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rt side wheel camber/toe/wtf/idk

Good info Corkey.. thanks!


As far as the steering wheel running out... I'd think that if you loosened the left side and turned it Exactly one turn (whichever way "lengthens" it, and lock it down) then did the other side the opposite rotation Exactly one turn ("shortening" that side) it would simply shift the drag link right, which would change the angle of the steering wheel clockwise closer to center. I don't understand why that wasn't done at the shop, it's standard procedure IMHO.
Did that make sense?

About the Camber of the wheel.. if it's in spec I'd go with it.. Of course it may be that the alignment shops being dealt with don't keep any shims in stock, therein being the problem. Unless of course it has the max shim in place preventing further adjustment. That would make me think something more is going on.

Do you have a good pic of the front suspension from front?

Mine had a little trouble with this, until I learned on TRS that the axle pivot points needed to be about an inch higher than the axle shafts... My lift kit had two axle pivot holes, so moving the axle pivot to the other hole fixes that problem.
 



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As far as the steering wheel running out... I'd think that if you loosened the left side and turned it Exactly one turn (whichever way "lengthens" it, and lock it down) then did the other side the opposite rotation Exactly one turn ("shortening" that side) it would simply shift the drag link right, which would change the angle of the steering wheel clockwise closer to center. I don't understand why that wasn't done at the shop, it's standard procedure IMHO.
Did that make sense?

no.. it didnt lol if you adjust the toe like that the front wheels will not be in line with the rear wheels. right? idk.

could a bad ball joint cause this? i replaced the lowers in the past few years but cant recall changing the uppers. im still at a loss.. and today a new problem arose, my ps pump is whining. dont know if its the pump going out or old fluid + single digit weather. will have a peek at it tomorrow.

something good though.. scored a Yakima loadwarrior cargo basket for $100! well worth it considering new ones are ~300. threw a fresh coat of paint on it at work today, gonna install it once the temps get back in the double digits.
 






something good though.. scored a Yakima loadwarrior cargo basket for $100! well worth it considering new ones are ~300. threw a fresh coat of paint on it at work today, gonna install it once the temps get back in the double digits.

LLLUUUCCCKKKYYY....i have been looking for one of those since before I even got an SUV just for when I did get an SUV
 






do your wheels have the same offset?
do the rotors have the same offset (measure from the center of the ball joint to the face where the wheel mounts too using a straight edge on it. i've seen differences in rotors from offshore jobbers.
i do my own toe-in alignment by centering the steering wheel and bracing it then i put a string down each side spacing it off the rear wheels evenly and running it past the front tires. you gotta make sure your wheels are not bent and it is sitting level. this will also tell you if your rear axle is out of whack. i've never tried a laser light but that might be a new toy to play with. it can change when you get in it or add a load to the back. even passengers change the way the wheels will point.
another way to do toe-in adjustments is to rotate the front tires and mark them with yellow crayon then scribe a line on the yellow mark as you slowly rotate them. set it back down on the ground and make sure it sits in it's normal stance by moving it forwards and back a wee bit. then measure between left and right at the back of the tire then at the front. of course neither method is as accurate as a computer controlled unit. but keep in mind the computer controlled unit is only as good as it's operator. if you bang your truck around a lot then it can get knocked out often. alignments are expensive. i choose the cheap method 'cause i dislike to pay somebody to do something i can do myself (more $$$ for ice cold Coronas)
keep smilin............t
 






no.. it didnt lol if you adjust the toe like that the front wheels will not be in line with the rear wheels. right? idk.

could a bad ball joint cause this? i replaced the lowers in the past few years but cant recall changing the uppers. im still at a loss.. and today a new problem arose, my ps pump is whining. dont know if its the pump going out or old fluid + single digit weather. will have a peek at it tomorrow.

Another way to say this.. if (using the adjusters) you "turned both wheels slightly left" (one turn per adjuster).... and your steering wheel is already running a little left... then when you straiten the steering wheel the tires would be strait, yes? Or like saying after the adjustment you straiten the tires to point strait forward the wheel would be straiter, yes.

Or look at it this way... if the steering wheel is running left a little bit then we're getting the tires to match the wheel, but keeping the toe-in adjustment (by adjusting both adjusters ~exactly~ the same amount).

of course after adjusting, the front wheels still turn.. so straitening the front tires up (take it for a drive) will tell you if you adjusted enough (or too far).

This doesn't address Camber btw, just a steering wheel alignment trick.
 






b4 i took it to get aligned i set toe myself by measuring.. it looked straight to me, but when i took it to get aligned they said it was almost a full degree out. ive seen other explorers/rangers that sit like mine, still cant understand what exactly would make it happen. thanks for all the info and responses guys.
 






See, I am in the same boat. So today every explorer I saw I stopped and got out to look at it from the front. Every single one had the passenger front sticking out maybe an inch further then the back wheel. Everyone should go take a good look at the front of their trucks and see if they have similar results. Its not easy to notice but once you start noticing it you notice it all the time. I can for the life of me figure it out.
 






Well... I do recall hearing that a 4x4 needs the front wider than the back. dunno how true that is, but the J10 Heep I had was like that. If it wasn't 15 degress out, i'd get a tape measure and check mine, and hers too.
 






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