Roof Rack Mounting Help/Advice Needed

DjDom · March 4, 2015

Your dropbox links don't work.

I would start by seeing how much vibration it would put out if it was just tied into the roof rack area.

If you want to play it safe, you could just install a true roof rack on the roof, drilled in properly, and make that seem like it's stock, then just mount the lights up to the cross bars of that roof rack.

Here's how one of our members mounted up his:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3383412&postcount=26

dogfish246 · March 4, 2015

DjDom said:
Your dropbox links don't work.

I would start by seeing how much vibration it would put out if it was just tied into the roof rack area.

If you want to play it safe, you could just install a true roof rack on the roof, drilled in properly, and make that seem like it's stock, then just mount the lights up to the cross bars of that roof rack.

Here's how one of our members mounted up his:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3383412&postcount=26

Thanks man! That stinks the links wont work. Let me try some new links. I like that design but I am really trying hard to not drill any holes in the sheet metal.

Here is my design (this link should work):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tl3fkehy5gqgu2f/Truck Rack.jpg?dl=0

SLAYERMIKE · March 4, 2015

I don't think you want to tie the front of that into your cab as the cab and box will flex independently. I would add a support from the top of the head ache rack to the box rail about 18" back or so to triangulate it.

DjDom · March 4, 2015

I agree. I was the same way, really didn't want to drill holes in anything. But once you get your first hole drilled, you realize it's not do bad. Holes won't hurt so long as you use the right tools.
If I were you, I'd mount up a roof rack there, at least the rails, then put the light on those rails.

Off topic.. Where the hell do I know that truck from. I've seen it somewhere before but I just can't remember where...

dogfish246 · March 5, 2015

SLAYERMIKE said:
I don't think you want to tie the front of that into your cab as the cab and box will flex independently. I would add a support from the top of the head ache rack to the box rail about 18" back or so to triangulate it.

Interesting point. I didnt think about that. How much flex do you think there is? I guess I will have to tie in more support to the headache rack from the bed rails if there isnt enough support as is.

DjDom said:
I agree. I was the same way, really didn't want to drill holes in anything. But once you get your first hole drilled, you realize it's not do bad. Holes won't hurt so long as you use the right tools.
If I were you, I'd mount up a roof rack there, at least the rails, then put the light on those rails.

Off topic.. Where the hell do I know that truck from. I've seen it somewhere before but I just can't remember where...

I guess it is just the first step you need to take and once you do it (and do it right) it is done.

SLAYERMIKE · March 5, 2015

dogfish246 said:
Interesting point. I didnt think about that. How much flex do you think there is? I guess I will have to tie in more support to the headache rack from the bed rails if there isnt enough support as is.

There is enough flex that it would rip the cab mounts off at the weakest point or do some damage.

I did a quick sketch for you, I put bigger tube and triangulated the top and put a triangulated support from the top tube to the box rail as well a gusset at the bottom this should work as long as you use the 0.125" wall tube you mentioned. I would also leave more room between the cab and headache rack for movement.
The other option would be a roof rack separate from the headache rack mounted directly to your roof.

DjDom · March 5, 2015

Still think a separate roof rack is your best bet. I actually didn't think about the flex between the cab and bed. But there is actually quite a bit of flex. So much that if you mount that roof bar very close to the cab, and you encounter some really bad terrain, you could possibly dent your roof with it. As silly as it sounds, pickups flex quite a bit.

But you didn't answer, where do I know your truck from..?

dogfish246 · March 10, 2015

SLAYERMIKE said:
There is enough flex that it would rip the cab mounts off at the weakest point or do some damage.

I did a quick sketch for you, I put bigger tube and triangulated the top and put a triangulated support from the top tube to the box rail as well a gusset at the bottom this should work as long as you use the 0.125" wall tube you mentioned. I would also leave more room between the cab and headache rack for movement.
The other option would be a roof rack separate from the headache rack mounted directly to your roof.

Thanks for the info. I tested the flex to see how much there was and there was 15mm of flex between the bed and cab from just driving up a pile of snow. I would have never though of that so thanks so much!

dogfish246 · March 10, 2015

DjDom said:
Still think a separate roof rack is your best bet. I actually didn't think about the flex between the cab and bed. But there is actually quite a bit of flex. So much that if you mount that roof bar very close to the cab, and you encounter some really bad terrain, you could possibly dent your roof with it. As silly as it sounds, pickups flex quite a bit.

But you didn't answer, where do I know your truck from..?

I dont know where you know my truck from lol... YouTube is my only guess.

Yea, I calculated the flex and will build the bar up high enough and see how it works. If it does get close, then I will have a plan B:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_6HQ1Xb5W4

Any idea of what motors he used to turn the lights???

Roof Rack Mounting Help/Advice Needed

DjDom

dogfish246

Active Member

SLAYERMIKE

Well-Known Member

DjDom

dogfish246

Active Member

SLAYERMIKE

Well-Known Member

DjDom

dogfish246

Active Member

dogfish246

Active Member

Featured images

Featured images

Similar Threads