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rjcooperss396 V6 to V8 Swap

Issue wasn't the transfer case.

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Ouch
 






wow.. what were you doing when that let go?
 






It happened when my wife was driving. She was on her way to meet her sister for lunch and was only doing 40 on a side street on her way to the freeway. She said it made a huge bang and then would just rev. I was able to drive it home after putting putting the transfer case in N and then pushing it a little and then into 4H. However it lost 4H when I pulled into our housing track which is what made me think it was the transfer case. I didn't realize the BW4406 used an electro magnet for 4H. I found that out when I pulled the transfer case and opened it up. As soon as I saw that I pulled the diff cover and saw the spider gears laying there. I don't have the cash to upgrade right now so I'm just going to pull another carrier from the local Pick-A-Part and install it.
 






Oh ok. weird. Yeah the electronic version of the 4406 uses an electromagnet for for 4H auto. It has the capability of a mechanical lock 4H but not using the explorer 4x4 controls. I'm pushing around 350 RWHP through my stock 8.8 ring and pinion and spider gears. I put an axle girdel diff cover on it and hardened axle halfs without a problem so far.
 






I'm running the stock 28 spline carrier in my Cobra and was putting down 471rwhp on the race gas tune with the old 302. The new 347 should make 510-520 on the same tune and I've broke one carrier. It actually split the case. I think the reason it broke is because when I installed the 4.56 gears I notched the pin to install it instead of buying one of the ones that are already notched. I was told later by a friend who races 4150 trucks that he clearances the the teeth on the ring gear just enough to install the pin which is what I'm going to do this time.
 






I got to looking back in this thread and I realized that you have the manual shift 4406. It should have a mechanical lock into 4H. I didn't think that those even had the electronic clutch in them.
 






It does, it even has the brown wire. What's wierd is it worked for part of the time and has always worked in 4L even though I never had any power to it. Once I put it back together I'll run a toggle to the brown wire so that 4H works.
 






I put the rear end back together on Saturday. I went over to GTR Friday night to use their bearing removal tool and press but the tool they had was rounded on one side and it didn't work. So Saturday morning I took my grinder and cut the old bearings off. I cut them down so there was just a thin bit a metal left and then tapped them with a hammer which cracked them thin metal. Then I just slid them off by hand. Before I installed the new bearings I clearanced the teeth on the ring gear so I could install the pin. Here's how it turned out.

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Then on Sunday I put the transfer case back together, which was a pain to do without a good pair of snap ring pliers. I had to remove a snap ring on the main shaft so I could remove it from the rear portion of the case to reassemble it but my cheap pliers would just bend. The only tool I had that I could spread it far enough with was a pair of small needle nose pliers. So I had my wife use a flat head screw driver to push it while I used the needle nose pliers. Once I got the case back together I installed it back in the truck along with the front and rear driveshafts, the exhaust and the fuel tank.

Everything is now working again. Well except that the amp went out so it doesn't have a radio but that's just how it goes. The truck has been sitting for a couple weeks and I forgot that the amp quit working. It's a 5 channel Sony and is about 11 years old. I'll have to wait for my income tax return before I can replace it with another 5 channel amp though.
 






I scheduled my appointment to have the truck inspected for the engine conversion. My appointment is on March 6th so hopefully all goes well and I'll have a BAR cert for it.
 






The brown wire/clutch is for shift on the fly. It spins up the front shaft to speed.
 






So 4H should be locked all the time no matter what? On mine it isn't, only 4L is.
 






Once you pull the shifter into 4H then it should be locked. The only time it shouldn't be locked is obviously when you are in 2WD..
 






i think, THINK you guys with 95, and 96 are a little different because of the front axle. 97 and up are live all the time, where 95-96 are vacuum operated. i know in my 98, if i put it in 4wd, no matter if its stopped or not, its engaged, and same if i put it in 2wd. rolling or stopped. something tells me you have to activate the front axle if you have the vacuum box on it. i could be wrong however.
 






There are two different versions of the BW4406 one with TOD and the other without. I'm pretty sure mine has TOD which explains why it uses clutches and the electro magnet. I'll play with it when I have time and see if powering the brown wire locks up the clutches in 4H.
 






I thnk RJ did a SAS on the front so that shouldn't be the problem either, unless he has locking hubs that aren't functioning properly.

RJ, if you can shift your transfercase manually, which from the pictures that is what it appears, then it whould lock into 4H as soon as you put the lever there, it should have nothing to do with the electromagnet regardless if you have on in there or not. If you are sure that it isn't locking in 4H with the lever then you have another issue in your transfercase. Any idea what vehicle and year that 4406 came out of?
 






I do have a SAS and I used a D30 out of a 1988 Cherokee. It doesn't have manual hub so the front is always turning which is why I went with an ARB air locker in it. The BW4406 I have came out of a 1997 F150. When my wife broke down I was able to drive home on the front axle by putting the truck in 4H. However, it didn't always work. The first time I put it in 4H it didn't move. I then put the t-case in N and pushed the truck forward and then back in 4H and it was locked in 4H. However, there was traffic coming so I wasn't able to go. When traffic cleared the front axle was unlocked again so the engine just reved. I then did the same thing which was put the t-case in N, pushed it forward and then back to 4H which worked again. After making the u-turn to head home it lost it again. I did the same thing a third time and was able to drive home until I pulled into my housing track where it unlocked again. This time though putting it in N and pushing it a little didn't work. So I tried 4L and it worked fine.

This weekend I'll put the truck up on jack stands and play with 4H and the brown wire and see what happens. When I thought the issue was the transfer case I started looking up parts for it and found that there are two main shafts, one for Torque On Demand and one for without. When I opened up the case and saw that it had the electro magnet what happened on the drive home made more since but what didn't make since is that 4L worked at all. I thought that when the t-case was put in 4L that it just applied power to the magnet to lock the clutches but apparently that is not correct because I never had power to the brown wire.
 






The TOD version uses the electromagnet for 4hi only, the rest is from the shift motor engaging 4lo etc. The 4hi isn't done with the shift motor in the TOD models. I was looking at ways to rewire the 4WD switch etc. It looked like it would take using the big truck's GEM, or maybe the switch from a 98 Expedition, and some interesting wiring.
 






The TOD version uses the electromagnet for 4hi only, the rest is from the shift motor engaging 4lo etc. The 4hi isn't done with the shift motor in the TOD models. I was looking at ways to rewire the 4WD switch etc. It looked like it would take using the big truck's GEM, or maybe the switch from a 98 Expedition, and some interesting wiring.

Exactly what I've seen too. That's as far as I got in my planning/ dreaming for making the 4406 TOD work like an expeditions does. The fancy wiring that would have to be done discouraged any further thought for me.
 



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I figured out how to mount the later switch, but not the wiring. I got the switches and the 98 Expedition GEM, but given where I'm at with everything else, I figured I'd wait until I did the actual 4406 swap first. In the end the switch will look identical(same knob), but it will move one more position to the left(2WD and not labeled). It'd look stock like a V6 bezel, but the switch would be from the big trucks, and the bezel mounts in back epoxied to bolt it on.
 






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