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ring and pinion question

97redsport

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November 2, 2006
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City, State
Bismarck, ND
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer Sport
I spoke with a driveline place today, and gave them the issues I have been have with the cluck. I haven’t had a chance to get under there lube up the slip yoke. I wanted to get their opinion on the cluck that I am getting. I am point more towards the u-joints right now. I don't want to stick a bunch of money in something that’s not going to fix it. After I told him the clunk noise and when and how I hear it. He said not 100% sure but he thinks it’s the ring and pinion could be louse or something like that. I tried to find some information about this here to see if there is any known issues or ever here of it going out.
 



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Well since no one ever seems to answer any of my questions. I just made an appointment at a drive line shop for u-joints and for them to grease my slip yoke for a 100 bucks next week. So that should cure the issues right up..
 






well ill try to help you out. Just noticed you post.

When you put it into drive does it clunk? When you put it into reverse does it clunk?

If so you most likely have a ujoint prob. I would change it first. It is really easy and does not cost you very much.

Stop that appt. You can do this yourself for 20 bucks or so.
 






Cluck = Trapped Duck

Clunk = Blown U-joint
 






The U joints first make a low pitched squeeking noise every time you tap on the throttle pedal, and eventually develop the clunking noise. The squeek could sound like a bearing, but it's only the U joint.
 






WUT!! $100.oo

Damn it pays to be a machanic...i do them all the time in my co-op class for free, all i use is a big hammer and a big pin punch
 






Throw some corn under the truck... then shoot the clucking chickens that come running for it! :rofl:

Telling us your truck clunks is like me telling you my truck makes a wheeze. Not a very helpful description of the problem. Please give us some more details of the problem: What year, make, and model we're talking about is a good start (although we can see it in your avater), followed by the engine, transmission, driveline, any pertainant modifications that may have been done.

Then, you should wrap up with the information you've been able to find. Did you find anything when you ran a search of this site? Did the mechanic show you anything conclusive that would convince you that the problem lies inside the differential as opposed to being a simple u-joint? Could it be something in the suspension moving when you step on the gas? It could be something serious, or it could be nothing... but simply saying you have a clunk doesn't help us troubleshoot it via the internet.

So, please, give us some more information. I'm sure you've been around the site long enough to know how many of us love to help others when we can!!

As for my thoughts, my first reaction when I read the post is, "This mechanic is trying to take this guy for a ride." I've said this before and it bears repeating: Any halfway competent mechanic worth his salt should be able to not only tell you what needs to be examined conclusively, he should be able to explain to you WHY it needs to be examined, and what led him to that conclusion. For example, if your mechanic had said, "Well, I checked the u-joints and they're all tight, but when I wiggled the the back end of the driveshaft, I noticed some play in the pinion shaft. Here, let me show you {wiggles shaft and shows you the movement}. The only way to see what's wrong is to open up the diff, and that's going to cost $XXXXX. From there, we'll be able to evaluate the problem." then I'd be willing to believe him. Any mechanic that can diagnose a diff problem without so much as popping the cover is to be taken out back and beaten with his own wrenches!
 






So my ride is a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 98,ooo miles. The place I took it to, we went for a test run and couldn't replicate the sounds. So I gave my idea of the problem, which my slip was binding and when it frees it pops and that’s the clunk I am getting. He said the u-joints could be or where burring. He did show me them when I picked it up yesterday and I did see the wear marks. So when I picked it up yesterday and drove it, it was perfect. Felt really tight and didn't have any lose feeling. But after I start driving this morning and hitting the normal road dips, minor holes. I have other shakes and rattles too. But this one is different. When I am slowing down I or when it’s downshifting at low speeds it clunks. Even when I am stopped and my foot is on the brake I can fell like something giving out. After I get it when is slowing down. This is what I have done, I had an axle seal leak, so new seals, rear e-brake shoes, rear rotors and pads. The u-joints where done 2 days ago, and the slip were greased. I am going to call him when I have a break today. I am pointing to the tranny or the ring and pinion. So if any of you fine folks can offer up some great knowledge, it would be great.
 






I'd put my money on the slip yoke... lubricating it worked for a couple days, but the problem is back... common issue. A lip forms on the shaft where it *normally* runs. When you brake, and the nose dives, the tail comes up slightly, extending the slip joint. When the vehicle stops, and the suspension settles, the slip yoke may or may not slide back together. If it hangs on the 'lip' that has formed, then releases, that can be the source of the clunk.

To check the theory, throw a few hundred pounds in the back of the ex to squat the suspension (moving the slip yoke to a new spot on the spline) and see if the clunk goes away. Let us know what you find. :)
 






I might try that by just removing my subs and spare tire. But when I was driving home today i just got to thinking it could be the tranny. So I dropped into fist and second, back and forth. At different speed to. I got the most result when at around 30 I would go from 2nd to D with overdrive off. Back and forth for about 4 times and every time I got it sometimes not as loud. But This is what I got, so again you opinions are great.
 






Well I figured that putting 200lbs in the there, or removing some wont do any thing. I can be driving strait no bumps no brake. Just going from second to drive. It will clunk back and forth all day long. What is it the tranny or something on the t-case? Some help is needed to pinpoint this problem any help is great.
 






someone anyone.. HELP HELP
 






AUTO 4x4 engaging when it shouldn't be?

I did the brown sire mod and often if I'm trying to drive with Auto on I'll get "clunk"-ing noise that I can feel in the floor. Turn the switch (brown wire mod) to off and it all goes away.

You could test this yourself by pulling the 4x4 fuse. Your light will blink but that's ok.

Also, crawl under the truck and look at the u-joint. Try and sping/move the drive shaft around and look for ANY paly.
 






tranny mount rubber gone or broken bolt radius bushings front axle ????? turn up radio till u cant hear it :) i know always one joker in the crowd
 






AUTO 4x4 engaging when it shouldn't be?

I did the brown sire mod and often if I'm trying to drive with Auto on I'll get "clunk"-ing noise that I can feel in the floor. Turn the switch (brown wire mod) to off and it all goes away.

You could test this yourself by pulling the 4x4 fuse. Your light will blink but that's ok.

Also, crawl under the truck and look at the u-joint. Try and sping/move the drive shaft around and look for ANY paly.

I will try that first thing when i get home by pulling the fuse. I haven't heard of this brown mod. Does that just disable the auto engage feature for 4x4.
 






tranny mount rubber gone or broken bolt radius bushings front axle ????? turn up radio till u cant hear it :) i know always one joker in the crowd

you funny guy.. my boom does help but not enough to make my foot not feel it..
 












I didn’t get to pull the fuse. But I though about it for a while and got this IDEA. Ok if I had the 4x4 disabled by pulling the fuse, I wouldn't hear it dis/engaging. Then there wouldn’t be a cluck. Now if I have it in 4 high and everything is locked and nothing has the chance to dis/engage you wouldn't hear anything. Would this in a way be the same as pulling the fuse? Or again am I just wasting your time. I would have pulled the fuse and gone that route but it was pouring rain all night. I was looking at the manual to look at the fuses, I couldn’t find which one I should pull. I saw 2 or 3 for AETC fuses. So I also wanted to clarify which one I should pull.
 






So I pulled the fuse before I went to work this morning. Well it didn’t change anything, but piss me off more cause it knocked out my windows. I looked at what that fuse controlled and it didn’t say that did anything with the windows. So is there anything else you guys have up your sleeves that it could be..
 



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So I took it back to the driveline shop yesterday. We took it for a drive so he could hear and fell what I am talking about. Now what I am going to say might not be exactly in the correct jargon. So we took off should him the clunk when I was shifting back from 2nd to drive and few time. He was noticing the RPM when it was shifting it would only drop only 400 RPM, but on a normal shift it would drop around a 1000 RPM. He said when it was shift at 400 was the converter and that what I was hearing the clunk. It was shifting with the torque converter and it was either shifting hard, I didn’t understand exactly how he explained it. But he said I should get the tranny serviced. Now exactly what servicing means, tranny flush, filter or what I don’t know. He told me to take it to a tranny shop and get some additive to clean it or service; again I don’t know what means.
 






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