Running Board Problem | Ford Explorer Forums

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Running Board Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter bgclight
  • Start date Start date
B

bgclight

I have the 2008 Limited with the retractible running boards. One has started staying open (out) randomly. Each time I take it to the Ford Dealer (three times) it is in the proper closed position (naturally). They in turn open and close the door 100+ times and it works fine and they say we can not do any more until it stays open all the time! Right now it is open.

I am still in the Ford 36,000 mile warranty and I have the 100,000 extended warranty as well.

The dealer wanted to know if it does it more in hot or cold weather! We have been having an average temperature of 75 degrees at night and going up to 100 degrees in the daytime!

My old fashioned mechanical mind says tear it down and check the electric motor values and make sure every electrical connection and mechanical connection is solid. They do not seem willing to do that. I have an excellent record with the service manager and feel they have provided great service in the past. They wanted me to leave it all day and they will test it from time to time to see if the problem is there - dumb!

I know the folding running boards have been around a while. Anyone with similar problems or solutions? When it is stuck I even tried jumping on the running board - nothing.

Thanks, BGC
 



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Contact FoMoCo Customer Service! Years ago I had a new SHO and I had the same basic problem with the moonroof. Sometimes it would close for me, other times it wouldn't. I'd take it in and the dealer would say "works fine."

I got a "how we doing?" survey from Ford and I let them have it! I told them I had a new car with a $900 option that I was afraid to use! (Not good, having a hole in your roof in Seattle!)

One Friday night at about 8:00, I got a call from a CSR in Motown, asking me what the problem was. (I was pretty impressed ... they were calling me at 11:00 at night (their time) on a Friday night, no less!) I told him what was going on and he told me that I would hear from the dealer on Monday.

Sure enuff, Monday morning the Service Dept manager called me and asked me to bring the car in at my earliest convenience . . . They totally rebuilt the moonroof; new relays, new cables, etc. Problem solved!
 






Thanks

I laid it on my service manager this past week and he told me to bring it back in next week and they will tear into it! I think it is a loose wiring connection.

We will see. I will post any results.

BGC
 






Running Boards

Hey bgclight,

How'd the reapirs go? I have the same issue on my '07 EB and the dealer said to bring it in when it's happening and they will fix it. Of course, it never happens when I'm near the dealer.
One thing I noticed was that you could hear a solenoid clicking in a rhythmic pattern until it "unstuck". I have since cut them off and just don't use them. How 'bout an update on yours?

Thanks,

Brad
 






working

They have worked since the last time I took the car in. They lubricated everything.

When it was stuck I could hear the solenoid calling for the running board to retract.

It seemed that when the one side was stuck open I would back out of my drive which would slightly torque the body and it would unstick. It was always working by the time I got to the garage

My last word to the service manager was that I wanted him to completely tear into the mechanism and check all electrical values and connections and he had agreed. It has not stuck since!

I have 23,000 on the vehicle and I have the 100,000 mile 6 year warranty. We took delivery 20 months ago so they are with me for the whole 6 years. :-) I had my 98 for 10 years and maintained it perfectly. The dealer has even commented on how well I maintain the car.

They look out for me. I am waiting and will update this thread if I get a solution.

BGC
 






I have an 07 with these running boards, and mine are doing the same thing. They get stuck open. i can hear them trying to close but dont. And sometimes they work fine. There is noting in my manual, but does anyone have any documentation on how to lubricate theses? I assume they need it since it is moving parts.

Thanks
 






Running Boards

Mine continue to work O.K. The last time I took it to the dealer he said he lubricated them. I have never looked under the vehicle

I am still under the 36,000 warranty and will be for a long time as I have the 100,000 extended full warranty. When it happens again I will take it back to the dealer. I have 22,000 miles on the vehicle.:rolleyes:
 






I had the exact same problem with mine. The mechanism which moved the running boards inward or outward became corroded. Both complete running board assemblies were replaced and I found out that Ford is no longer paying for new assemblies. The Tech has to take it apart and only replace the the parts causing the problem.
 






Your service adviser gave you incorrect info. Ford does not offer replacement components for the steps. They have actually released a new part number for the step mechanism due to the issues that exist with the one's our Explorer's were built with.

After running the "we lubricated everything" route. I finally said the heck with this. I took the steps off and figured out what the problem is. The problem is from binding in certain pivot pins. Spray lubricate actually seems to make them bind more (after a short period of them working) The pivots are hardened pins that float in teflon lined bushings. Disassembly of the motor to step mechanism can actually damage these low quality bushings. One of ours came apart during this process. And NO the bushings aren't available.

These are the part numbers for the motor assembly (same both sides) and the mechanisms (side specific)

6L9Z16B478AA Motor
7L2Z16A507AA Left
7L2Z16A506AA Right

These assemblies are no longer available. I think Ford finally figured out they screwed up.

The new numbers are

9L2Z16A507AA Right (price is over 1000)
9L9Z16A507AA Motor (price is over 500)

I can't seem to find the number for the left side. Please check with the dealer before ordering any, just in case I screwed up a number.

Our Explorer now has simple FIXED side steps on it. I'm done screwing with the dealer.
 






I had the same problem on my '07 Eddie Bauer. After buying a replacement set I checked out the originals and figured out the problem. Inside the motor housing they used standard uncoated braided brush wiring. Polarity is simply reversed for up and down operation but the wire on the one side of the motor would short to the cover and so ground out so it would just stay up. Once down they always went up but intermittently they would just make a "doink" sound and not move when the door was opened. I coated the wires with "brush-on electrical tape in a can" which can be done without removal of the board (which is not fun) by removing the two cover screws. Be aware that the magnets are very powerful so be ready and hold the cover tight when removing or reinstalling. Ever since coating the brush wires they have worked flawlessly for several years now, often a dozen or more times everyday, in the snowy hills of West Virginia.
 






The problems with the automatic running boards on the Gen 4's were the reason ford never used them again. Now, it's regular running boards or none.
 






Oh no I just got a 07 Explorer Ltd and the drivers side was inop and I saw it was disconnected. I cleaned out both plugs and reconnected it now I just get the beep when I open and close the doors and interesting sometimes when driving down the street. I hope it isn't the motor because I looked online and could not find any ones new just one used on Ebay.
Is there a way to lower the step manually so I can see if there is any binding?
 






Leave them parked and disconnected or remove them all together and put aftermarket ones on. That what my son done to his. Look nicer and stainless tubes.
 






Wow, resurrecting the dead!!!
 






Took mines to a shop to replace manifolds (another common issue) and the tech/owner lubricated it and it now works. Funny a few weeks ago Ford said it was bad because the hinge points (forgot the name) were bad.
 






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