Rounding Bolts on Trans

[IZwack]

I always thought that 6pt was better for grabbing it, but two people today told me that 12pt was better...even though there is less of a contact area on it.

I think its better if you're obviously using a 12-pt bolt (like at the driveshaft flanges).

 

[bmxking5]

Well, I just broke my f**king clutch pedal too. Another thing I've got to get this week. :fire: I'm going to bed and I'll see what else wants to break tomorrow. :fire: :fire:

 

[Glacier991]

When you get it out, I plan to start a thread so the 12 pt folks can tell me why 12 pt is better. I'm ready to prove them wrong, or learn something totally new after 30 years. Physics hasn't changed since creation.

 

[bmxking5]

To finish it all off, Sears doesn't have any of those socket bolt extractor things. (well, atleast not on their website) Where can I get them?

BTW, will it or won't it destroy the bolt head to get it out? What if it doesn't get it out and I end up with a destroyed bolt head stuck in there?!!

 

[justin146]

Geezus! What tools have you tried so far?

As one of your last resort, you could try to use a bolt extractor that eats into the head:

If you use this with an impact wrench, you can cut the head of the bolt off.

 

[bmxking5]

Too bad I don't have an impact wrench and/or compressor here. If worse comes to worse, I can get my buddy to bring his pansy little compressor over with his badass Snap-On impact w/ tons of torque, which would end up being pretty weak because of the lack of air.

 

[sn0border88]

my local sears has the extractor set....? Odd.

Your shop outta have a set somewhere, id look there.

Also, definatly try coming at it with a vice grip from the top, this is one of the top trans bolts right?

If the extractor dosent work right then just cut the head off, but those things should definatly work.

 

[bmxking5]

They have the kind that you drill first, but these are hardened bolts, so that's not gonna work. I'll go over there tomorrow and look to see if they have it. The problem is that the bolts are about 1-1.5 feet from the opening in the inside, so it's hard to get to them from the top. Plus they are a little higher than the opening since they are on the top. As far as I know, we don't have any extractors at work. I wish it was as simple as just "cutting the head off" but there is literally no room in there so it's gonna be extremely tough to do that.

 

[BrooklynBay]

That picture IZWack posted was from Home Depot. They should have those bolt extractors if Sears doesn't have them. Another place to get them is WWW.Eppys.Com.

 

[IZwack]

Yeah that picture is from HomeDepot

I got my bolt extractors from Sears tho - only because it was on my way home that day. It comes in a nice blow-molded red case


EDIT: UMM its on sale: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&pid=00952160000&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
for 10 dollars! freaking go get it! Today (Sunday) is the last day its on sale.

 

[BrooklynBay]

They sell a few different kits. Each kit has different sizes. I don't know if they sell a master kit.

 

[bmxking5]

So does anyone know what the actual size of that bolt is? 13mm or 1/2? I need to know so that I can get the right set....unless they have both of them in stock for $10, which would mean I'd buy both of them.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Sears had about 4 sets on their website, and even one that is an impact grade.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here's a set from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...o?itemid=92866&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

 

[IZwack]

So does anyone know what the actual size of that bolt is? 13mm or 1/2?

I don think it will matter because the way the bolt remover is designed, it gets smaller as the bolt travels up the teeth. The difference between .5" and 13mm is a ~hundredth of an inch.

Sorry for the earlier link to Sears, it doesnt seem like that kit has one for a .5" or 13mm

Here's one that does - same price:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

 

[BrooklynBay]

The set from Harbor Freight has another useful feature. It has an open inside so that it could even work over studs to remove rounded off nuts.

 

[IZwack]

The set from Harbor Freight has another useful feature. It has an open inside so that it could even work over studs to remove rounded off nuts.

I think the Sears one has that too - though I'm not too sure how large the hole is. It's been a while since I've used it tho - can't remember too well.

 

[RWeaver]

WoW... What a can-o-worms...
I just pulled my A4LD&T-case today. I don't own a 12pt socket because they've always caused me trouble. Had to bum a couple today for the drive shafts. Looks like I'll be going to Sears for a good set of 12pt-ers.

For tight bolts [needing a cheater bar or an impact] I always switch over to the 1/2" drive (6pt) or my impact (also 6pt) sockets. My experience has been more along the line of breaking bolts off rather than rounding them off.

When you get it out, I plan to start a thread so the 12 pt folks can tell me why 12 pt is better. I'm ready to prove them wrong, or learn something totally new after 30 years. Physics hasn't changed since creation.

Yep Glacier, I'd be in your corner here.

 

[Papa]

This is one of those cased where a quality socket as apposed to less expensive one can make a difference since they are not all manufactured to the same fit specification. Getting the socket on squarely will maximize the torque you can apply so do not let it get asque or you are gona make-work for yourself. Heat the bolt cherry red and use an oxy acetylene torch and a heat shield. Do not use a torch without a safety person to stand fire watch. The bolt extractor will also work but again do not twist it out of square. Good luck.

 

[bmxking5]

RWeaver, I don't know why they said 12pt is better. My dad is one of the ones that said 12pt grips better (told me that yesterday), but I know for a fact that he's the one who originally told me "12pt sockets are pieces of crap because they round the bolt too easy".

I was using a breaker bar, 1/2" drive, etc. Both the 13mm and 1/2" sockets fit like a glove on there. I was using Craftsman sockets, and like I said, they fit the bolt head perfectly, so quality/fitment wasn't an issue. It was the fact that they were put back on with a damn impact and the head of the hardened bolts were beaten up from that having been done.

I went to Sears this morning, got the bolt extractor set (not the 5pc. one on sale for $10...only had 3, 5, 7, 9, & 10) but the $30 10pc. set. that has #1-#10. A torch didn't even help loosen it up (I was only able to heat one side because of the lack of space up there), none of the sockets could grab it free, PB Blaster didn't help, vise grips couldn't grip well enough because of the lack of space, and there wasn't any room to fit a chisel/punch in there to try to turn it free.....the extractor set worked like a charm and w/ the help of 3 extensions and a breaker bar, it came off like it was a brand new bolt. If you don't have that bolt extractor set, you should get it.

EDIT: I've got one more bolt that started to round that I'm going to get off in a few minutes, then I've got the very top two that I haven't tried yet. Hopefully I won't run into too many more problems and I can get this new flywheel in today. Thanks again for the help guys.