Roof rack?

[numskull223]

I've got 95 sport explorer. And I have no roof rack on it. I went to the local salvage yard, pulled one and noticed the top has the bolt holes in the top.

Mine has no bolt hole or any mounting holes for one.

Where or how do I mount a roof rack on it. It looks naked.

 

[Spudhut]

Copy and Paste...measure holes on the one you took the rack off - and drill and install. Should work...

 

[J_C]

Just lay the rack on your roof where you want it to mark the holes for drilling.

Someone who has had their head liner out could confirm this but I suspect there ought to be some reinforcement, that the bolts don't just attach to the single layer of sheet metal that's the roof. Fender washers against the inside wall of the roof might help? Or is there reinforcement (welded?) there already because a roof rack was an option?

 

[numskull223]

The one I was taking it off of had reinforced and has countersink nuts in roof. I really dont think I want to drill holes in the roof tho.

 

[J_C]

^ I think holes would be a lot more secure than super glue or duct tape.

What I would do is use sheet rubber to make waterproofing gaskets, or some hardware stores sell pre-cut sheet rubber (or neoprene?) washers, or just load the hole and hardware up with silicone caulking during installation to seal it good, let it set then use a water hose to check for leaks before putting the headliner back on.

 

[Turdle]

No. screws through the roof will not secure the rack and or load you are going to put up there. There are supposed to be welded in attachment studs.

In your case you will need to make some 1/4" thick cross bracing for 5 screw points on each side. !/4" thick should provide enough meat for threading.
Possibly a 2" wide strap under the roof ( front to rear, between headliner and roof metal)) with threads, it may need to bend a bit to conform to the roof curve.

 

[HarryN]

The one I was taking it off of had reinforced and has countersink nuts in roof. I really dont think I want to drill holes in the roof tho.

Hi - I am planning to take off the roof rack rails of a 1995 Explorer.

The reason is that I want to put a different setup on it and use an approach that I use on Transit vans if possible.

On the Transits, there are nuts welded to the inside of the roof sheet metal so that a screw can be put on from the outside and not affect the inside headliner.

Is that how these explorers are also set up?

If so that would make life a lot easier for me.

I have looked at about 10 roof rack threads so far and it wasn't obvious (yet)

Thanks

Harry

 

[XLTrunner]

Yes...there are blind nuts spot welded on the inner sheet metal roofs on the Explorer. How do I know? I accidentally broke one loose when trying to remove one of the rear rail screws. Unfortunately, it's between two layers of roof sheet metal and near impossible to access in order to replace with a regular nut.

 

[HarryN]

Yes...there are blind nuts spot welded on the inner sheet metal roofs on the Explorer. How do I know? I accidentally broke one loose when trying to remove one of the rear rail screws. Unfortunately, it's between two layers of roof sheet metal and near impossible to access in order to replace with a regular nut.

Thanks - Maybe I need to rethink all of this on a 25 year old vehicle.

 

[C420sailor]

I’m not aware of the roof rack being optional…?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m not aware of the roof rack being optional…?

The early SPORT XLs could be extremely stripped down. I think my first gen only had 4wd, and power windows and locks.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Like this

 

[XLTrunner]

Where there's a will, there's a way. Suppose a person could drop the headliner and cut access holes in the inside layer of roof sheet metal for access in using conventional nuts.

 

[HarryN]

I put solar panels on Ford Transit vans for conversion van / recreational use, and was going to attempt to replicate this on my 95 explorer.

Nothing too complex - just some brackets and 1515 rail to raise the panels high enough to clear the center of the roof. My measurements look like it can work - if I remove the factory rails first.

The Ford Transits also have a welded in nut at I think 8 positions on the roof for mounting stuff. Same concept, just a stronger rating.

In theory, I can get 2 panels up there if I use the 1515 rails approach, so ~300 watts.

 

[XLTrunner]

Cool idea. What exactly would you be powering inside an Explorer?

8 blind nuts for the roof rails (4 each side) sounds about right on my Explorer. All but the one came out without a problem. I've since tried removing a couple other racks on these vehicles at the JY and there were always at least a couple screws that gave me trouble. Usually, it resulted in stripping out the slots in the phillips head screws before the blind nut let go. I'm no novice when it comes to removing stubborn bolts/nuts/screws living here in the Rust Belt...but, despite my careful efforts and use of PB Blaster as I slowly backed it in and out, it still fought me and the nut let go inside the panel. I pulled down the rear corner of the headliner to see if I couldn't get access to it and there was only a hole in the inner panel large enough to reach as far back as I could with the tip of my finger to feel it turning. No way to get a wrench on it to hold it while trying to finish extracting it...let alone to get a replacement nut on an installation. As I said, I could have probably cut a larger opening if I really wanted to...but, I wasn't that motivated and just left things as they were and put some RTV around the screw head to prevent leaks. Hardly ever use the rack, anyway. Good luck if you do decide to proceed.

 

[HarryN]

Cool idea. What exactly would you be powering inside an Explorer?

8 blind nuts for the roof rails (4 each side) sounds about right on my Explorer. All but the one came out without a problem. I've since tried removing a couple other racks on these vehicles at the JY and there were always at least a couple screws that gave me trouble. Usually, it resulted in stripping out the slots in the phillips head screws before the blind nut let go. I'm no novice when it comes to removing stubborn bolts/nuts/screws living here in the Rust Belt...but, despite my careful efforts and use of PB Blaster as I slowly backed it in and out, it still fought me and the nut let go inside the panel. I pulled down the rear corner of the headliner to see if I couldn't get access to it and there was only a hole in the inner panel large enough to reach as far back as I could with the tip of my finger to feel it turning. No way to get a wrench on it to hold it while trying to finish extracting it...let alone to get a replacement nut on an installation. As I said, I could have probably cut a larger opening if I really wanted to...but, I wasn't that motivated and just left things as they were and put some RTV around the screw head to prevent leaks. Hardly ever use the rack, anyway. Good luck if you do decide to proceed.

The shop that I rent for my work has no utilities at all. All of my tools are normal plug types. It power the lights, fan, and power for my drill press, circular saw, chop saw and heat gun (for shrinking electrical connection insulation). Also a microwave for warming up a few things.

It also serves as back up power for the critical loads during power outages, such as the 2 refrigerators, cell phone charging, etc.

I have some extra panels at home and at the shop that I plugged into the van (now planned for the explorer) to generate extra power when needed.

When I am doing yard work out front, it is actually easier to just plug into the vehicle than to run a cord to the garage, so that happens as well.

Once you have a normal 120 vac outlet in your vehicle, it becomes difficult to imagine not having it.

 

[HarryN]

So - I tested the idea of removing the existing roof rack by soaking some of the screws with WD-40 to see if that would make it easier.

After attempting to remove 6 of the screws using a decent but not excessive amount of torque (by hand vs a 10 ft cheater bar) , not a single one would budge so it looks like the standard rack is going to remain, and I will be mounting a single solar panel to it instead of adding a replacement roof mount.

 

[J_C]

^ Time to get out the Angle Grinder... Except I do hate disturbing headliners on older vehicles. Sometimes they don't survive.

 

[HarryN]

^ Time to get out the Angle Grinder... Except I do hate disturbing headliners on older vehicles. Sometimes they don't survive.

It is probably more productive for me to spend time on a mounting method for the existing rack, even if I end up with less total solar panel watts.

Also this way, it might be useful / inspire others.