seams like a pretty easy and straight forward job... next project, rusted rockers lol

Thanks again!

- Brad